Climb of Mt Deception from Upper Royal Basin from April 24-25th 2026
PERMITS for overnighting in Upper Royal Basin were available over the phone with the ranger station (Port Angeles WIC).
ROAD in had loads of unavoidable potholes. We felt like bobbleheads as we flounced and jounced through a few miles of rough road, but made in a Kia Sportage. Was there a sedan at the trailhead? Yes. Did they have a good time? Questionable.
The trailhead outhouse was open and stocked with TP, although it looked like a little rodent had gone to town on some of the rolls.
TRAIL: The trail was in great shape with one blowdown to duck under. A few small random patches of snow appeared after 4,600', but things were mostly dry until Royal Lake. I put on microspikes at Royal Lake. From here, snow was patchy initially but became consistent soon enough. The lake was 70% snow-covered on Friday when we hiked in but had melted out completely when we left on Saturday!
There was a bootpath to follow to the Upper Basin. The Upper Basin was snow-covered, the tarns still frozen. We set up camp on snow with a view of our route up Mt. Deception - the intimidating-looking Honeymoon Couloir.
WATER: Lots of running water on trail, good streams at the lower meadow campsites and at Shelter Rock. The last running water was at 5,660' - just below the upper basin/tarns where there was a large hole in the snow over Royal Creek. Very exciting to not have to melt snow!
SUMMIT DAY: We got moving just around sunrise. Temps were cool this weekend, which was ideal for firm snow and stable conditions in the couloir (there was lots of old avy debris on route!).
We opted for the Honeymoon Couloir which looked to have great snow coverage, and while steep (maybe 50+ degree snow), was a lot more direct than the alternative route.
What was the Deception on this peak? Well, I'd say it looked deceptively close from camp!! The couloir climb felt like it took forever - I'd kick steps for a bit, and stop, and feel like I hadn't gained any ground whatsoever. The snow was a little icy in the morning, but the calves were definitely getting warmed up (or burning, really!!).
Anyway, we eventually gained the top of the couloir after a long while, and the last few hundred feet to the summit were easy breezy after Honeymooning. The summit was broad and open with stunning views everywhere, and we lounged and snacked for a while before we had to turn and make the inevitable downclimb.
Thankfully the snow had softened just a little bit mid-late morning, and it was easier to kick steps in on the way down. I took the downclimb real slow, and after what felt like an eternity, was able to turn around and walk like a semi-normal human. The plunge stepping was not the greatest, it was still too firm in areas and annoyingly post-holey in others.
Anyway, I wobbled my way back to camp, and we packed up our stuff and headed out in the afternoon on an uneventful (but felt very long) 8.5 mile exit. Glad to have made it up the second-highest peak in the Olympics - it was definitely a stunning one, and quite an adventure!
GEAR USED: Two ice axes, semi-automatic 12-pt crampons, mountaineering boots, helmet, microspikes, poles, comfy hikers for approach/exit. Brought snowshoes but didn't really need them. Wore them for a short way leaving camp just because I had them. Used radios to stay in touch with my crew because I knew they would be up and down the couloir much faster than I would.
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