McGregor Mountain Hike
After camping at Howard Lake (formerly Coon Lake), and a brief setback with the trail on the map (I was using OpenTopo) versus the real trail, we skirted around Howard lake and began the long ascent up the McGregor Mountain Trail. As it turned out both Sho (my hiking partner) and I had a trail drawn on our maps that did not match the actual trail. The trail on the map indicated it was right next to the lake, on the edge of the eastern shore. The reality is that the trail is a very well maintained path that is farther east than shown on the map. For those accessing the trail directly from the PCT, just follow the sign off the trail that points to McGregor and stay on the trail.
We started the hike around 10:00am at about 2240 feet from Howard Lake. The fall air was crisp, the sky was clear, and we quickly made it to a nice lunch spot at 3600 feet. Angus Peak, Glacier Peak, the glaciated face of Dome Peak, and the Angus River Gorge were on display from this vantage point. It should be noted that there was a nice spot for a tent (possibly two) here. As Sho and I were eating a snack, two girls came hiking up the trail. Asia (from Poland) and Niko (from Czech Republic) were section hiking Washington State and were filming a scripted movie along the way. We chatted for a bit and they told us they planned on spending the night at a much higher elevation before attempting the summit.
At 5520 feet, we arrived at Coon Creek (maybe called Howard Creek on some maps?) and exchanged our treated lake water for the cool clear fresh mountain water from the creek. It was also a great opportunity to freshen up a bit, wash my shirt, and soak in some rays. From this vantage point, Glacier Peak could still be seen rising out of the southern horizon. After our respite, we climbed to 6000 feet where the larch trees began to change their color from pine green to a brilliant yellow. At this altitude, the larches were joined with small pine tress as well as subalpine firs. By 7100 feet, we had hit the timberline, and shortly after the McGregor Mountain Trail ended at a talus field.
After spotting a granite bolder about halfway up the field with a large red arrow painted on the face, we began to pick our way up in its direction. It pointed us farther up, where we negotiated our way up the talus to the base of the large rock faces that comprise the top of the mountain. Here, we were confronted by another painted red arrow urging us to the right up a small footpath. This arrow was followed by another, then another, and another over and over again. The rock scrambling was not difficult; I'd estimate it to be class 4 level, but the exposure on the rock faces as we ascended was very real. As we went up, we occasionally placed cairns to aid in our route-finding on the descent. After going up and over a small notch in the north ridge, we finally saw the northern side of the mountain and a pristine snowfield stretched out below.
A few minutes later we were standing on the summit, where once upon a time in the 1950s an old fire lookout once stood. All that remains now is the flattened foundation, a few melted pieces of glass, and some heavy gauge wire. It was 4:15pm when we reached the top (also now occupied by a radio communication tower). We enjoyed the breathtaking 360 degree panorama of the rugged cascade skyline for a half hour before starting back down.
At 6700 feet, we found the Heaton campsite where Asia and Niko had set up their tent. They were surrounded by eye-popping yellow larches on a cliff looking out toward Glacier Peak. It was an awesome camp site. We talked and relayed a bunch of beta on the summit climb they were going to attempt at sunrise, and then headed down.
At 5680 feet, we crossed the upper portion of dry Coon Creek, refilled our water at 5520 feet, and watched the sun set as we hiked. We clicked on the headlamp when it became dark, and made it back to Howard Lake around 8:30. Our total trip time from Howard Lake and back was 9.5 hours, and I estimated we had about 2.5 hours of stoppage time. I left a note for the girls on the summit... I hope they made it the next day!
Trip Info (Note my barometric altimeter is +- 60 feet):
Total Trip time, from Howard Lake and back: 9.5 hours
First Campsite/Lookout: 3600 feet (it looked like there could be another potential site about 80 feet higher than this location)
Water at Coon Creek: 5520 feet
Coon Creek Dry Crossing: 5860 feet
Larch Trees: 6000 feet
Camp Heaton: 6700 feet
Timberline: 7100 feet
A helmet would have been a good idea for the summit scramble. I don't think a rope would have been helpful (but always nice to have for emergencies). The red indicator arrows were very helpful, but will need to be repainted soon.
Other Questions:
It the radio tower a USFS repeater?
What is with all the heavy guage wire running from the summit down through the talus field? Lightning protection?
Why is it named McGregor?
What is the story on the old fire lookout?
I did this as a side hike while thru-hiking the PCT. Most folks will take a day to get here from Stehekin via boat, a day to climb and camp, and a day go out from Stehekin, requiring a total of three days.
UPDATE: Lots of good info about the lookout here:
http://willhiteweb.com/washington_fire_lookouts/mcgregor_mountain_trail/fire_lookout_237.htm
Comments
shoshasta on McGregor Mountain Trail
I’d like to report my face as inappropriate content ;)
But a very nice write-up nonetheless, sir.
Posted by:
shoshasta on Oct 05, 2018 06:05 PM
Lisa P. on McGregor Mountain Trail
You’ve asked the same questions that I would have asked. Always curious about these little details on hikes. Thank you for the awesome trip report!
Posted by:
Lisa P. on Oct 11, 2020 11:58 AM
edeplace on McGregor Mountain Trail
Great trip report, but the route here is incorrectly labelled. The "notch to the snow" is climber's left of that cone. It is *not* between the cone and the summit. This is shown correctly on the NPS website and on some other trip reports.
Posted by:
edeplace on Aug 03, 2025 11:09 AM