Old Snowy Mountain - Elk Pass, Goat Lake, Snowgrass Flat, Goat Ridge, Ives Peak & Hawkeye Point — Thursday, Aug. 14, 2025

I've often heard that the Goat Rocks is one of the favorites of PCT hikers, but never quite understood why, so it was time to find out, and set off for a really enjoyable 3 day tour of the Goat Rocks Wilderness. 

Looking back, I think this area punches above it's weight ( based purely on the contours ) with wonderful meadows full of flowers, trails, campsites, gnarly peaks, and even some glaciers ( for now ).  Throw in being constantly supervised by 4+ volcanoes ( plus Goat Rocks itself ) and it makes for a special place.

TL;DR;

• Route
  • Snowgrass TH => Snowgrass Trail => Bypass => PCT to Cispus River
  • Off trail up to Cispus / McCall col, then...
  • Ridge scramble along to Ives Peak
  • High camp under Ives South summit basin ( Camp I )
  • Over Ives saddle, descent to PCT
  • PCT to Old Snowy
  • Along PCT Knife Edge to peak just before Elk Pass
  • Return back along the Knife Edge to Goat Lake ( Camp II )
  • Up Hawkeye Point, and exiting via Goat Ridge Trail
• Flowers: Probably post-peak, but still amazing in the basins, or areas with moisture
• Berries: Blueberries and Huckleberries down lower, but a bit off and on
• Critters: Marmots, Sparkies ( chipmunks ), usual bird-age
  • Reports of goats, but did not see
• People:
  • This area is popular, with backpackers, day hikers, and PCTers swimming both upstream and downstream
  • That said, it's a large area, so never felt crowded, and everyone super friendly and happy to be there
  • Goat Lake has maybe 15 sites, probably 80% full
  • Saw one ridge runner doing Old Snowy => Ives, but saw no one else beyond Old Snowy in the alpine
  • Really enjoyed hiking out with new friends M, and two other from Oregon
• Snow: Currently no required snow on route 
  • Lower PCT below Old Snowy (the traverse variant) had a very short section, that if needed could be bypassed below
    • Or just take the high variant
  • Near the end of Snowgrass trail, before ascending to Old Snowy there is a snow patch where it is easier taking a lower line to the end of tarn, or might be able to bypass even lower 
• Logistics: See section at end

WALKIE BITS

The main trails in this area are wide, fast, well maintained and fairly obvious.  Campsites and water fills are (currently) regularly available, except for the Old Snowy / Knife Edge portion.

Highlights:

• Snowgrass: Beautiful meadows and views
• Old Snowy PCT
  • Most folks seem to take the upper route ( no snow )
  • Lower route had a short bit of snow, and avoids the elevation
  • But at least do the upper route one way :)
• Old Snowy Peak:
  • Quick side trip from the PCT, to great views
  • Short bit of class 2 on solid rock with good holds
  • Classic bivy site on the top ( but windy! )
• PCT Knife Edge:
  • What a bit of spectacular trail!
    • As it weaves along the ridge north of Old Snowy
    • Who knew the PCT had more then gradual switchbacks :)
  • I took it as far as the peak before Elk Pass, before double dipping on the return
  • Trail is pretty safe, but there are drop-offs, and the day I was there the winds were pretty strong adding to the excitement.
• Hawkeye Point: Easy walk up, with great views
• Goat Ridge: Flower filled basins and fighting Marmots.
• Goat Lake: Popular camp spot, for good reason
  • WAG bags recommended
• Cispus Basin: Wow, what a gem of a basin, worth a side trip along the PCT. 

SCRAMBLY BITS

I left the PCT at Cispus River, and pointed upwards, below the glowering looks from Big Horn / Thumb.

Stopped to admire the expansive views at the Cispus / McCall Glacier col.

Continuing over Peak 7477 involved a short class 2 downclimb on teetering blocks. 

Set up camp in summit block basin south of Ives, on an established site at top of bluff with commanding view.

After a compulsory nap, headed up Ives:

• Since approaching from the South, went direct to the "thumb", then along to summit
  • Would give it a hard class 2, mostly because the rock is so unstable
• If coming from the north, you actually swing around to get onto the SW ridge, and looked steeper, but slightly better rock

After a spectacular sunset, and very windy night, packed up and headed over the high Ives saddle, then down the NW "ramp".

Once at the N col, had a decision to make:

• I looked at the 1km of side hilling loose rock on to Old Snowy...
• I looked down at the PCT with all the pretty Snowgrass meadows...
• Repeated above about 5 times, then rolled out my "Wheel of Excuses":
  • Full pack, old knees, wrong shoes, lazyness, etc...
  • And dropped talus down to the PCT
• Later saw a trail runner doing the ridge from Old Snowy south, good for her!

LOGISTICS

• Road: FS2100 is wide and graded which makes the non-stop washboards so tedious, but passible by all if keep speeds down
• Parking:
  • Snowgrass TH ~80% full on a sunny weekday
  • Assume need NW Forest Pass / America the Beautiful Pass
  • Trailhead toilet in great shape, clean and stocked
• Permits: Free / self issue at TH