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Trip Report

Eldorado Peak — Saturday, Sep. 21, 2019

North Cascades > North Cascades Highway - Hwy 20
the gully going down into Roush Basin

Climbed Eldorado via the East Ridge approach. Trail was in good shape up to the ridge you have to cross over to get to the Roush Basin area. Plenty of cairns, route-finding was mostly not too difficult, except when clouds blew in and obscured the area.  No snow anywhere on or near the trail until in the Roush Basin, looking up at the Eldorado Glacier.

Glacier was opened up, and a person in a party ahead of us punched through to her waist when she wandered off the beaten path. Would exercise extreme caution on the Eldorado Glacier, as there were numerous large crevasses scattered all over the approach area, and a smaller number of hidden ones + the occasional snowbridge to cross.

Once at the glacier camp and on the Inspiration Glacier, crevasses danger was minimal, and the boot path in the snow was clear and easy to follow all the way up.

The knife ridge is indeed as airy and exposed as everyone says, and while most roped up for it, I didn't. If you choose not to, I do recommend having a walking stick AND an ice axe to balance and anchor yourself with, as a fall from up there would not end well.

The summit itself was surprisingly roomy, and exposed rocks in a cluster at the west end of the ridge provided enough space for 4-5 people to comfortably sit.

Was a much cloudier day than we would have liked, and photo opportunities were at a minimum, but what we could see was stunning, and all things considered wasn't too terrible of an approach either.

Would definitely recommend... as long as you don't suffer from vertigo.

Left car at 6:30 am, returned 8:44 pm.

Klawatti Peak, Tepeh Towers, Oliphant Tower, and the Inspiration Glacier, from Eldorado Glacier
Approaching the Eldorado summit block
Cloud rainbow over the knife ridge on Eldorado's summit
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