I hiked the Kettle Crest Trail #13 end to end to end, starting at the north trailhead, traversing to the south end (White Mountain) and returning.
I spent the night before at Deer Creek Forest Camp, located just across the road from the Kettle Crest North TH. It's on a paved road and an easy, quick drive from Curlew. The 2015 Stickpin fire ravaged the area, but the camp has been recently refurbished with gravel, picnic tables, and a satisfactory pit toilet. There were no bugs and a pleasant, smoky glow on the horizon as I turned in.
I started at 4:20 a.m. from the north TH. The fireweed in the first 9-10 miles was thick and brilliant, the dead tree trunks radiant, the trail meandering. My sunrise introduction to the Kettle Crest was glorious. There was evidence of recent trail work—fresh wood shavings—almost immediately, and the trail remained amazingly well maintained (especially considering its remoteness) for the whole the route. I counted only two small blowdowns for the entirety of the trip!
Between the North TH and the first edge of the crest (around mile 10) there were a few brushy sections (mostly fireweed) that were slightly annoying but only prohibitive if you are hoping to be speedy. There was one rushing stream around mile 5 and a few dribbles after, but the first true spring materialized at mile 15-ish.
After the first spring (I think Neff Spring?) the terrain was greener and less recently burned. The trail here was also quite clean and gentle. For all of this section the trail offered sweeping and spectacular (albeit smoky) views of Ferry County. After the gentle, post-spring traverse, the route ascends Copper Butte, the high point (yes, there was a joint stashed with the summit register in a tin can). This was a bit of a rocky grind, but the views from the top, looking east, were spectacular.
After Copper, the trail was rolling through some unburned and shady forest. The next reliable spring appeared just past a camp around mile 23 (from the N TH). From there, I descended, climbed, then descended agin to the least scenic section: the Highway 20 crossing/Sherman Pass. Here the dust gets thick and billowy and there are some annoyingly designed switchbacks and an ugly gravel lot. However, after crossing the highway the trail skirts Sherman Peak, climbing gently, crossing a helpful stream, and leaving the highway noise/dust behind. On the back side of Sherman there are expansive southerly views and great vistas of Snow Peak (which the trail winds around) and White Mountain (which the trail ascends, almost to the summit).
After skirting Snow Peak, I trudged over Barnaby Buttes, which were a bit rolly and infuriating and dotted with fresh bear scat. There was a tiny, dying stream on the north side of Barnaby that I used to filter water from.
The final ascent up White Mountain loose and rocky and doesn't quite reach the summit, but it has amazing views. Just after the rocky traverse on the edge of the treeline (south of White Mountain) there is another hearty spring, the last of the route. After the spring, the trail climbs briefly and then plunges several miles to the TH. There is no water there. My traverse north to south took 14h25min, after which I turned around and headed back. I continued straight through the night, finishing the O&B in 31:49.
The temperature dropped quite significantly through the night and the wind was stiff—I wished I had more layers. I saw one black bear on the return (north side of Barnaby Buttes) and dozens of grouse/woodpeckers. Paintbrush was blooming—especially toward the southern end. This seemed the ideal time to complete this traverse, as later there would be fewer flowers and water sources. The route in its entirety is quite undulating and though the climbs are not as punishing as some, flat sections were short and few. I saw only two people—two PNT through-hikers—the whole time. This was a really beautiful and lonely (in the good sense) trip and I will return to the trail.
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