Conditions at Waptus were smoky but tolerable. We camped on the north side, where there were many vacant sites.
When fording the Waptus River, the water came up to my shins (I'm 6'2). It was not especially cold, and the current wasn't strong. The rocks are a bit slippery, though, so sandals wouldn't hurt. We did it barefoot, relying on our poles for balance.
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