Highly recommend microspikes and ice axes if attempting this.
Due to the weather forecast, we started from the trailhead at 6AM. During the ascent, we crossed four snowbridge-covered avalanche chutes. The snow was generally very firm. We crossed them one-at-a-time, wore helmets and microspikes, and used our ice axes. There was plenty of water running underneath and no great way of knowing how thick the snow bridges are. The first chute has a waterfall running behind it. This is the only good place along the route to refill water (and standing between the snow and the rock here felt AMAZING). We came across a couple here with a dog and this was where they wisely turned around.
Aside from the avalanche chutes, there's not much snow on the initial ascent except near the elbow. Here the trail was snow covered and firm... but this is also where the voracious and thoroughly evil mosquitos began. The elbow itself was snow-free until you turn back (climber's right) toward the summit. Here's the trail was entirely snow covered and travel was slow, with lots of evil mosquitos. Just below the summit block, the snow stopped and the summit was completely dry.
Overall, it was a long, hot, and enjoyable day.
Comments