My annual pilgrimage to this iconic hike.
The air was extraordinarily OK. The views were crisp and clear, and while you could see the fires to the East and West, it wasn't the kind of smoke or haze that lay heavy on your heart. There was enough clean air and views-for-miles in other directions that it felt almost normal - I was truly shocked, given the smoke maps and reports from other trails I'd been seeing. Shocked, and so, so grateful.
I started walking a little before 6am. I was scared driving up because mysterious light kept glinting off my rear-view mirror around the turns, and I thought I was being followed by a ghost car. Turned out to be a ginormous full moon, shining terribly brightly all over the Mountain. Glorious to start the hike out with the Mountain shining brightly in moonlight.
I hit 1st Burroughs along with the sunrise, and met a few people coming down who'd been up early to catch it at 2nd Burroughs. After that I met no one except for a couple at 2nd Burroughs who'd just gotten engaged (so delightful!) and a couple at 3rd Burroughs who I passed coming down because they stopped to ogle a (very fat, bushy, and fearless) marmot - turns out they were from Scotland, recently transplanted to the PNW, and had never seen one before. They were giddy at the sighting and I checked my privilege at having seen quite a few in my day.....
Lots of people coming up as I was coming down - it felt busy but not overrun, and still had space for quiet. This hike.....you can be in total solitude in the morning, with the entire park stretched out before you and feel like you're the only one in it, and on the way back it's a veritable UN of tourists and travelers, hardcore hikers and low-key walkers.
There was a circle (flock? pack? gaggle?) of goats on a plateau between 1st Burroughs, Frozen Lake, and Fremont - more than I'd ever seen on this hike before!
At 3rd Burroughs the glaciers were making lots of stomach-rumbling noises, but I didn't see an avalanche activity.
Comparing this set of photos to ones I took 35 years ago, I am again shocked at the glacier loss. It's beautiful and terrible to look down from 3rd Burroughs at the landscape laid bare, clearly carved by ice that I can still remember from when I was a kid.
If you've done the hike - it's still here, it's still great, just try and avoid the crowds. If you've not done this hike - it's special, and don't worry about joining the crowds, because everyone should have access to this majesty.
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