Trails were in excellent shape. On the Flapjack Lakes section, regular treefall but nothing insurmountable or sketchy. And overall a beautiful hike, but I wish I'd saved it for later in the season as the grade was really too steep. Don't let that stop you! But this was only my second backpacking trip of the year and it would have been more enjoyable had I waited a while.
We camped at Spike Camp the first night. Small camp right on the North Fork Skokomish with bear wire and a spanking new privy. Many a woodpecker and sapsucker flit around as we enjoyed some mysterious thrumming from the forest beyond. We suspect this was an owl living in one of the trees on the section of the Flapjack Lakes trail above camp. We had camp to ourselves otherwise. We did make a pitstop at Slide Camp on the way up and if you want a more scenic camp that puts you right on the river, it's a lovely one, though unsure about bear wire or privies there. EDITED TO ADD: On Sunday evening, at Spike Camp, we, too, found a fire that had not been completely put out. Hard not to wonder if the same parties failed to do so a couple days later at Camp Pleasant per this recent report: https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trip-reports/trip_report-2025-06-17.200811110362
Monday was the noted slog up to Flapjack Lakes. Salal, huckleberry, and thimbleberry in bloom or forming fruits abounded on the way up. No snow on the trail but visible pockets on a few slopes and gullies as we ascended. Trail itself was dry. A previous trip report mentioned many mini-waterfalls past Madeline Creek but we did not see them on our outing. We passed a few backpackers headed home on our way up and a handful of dayhikers, most of whom turned around near Donohue Creek. Once at camp, only three other sets of campers, spread out around the lake, and we tucked in to site above the lake closest to Mt. Gladys.
A few practical notes: signs in the (newly built) privies asking that campers poop only, and cleverly built to prevent men, at least, from doing so. The isthmus: GAIA makes it look like there might be a way to cross, but the creek/waterfall separating the two lakes prevents that. You'll need to hike counterclockwise around the lake on the right to reach additional campsites and the group site. Mosquitos were mildly annoying Monday night but perhaps the cooler Tuesday temperatures rendered them almost absent.
We remained in camp on Tuesday and after moving to a slightly nicer campsite that was vacated that morning, my hiking companion checked out Gladys Divide. He expected snow on the trail up to the summit but was only able to hike about halfway along the divide as snow remains, including what he described as a narrow, icy looking section that he did not want to risk crossing.
More sapsuckers and woodpeckers were seen and heard, as well as a solo bald eagle and later a solo osprey making brief patrols over the lakes. Rain overnight on Tuesday thankfully finished up by morning. I think trekking poles are always a necessity for the grades here, and was especially glad to have them for the trip down.
Despite the popularity of Staircase (and the lack of parking - we could find no space and the ranger told my hiking companion to just park where ever he could find space that didn't block anyone else) there is no transit service to this area and at present the closest bus stop is miles away near the Lake Cushman Maintenance co along the main road, and its shoulders too narrow or non-existent to try closing those miles via bicycle. A girl can and will dream.
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