Sol Duc Falls, Deer Lake, Bogachiel Peak & High Divide - Seven Lakes Basin Loop — Friday, Nov. 28, 2014

Olympic Peninsula > Northern Coast

We set off for the High Divide Loop on Friday the 28th after obtaining our permits at the Port Angeles WIC. We discussed conditions with the ranger, who dismissed my idea that there may be significant snow at higher elevations. Therefore, we left our snowshoes in the car and set off around 12:30pm. We were well prepared for adverse conditions, anticipating snowfall overnight with significant wind and very cold weather over the weekend- leading to 50 lb packs each. With my bum knee, we took it slow and only made it to Deer Lake before it was close to sunset- sunset comes early this time of year. Some of the stream crossings were very difficult to manage without wet boots- we didn't want to start out 3 very cold days with frozen wet boots so we went up/downstream to find better crossings- in particular near Canyon Campsite #2. We only saw one person once we passed Sol Duc falls- he was headed up fast in sneakers and a lightweight overnight pack. We worried he was underprepared. There were a few patches of frost and snow starting at the Canyon Creek bridge before Deer Lake and true snow at Deer Lake- about 3-4". We decided to set up in the "group campsite" overlooking the lake with easy access to water from stream. We saw a headlamp moving along the other side of the lake late that night and decided it was someone hiking out as they didn't return. Overnight it snowed an additional 6" and was quite windy. We woke up with lots of snow surrounding our tent and blocking the door. We were glad to have a proper 4 season tent! It was 17 degrees when we woke that morning. We packed up and set off to continue our loop under mixed skies- flurries of snow and dark clouds alternating with bright sunshine. There were no footprints in the snow and we luxuriated in the beautiful winter wonderland as we headed towards the "Potholes" meadows above Deer Lake. The same hiker passed us again- he had reached Lunch Lake and bailed to sleep in his car because the conditions were too much for his 3 season gear, unfortunately losing his ice axe which he was returning to find that day. We followed his tracks in the snow past the potholes and up the ridgeline. In many places the powdery snow was now knee deep and difficult to navigate. We continued the traverse up up up and around past the junction to the High Lakes and on to the High Divide Trail. The trail traverses around Mt Bogachiel. The powdery snow was thigh deep and would not hold steps. I lost my footing once and almost fell. This is an area where an ice axe would be handy... IF the snow wasn't loose powder. We were almost to the 5100 elevation pass when we decided it would be safer to bail than to risk a fall that we could not arrest. We regretfully turned around- it's easy to second guess a decision like that, but safety wins! Some of the way back was extremely windy- all our footprints had disappeared in the snow. Our weather station read ambient temps around 11F and with windchill, about -5F. We had enough time to reach the Potholes just as dark was falling and set up camp. It was 9F degrees at 6pm and our fingers and toes were getting cold. Our water filter had frozen over the day so we had to melt lots of snow to make water. We were grateful for our 4 season tent, 2 person sleeping bag and a homemade overbag. We kept our light insulated jackets, hats, gloves and down booties on and were quite cozy over the long night. The hike out was uneventful other than being a little sad we had to turn around rather than complete the loop. The scenery was stunning- a gorgeous clear and cold day. It was warmer today, about 15F when we started hiking at 10am. Navigating the trail was easy as our footsteps were still in the snow- it had not been very windy that night. We noticed that Deer Lake was now mostly frozen over, it had been free flowing on Friday. Below Deer Lake the snow cover was significantly more than it had been on the hike in. By Canyon Creek Camp #3 there was significant ice alternating with wet or snowy trail. Not everything was frozen, thankfully. The creek crossings that were difficult on Friday were now easy, and some of the were even dry! What a difference 2 days makes! Sol Duc Falls bridge was extremely icy and dangerous. I put on my microspikes for the first time this trip, only to find that the ice was so solid that my spikes could not bite into it. We gingerly crossed the bridge and hiked the 3/4 miles to our car. We found the parking lot empty except for our car and a note on the dashboard. Sol Duc road had been closed the day before. This explained why we didn't see anyone even on the falls trail. Just outside the parking lot a ranger was waiting for us- to make sure we hiked out safely that day. The road wasn't too bad- certainly icy in places but no more than 2-3" of snow. We were grateful for the rangers looking out for us and our vehicle. Once we got home I checked the national park website, it does not list the sol duc closure.

More Information on this Trip Report

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