We hiked the extended High Divide Loop clockwise, going over Appleton Pass and Spread Eagle Pass. The stretch from Appleton to Bruce’s Roost follows a primitive trail and was a real highlight—wild, quiet, and scenic. One of my favorite routes in the park so far.
Having recently done Dodger Point, it was fun to see the Bailey Range from the other side. The perspective really puts the terrain into context.
I’d recommend doing the loop clockwise. The section up to Spread Eagle Pass is narrow, rocky, and steep. It was a solid climb, but I wouldn’t have wanted to descend that way.
We camped at Swimming Bear Lake, which was absolutely beautiful. Amazing views of Mount Carrie, Cat Peak, and Olympus from camp. We saw several bears—some in the meadows below, and one higher up along a ridge. Marmots were everywhere, with constant whistles echoing through the basin.
Once back on the main High Divide Trail, the hiking got easier. There is no water until Deer Lake, so be sure to fill up at Swimming Bear unless you're okay with a steep .2 mile detour down to Heart Lake.
Comments
sea_outdr on Cat Basin Primitive, High Divide - Seven Lakes Basin Loop, Appleton Pass, Deer Lake, Sol Duc Falls, High Divide
Hey - I was just up at Appleton Pass last night. Did anyone on your trip lose a green stuff sack with cloths? I'm trying to reunite it with owner (longshot I know)
Posted by:
sea_outdr on Aug 02, 2025 03:38 PM
GoMegaMo on Cat Basin Primitive, High Divide - Seven Lakes Basin Loop, Appleton Pass, Deer Lake, Sol Duc Falls, High Divide
Howdy - We are not missing anything, but thank you for asking and picking that up!
Posted by:
GoMegaMo on Aug 02, 2025 06:56 PM
Bison Billy on Cat Basin Primitive, High Divide - Seven Lakes Basin Loop, Appleton Pass, Deer Lake, Sol Duc Falls, High Divide
If you are interested in camping at Swimming Bear Lk overnight, ONP backcountry permits restrict overnight camping at Swimming Bear to a max of 4 persons, total of all groups. As in one party of 4, or two parties of 2, etc. If you don't have a permit for Swimming Bear and camp there anyway, you risk being required by a backcountry ranger to move, or being cited for camping without a permit.
Posted by:
Bison Billy on Aug 04, 2025 07:29 PM
GoMegaMo on Cat Basin Primitive, High Divide - Seven Lakes Basin Loop, Appleton Pass, Deer Lake, Sol Duc Falls, High Divide
Hi, can you please point me to where this information is available? Thanks!
Posted by:
GoMegaMo on Aug 04, 2025 08:02 PM
Bison Billy on Cat Basin Primitive, High Divide - Seven Lakes Basin Loop, Appleton Pass, Deer Lake, Sol Duc Falls, High Divide
Sure, the Olympic Nat’l Park Wilderness Information Center, (360) 565-3100, if Swimming Bear Lk is requested as an overnight stay, will inform the caller as to whether permits are available, and inform the caller that a maximum of 4 persons total are allowed at the lake on any given night. Swimming Bear Lk is within the Seven Lakes Basin quota area and just like the rest of that area, camping is only permitted in designated campsites (no “wild” camping), and there are quotas for each designated site. All of Cat Basin is within the quota area. The same is true for the Grand Ridge/Grand Valley area, and the Royal Basin area as can be seen at the ONP Wilderness Trip Planning map https://www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/upload/OLYM-Wilderness-Trip-Planner.jpg
I’m sensitive about this issue as I had a permit 2 years ago for Swimming Bear, with 3 companions, and was told by the WIC to enjoy ourselves as we would be the only people there, no other permits being available. To our surprise, there were 20 other people there! Obviously, not one of them had a permit, which out of curiosity we confirmed with the WIC after our trip. The other backpackers were pleasant enough, but this is an alpine area which has already been significantly impacted by heavy use. The limits exist to help protect it from further degradation and it was very discouraging to see so many people camping without a permit. If that continues, I wouldn’t be surprised to see it closed to overnight use altogether. I was at nearby Appleton Pass last weekend and was heartened to encounter a backcountry ranger who had just patrolled thru the Swimming Bear area; I’m glad to see they are keeping a closer eye on it than they were the last time I was there.
Posted by:
Bison Billy on Aug 05, 2025 07:01 PM