Boston Basin approach trail is snow-free to the lower camp around 5400'. The lower camp toilet is available, and snowfields around the Quien Sabe Glacier start around 6800' and the glacier has visible crevasse openings, rockfall from Boston Peak, and cracks likely to continue opening as the summer heat continues. One bear was active between the lower and upper camps, and we had one mountain goat hanging around lower camp.
On our hike in and out, Cascade River Road was still closed at the Eldorado Trailhead, adding around 2.5 miles of road walking each way to the approach. Biting black flies on the approach were fairly continual, we didn't bring bug spray, but would be recommended in the next few weeks. Once on the approach trail, the first mile is decent tread with overgrown shrubs, followed by steep, crumbly steps and veg belays, before reaching nicer trail again with a few switchbacks through the forest.
Sunday afternoon, July 24, the first three stream crossings were manageable with dry feet, but the final stream crossing immediately before the lower camp was challenging and would be impassible with higher water. With hot days July 25-26, we changed our plans to depart early on the 27th when water levels were about 1-2' lower than their peak flows to minimize the risk of being swept away. Hiking poles make the stream crossings much easier.
July 25, we traversed snow above high camp and climbed Aguille du I'M, which is a class 4 scramble below the West Ridge of Forbidden. The route and rappel station were in good condition.
July 26, we climbed Sahale from the Quien Sabe Glacier, leaving camp at 6:30 and summiting around 11am at a slow pace with many breaks. The rappel station only has one good rope sling, so consider bringing a backup to leave behind if needed. Soft snow allowed for plunge stepping until below major crevasses at 7200' and glissading or shoe-skiing from there down to the slab streams above low camp.
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