I'm pretty sure there's a Fundamental Law of Life, "Days upon which you see more volcanoes on the trail than people (and safely return home) are by definition most excellent days."
Took the long trip up to the Tolmie Lookout (for those not paying attention, the road to Mowich Lake is closed for the season at the Paul Peak TH – saw a few cars drive to the closure only to turn around and drive back out again…) – Gaia clocked the day at 14 miles with 2483 ft elevation gain, but it was worth it (I did take the road back the entire way rather than using the Grindstone trail, which added about a mile to my day)!
Keep in mind there is snow/ rain in the forecast for this week, so the conditions described here will be changing.
The road to the Paul Peak TH is snow free and in excellent condition - for that road at least (a little washboarding, some potholes - especially past the park boundary, and the ever-present loose rocks but nowhere near as bad as I've seen in the past). Toilets were clean and well stocked with TP and hand sanitizer (ran into a Ranger checking up on them just as I was heading out – thank you again for your efforts!!).
While there were sections of the trails that were snow covered, there had been enough traffic on all of them that the trails were well packed and east to follow. Snow depth was also minimal - didn't seem to be anywhere that was higher than about 1.5 inches, and that was rare. I had gaiters with me, but never needed to put them on.
The walk on the closed road starts out snow free. A bit before the Grindstone Trail turnoff intermittent snow starts. As you continue it eventually become continuous, but never very deep. I didn't find anything on the road deeper than 0.5 inches, and most of it was 0.25 inches or less. The Grindstone Trail is lightly snow covered. There were some patches of ice, and a few more wet patches that are going to become icy with some more sustained cold temps. Nothing too treacherous (today at least).
The Wonderland Trail from Mowich Lake road to the turnoff for Eunice Lake/ Tolmie Lookout is mostly snow covered, if barely. From the turnoff for Eunice/ Tolmie to the switchbacks up to Eunice (about 1 mile) the trail only has intermittent snow, mostly just light dusting. As you hit the switchbacks the trail becomes completely snow covered but well packed and easy to follow. Snow depth at the side of the trail seemed to max out around 1 to 1.5 inches. On the way up to Tolmie Peak, where the trail is under tree canopy it is snowy (and well packed) but the exposed set of switchbacks with great views of Rainier and Mount Saint Helens is pretty much snow free.
I did use spikes for the snowy trail portions on the way down, but only because I am not the nimblest of foot and will take extra traction on snowy downhill when I can get it. The two other people (yes, only TWO) I saw on the trail didn’t have traction either time I saw them (they passed me on our way up to Eunice Lake and then I ran into them as they were coming down from the lookout). One of them did mention thinking they needed to put their spikes back on, but they were wearing Air Jordans so… yeah.
Overall, it was a great day. Views were incredible, and the general solitude made it that much more special.
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