Sahale Peak — Friday, Aug. 4, 2023

Sahale Glacier down to bare ice: Took my son and his friend to Sahale Peak, which I've done 4x before. Seasonal snow is basically gone on the lower glacier and we faced bare glacial ice at 30ish degrees with Yax Trax and microspikes (left side of image). We got up to the steep bit and decided our gear and the boys' inexperience created an unacceptable risk for us, so we backed off the glacier with me chopping some steps for them on the way down. Slush rivers got our shoes soaked. IMHO full crampons and maybe two axes are advisable at the moment, or maybe try further right than the normal line. Photo shows conditions. While we ate our lunch at the Sahale Arm camp we watched a bunch of large boulders tumble down the line we'd tried and most people take (left side of photo). Would be hard to dodge them if you were clinging to 25 degree ice when they come past. Perhaps another reason to consider the center line now? Went to Doubtful Lake instead. Still a lovely day. Will undoutedly return to this spot we love.