Overall, conditions are great for late Spring.
Do your best to find the trail ASAP after the river crossing (sign post) to save yourself bushwhacking hassle. Begin to climb.
As of writing, snow is about halfway up the boulder field(s). Cairns help a LOT with navigation, though just "go up" won't steer you wrong either.
When snow begins, attempt to stay on rock for as long as possible as snow is mushy, covering holes, moats, and the like.
Once over treeline "ridge" (after waterfalls), the terrain settles, if only slightly, and the snow is in better shape, comparatively speaking.
Either ascend to the 6,150' notch a bit below it (likely boot path) or opt to go just above and slope left (west) to the notch.
There are a few options here. Both involves a bit of scramble/climbing at the bottom. The snow has melted a 20-30ft section at the bottom of the typical notch, but there is less snow gap slightly further south (look for former camping spot/trench on ridge). Be very careful a slip wherever downclimbing could be nasty.
Enter the Roush Basin! Climb more. Reaching the terminus of Eldo Glacier can be taken right bearer ridge or left around ever-growing gully.
Traverse Eldo Glacier to lower East ridge where there are ample bivy sites.
Camp out, nap, or head up. It's about an hour to an hour and a half to summit from accessing east ridge. Stay far left (south) on east ridge to avoid opening cracks and crevasses. Boot path SHOULD be evident and well from harm.
Stand atop the world (if only for a moment)then do it all again in reverse.. (end of Eldorado Peak report)
OR head down to base of east ridge and traverse the Inspiration Glacier to 8,000" Klawatti Col. Pick to ascend Klawatti Peak or head westerly to the McAllister Glacier (watch for ice/rock fall) to the Klawatti-Austera Col. Be warned, there is a large moat forming here. I searched for a "safe" crossing and marked my path quite well to aid others. Required the least downclimbing and exposed rock travel.
Traverse the Klawatti Glacier to Austera Peak (like moi) or head down the east ridge of Austera and round the bend up to Primus (have fun with that lol).
Glaciers are all in great condition currently.
Enjoy this absolutely majestic land!
Time up: 6 hours (moving, 45min rest/food) up.
Time down: 3.75 hours down. Anticipate longer for both if you haven't been here before.
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