This is a fantastic hike, and it seems under-utilized and under-appreciated. I can't understand why it is not immensely more popular. I mean, seriously, a hike to a stunningly beautiful and geologically significant site, long enough to provide a workout and feeling of accomplishment, but short enough to be accessible to "non-serious" hikers. But, I suppose I should not be complainng.
I'll make a few notes here:
(1) First, know that there is an error in the directions on the WTA writeup of this site (unless it has been corrected as a result of this report). Heading east from I-5 on U.S. 12, Randle is MUCH farther than 17 miles. Randle is 17 miles east of US 12's intersection with WA State Route 7. Randle about 48 miles east of I-5.
(2) The Forest Service routes 25 and 99 are paved and not too bad, though there are sections that are rutty and potholed, and some very short sections (no more than 100-200 yards each) that are gravel. The posted speed is 35 mph in most sections, which should not be a problematic speed for most vehicles to maintain. But, in sunny conditions, be alert to sudden potholes that may be lurking in shadows and difficult to see until you are right upon them. Unfortunately, on our drive up, we got caught behind a 20-car convoy of Mini Coopers, evidently some sort of outing of a "Mini Cooper Club"; they were traveling annoyingly slow and while there are places on the route to pass 1 or 2 vehicles, it's impossible to pass 20 of them. I and my travel companions rejoiced when they all turned into an overlook, but this happened only after 45 minutes of a painfully slow ascent. Folks, if you drive slow and a line of cars is forming, show some self-awareness and courtesy: pull over to let them pass.
(3) As for the trail: Hiking in the Mt. St. Helen's blast zone is reminiscent of hiking in the desert, with full sun exposure the norm. Fortunately, however, in the mid-day sun there is an ample amount of shade along the first two-thirds of the Harmony Falls Trail on account of the fact that it hugs a north-facing slope and there is a good amount of shade-producing vegetation.
(4) There are sections of the trail that are being encroached by vegetation. Routefinding is never problematic, but there are portions where you'll be pushing your way through some leaves and such.
(5) The "grotto" about halfway down the trail provided a steady cold trickle of water that was great for cooling off. I also drank a few sips without treating it (I know, a "no no", but with no ill effects).
(6) Do beware that there are some sections of the trail where the downslope portion of the trail's width is unstable; on one occasion, my right foot "punched through" the dusty and unstable trail; stay to the "upslope" half of the trail's width when possible.
(7) On a beautiful July Saturday afternoon, we encountered one couple hiking up the trail during our descent; one solo female hiker at the lakeshore, and one solo male hiker descending as we were ascending.
(8) My Fitbit recorded 2.55 miles round trip including some lakeshore exploration, 6460 steps, 669 calories burned. Hike start time: 12:31 PM, arrival at lakeshore 1:03 PM (32 minutes down). Departed lakeshore 1:20 PM, arrival at car 1:57 PM (37 minutes up). My hiking party was three generally fit people in their 50s, and a dog.
(8) I'd suggest the USFS to rename this hike "Spirit Lake Hike" instead of "Harmony Falls Hike". Not realizing it was not called "Spirit Lake Hike" made it a little more difficult than it should have been to seek info on this hike when I was looking into it.
Anyway, ENJOY!

Comments
DK1998 on Harmony Falls
I'm not sure if you're aware or not, but the reason why it's called the Harmony Falls trail is because it takes you to a point on Spirit Lake that's above where Harmony Falls and the Harmony Falls Lodge used to be prior to the 1980 eruption. Both were major landmarks on the lake. The eruption destroyed both and raised the level of Spirit Lake. The old location of Harmony Falls and its namesake lodge is now deep underwater. The trail is named in memory of what once was.
Posted by:
DK1998 on Jul 15, 2023 10:50 PM
VentureBold on Harmony Falls
I just learned of this trail on "Mt. St. Helens before 1980" FB page. I'm so excited to hike it this summer. Thank you for a great post!
Posted by:
VentureBold on Feb 17, 2024 01:06 PM