The road back (North Shore all the way from 101) is passable, but really not suitable for low slung passenger vehicles. You can make it (we saw a Prius at the trailhead) but you should be prepared for it to take you about an hour from 101 back to Graves Creek.
The trail itself is overall in good condition. We hiked from the Trailhead to Fire Creek (about 4 miles, 8 mi RT). The first 2.5 miles to pony bridge has more climbing than expected and ranges from flat and wide (we said "we can bring our parents--in their 70s--here!" to rocky and difficult ("no way they could make it). It isn't terribly difficult, but also isn't a casual hike. There are parts of this first segment that are very beautiful, and others that are less so. The real action begins once you reach the Quinault and the trail parallels the river. As a day hike, this section made it all worthwile, really beautiful rain forest and the sounds of the river next to you. We saw several large groups (5-8 people), mostly on multi-day overnight hikes, and also saw three rangers out there. Overall I wish we had had more time to go further up the river valley, the brief sampling we got made me wonder how it could get better!
There were bugs but they were not very annoying, and I didn't get any bites. You are mostly shaded, though a few spots along the river got sun when it was out. Plenty of spots to stop and have a snack or a look at the beauty.
Everyone was talking about how even north shore road will be closed by Jefferson County starting July 7, which will make access to this trail head far more difficult (no one we talked to knew what the plan was going to be).
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