The PCT north of Chinook Pass may have become my favorite summer flower hike. We hiked from the pass north to Arch Rock and back and saw over 70 different flowering species in bloom. Overall the trail is not very strenuous as it starts at high elevation and remains there with only moderate elevation gain and loss. There are sections of steep exposed slopes and gorgeous views into all directions as the trail winds along the ridges leading north. We stayed overnight in Lake Basin which has reliable water and rich flower meadows including slender bog orchid and elephant head lousewort growing along the spring.
North of Lake Basin the trail leads through many sections of burned forest, east and west of the crest, and is in places rocky and exposed. There is a stretch of seven miles between Crow Basin and Arch Rock without reliable drinking water source, so bring an extra bottle and fill up. The last few miles towards Arch Rock wind through burned forest with a thick grass cover, though in some places where the fire burned very hot, no vegetation has recovered even years after the fire. Peaking through the dead silvery trees are Mt. Steward and the tall peaks of the Alpine Lakes wilderness to the north.
If you want to replace the throng of PCT southbound through-hikers with a herd of Rocky Mountain elk, hike the Lake Basin trail south in the morning to reconnect with the PCT at Crown Point. There are two tarns in Cement Basin that a herd of 20 elk use to wallow and stampede around. In some places the trail is hard to follow because of all the elk social trails. Further south it crosses two sketchy raveling ravines that make the use of hiking poles very welcome. You can also find the endemic Rainiera stricta growing along this trail. This lush green leafy plant is only found on the volcanic slopes east of Mt Rainier and was ready to burst into flower when we passed it on the Fourth of July. Good luck seeing the orange flowers soon.
Back at Sheep Lake, the mosquitoes had a feast, but the water was refreshing, and an easy trail leads back to Chinook Pass. Overall an excellent ridge hike with wildflowers and gorgeous views. If you hike too fast you may miss out on the botanical riches of the central Cascades.
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