Thursday: Left Tacoma at 6am. Predicted holiday travel by Google did not materialize. Road leading to the TH has a good amount of pot holes, so a high clearance vehicle is recommended. Arrived to TH at 9:30am. Camped at the Mackinaw Shelter at 1:30pm, which is a ruined pile of wood. This camping area is very large, protected from the sun by trees, and along the N Fork Sauk river for water. Water streams are plentiful between the TH and Marmot Knob.
Friday: Left the Mackinaw Shelter at 6am. Hiked uphill in the cool morning shadow of the valley. Reached White Pass at 9:30am. Failed to follow the downloaded route which we realized was most likely a winter skiing route from Summit Post. Followed the boot path along the normal route instead. We were confused with beta to go “left at Marmot Knob” mistakenly thinking a shortcut existed to the left of Marmot Knob, potentially eliminating a mile from the traditional route. This is not the case. This beta relates to snow on the hill leading to and from Glacier Gap Basin at 6,600’. On the approach to the climbers right is a traverse that goes straight across to then ascend via a steep scramble. To the climber's left is an easier diagonal ascent upwards. We made camp on the snow at 6,800’ in the Glacier Gap Basin at 3pm. Water can be found in several small snow melted streams at Glacier Gap Basin.
Saturday: Due to the heat, we broke camp at 2am to arrive at the summit by 9am. Arrived at the ridge line by 7:30am. We witnessed rock fall on the Cool Glacier while ascending. The snow on the glaciers was firm during the ascent, and the final 300’ approach was ice as it was still in the shadow of the summit. This final approach has a defined boot path, but due to plunge steps on descents it is more difficult on the ascent. Be comfortable with your crampons to step on the 40 degree slope if need be on this hard ice. Deep previously made holes in the ice can be used for stability with the ice axe shaft. At least for that morning we believed if a slide should occur the ice was just soft enough for the pick to get purchase, but it still would have been a fight to get control during a potentially long slide with potentially serious consequences.
We descended the glaciers between 11am and noon. At this point the snow became mashed potatoes. Also, it was observed that cracks surround the main booth path on the Cool Glacier. The wide snow bridges held, but we were plunge stepping deeply into the snow. A bergschrund is opening at the top of the Cool Glacier, several cracks are opening along the Cool Glacier far away from the booth path, and several cracks are opening at the turn between the glaciers. Depending what boot path you follow, one path is over a narrow snow bridge at this bend as you get on the Cool Glacier. Be observant.
The last source of flowing water for the summit approach is slightly above Glacier Gap camp approximately at 7,200’.
Sunday: When we descended the trail between White Pass and Marmot Knob a snow bridge completely melted out across a creek between Friday and Sunday. So, take this report with a warning that the heat is rapidly changing conditions on the mountain.
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