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Trip Report

Sloan Peak, Bedal Basin — Saturday, Jun. 17, 2017

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
Sloan from south side. If you take Corkscrew route you are never down here
Summitted Sloan Peak via Bedal Creek trail! We ascended around the south side of Sloan as described in SummitPost and then connected into the Corkscrew route. GPX tracks are linked below. 16 hours total. The south side ramp connecting to the Corkscrew route is TECHNICAL (that's what ate up the time). Very steep slopes with a cliff close at the bottom, so had to protect with pickets and belay across. After on corkscrew route isn't too bad but there's still one slope you'll want to use pickets on. I'll update this with more detailed info sometime in the future.
Epic views from south side
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Comments

greyghostnw on Sloan Peak, Bedal Basin

i went up solo yesterday and came down today from the same route although i did not make it up the SE ramp any further than perhaps 10 feet. decided without a rope and or another person there no to ascend in the current condition of toungue of snow to ramp. the rock available is more round at bottom and i could have climbed up but not so easy down. the snow currently is pulling from rock with a gap under for as far as i could see so if a mistake is made your in for trouble. the toungue will collapse shortly as when i tried getting on it it made sounds of such and maybe 20' below the top of toungue it had signs as well of doing so. there was one position to get off snow to rock and inspect but decided the risk was not worth it. until another day..... was bummed to turn back over perhaps 30' of the ramp. i would reccomend having a rope and or another person if attempting due to gap in rock and snow at the bottom.

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greyghostnw on Jul 15, 2017 04:17 PM