Leaving from the shared trail head I have always turned right for Lake Ingalls at the first fork, but on this trip we stayed straight to explore the trail up to Esmeralda Basin and Lake Ann. Lake Ingalls is for sure the star of the show here but Esmeralda, as the name suggests, is a gem in its own right.
The forest road is in decent shape some mild wash-boarding and a few sections with gotcha potholes to watch out for. With all the left fork right fork business in the directions, best to study a map before you set off so you are not backing up trying to figure out if you took the correct road, ask me how I know. Main lot was pretty much full at 10:00 when we arrived (on this federal holiday), and same when when we left, so we took the first road side spot - no biggie lots of space there. Out house clean but no supplies, wanted poster for Travis Decker in the permits box, which now has a pen. It's a long way up the Teanaway valley to the start of your hike so extra snacks and drink will for sure make your day go better.
The first trail section is mostly clinker rock - consider it a homage to the miners' track it once was. After the Ingalls turn off there are still multiple rocky sections, but eventually those ease a bit as you make your way up the basin. The water course crossings are fun, each one is a mini flower garden so pause and enjoy. I did get out my poles for the first "bigger" one which is quite wide with snow melt, but everyone kept their feet dry. There was only just enough shade here to keep the climb comfortable on a not that hot day, so I would not like to hike here mid summer. I enjoyed the lazy switch backs in the mile before the Lake Ann turn off as the views to the peaks really started to open up. At the Lake Ann junction it's a good idea to mentally switch gears. You are now above 5000 feet and that makes climbing that much harder. The tread which up to now had been rough, but manageable, also deteriorates to a rock fest. With the exception of the middle breather break in the heather meadow, where you will still find a couple of snow patches, it's now all about the grind. For a finale the trail steepens again right before you attain the pass, which nicely accentuates the grand reveal reward of turquoise blue Lake Ann, nestled on the shoulder of Ingalls peak, and the wide panorama of a who's who of the Alpine Lakes wilderness mountains. You have to know it's all worth it. We explored the pass area and decided that lunch on the ridge, with the breeze and view (no bugs), was a better option than dropping down to the lake. Lots of evidence of goats, but no sightings. The view across the valley is immense and with the range of peaks at the edge you really feel you can fully understand the meaning of wilderness. After the climb the late lunch tasted great and we were in no hurry to start back down.
Returning was all about enjoying the views across to Esmeralda Peak with special guest appearance by Mount Rainier. We stopped to say hi to renowned trip reporter "Maddy" and family. Always fun to meet other WTA contributors IRL, and I appreciate their contributions. The Lake Ann trail down does demand your attention and poles were very helpful. So take your time and enjoy all the creek side flowers gardens again. So many different flower species and some I have not seen before, plus a Western Tanager - like a Christmas decoration in the trees.
A great time of year to hike here, but with 8 plus miles and 2000+ feet of gain on some challenging tread a little extra preparation will go along way to making this trail enjoyable.

Comments
Lisa E on Esmeralda Basin (Esmerelda), Lake Ann
Could you tell if Lake Ann had camping sites that were dry
Posted by:
Lisa E on Jun 20, 2025 09:17 PM
Hikeswith3 on Esmeralda Basin (Esmerelda), Lake Ann
We didn't go down to the lake and this was our first time so I'm not sure even from the pictures. Other trip reporters went down to the lake so you could try asking them for better in put.
Posted by:
Hikeswith3 on Jun 21, 2025 12:49 PM