The unpaved section of road to the trailhead is in good shape, with the washboard the roughest in the first 1-2 miles. After that, most cars should be able to go at least 20 mph with no problem. Since I hiked the loop clockwise, I began at the Deroux trailhead; the turnoff for it is about 2 miles from the main road end.
The trail varies widely in terms of quality, the worst section being between Gallagher Head Lake and Fortune Creek Pass. The rest of the tread is average to good with no blowdowns and is snow free. There are multiple small areas of water across the trail between Fortune Creek Pass and the Esmerelda Basin trailhead, but nothing that will pose a problem. As far as water supply is concerned, the longest stretch without it is between the crossing of Deroux Creek and the entrance to the meadow below Gallagher.
The trail crosses the creek almost immediately, and climbs a bit to a junction at 1 mile. Go right here and begin the first extended climbing of the day. As you go higher the trail will switchback numerous times with views back down the valley. The path levels briefly among thinning trees and some flowers before climbing again to finally view the stream you've been hearing as it cascades over the rocks. This is a great place for a rest stop, but you can also go around the corner and relax next to the creek before it plunges over the edge. A very idyllic spot.
The way stays level for a while as it travels through meadows with flowers currently on spectacular display. Soon the way climbs again, although not too steeply with long switchbacks. You come out to the lake at about 4 miles. It's a little too civilized for my taste, with a road accessing the area and a picnic table. The lake is OK, but the wheel tracks in the meadows are a disgrace. I think it looks better than the last time I was here though.
Now begins the bad stretch of the route. There are no signs here, so find the road and turn right, contouring the lake. First there are large pools of water to evade, then the road turns downhill, steep and rocky. Keep right at junctions (two as I recall) until you come to the clearly marked Esmerelda Basin trail on your right, about 1 mile from the lake. Quite straight and steep for 1/4 mile or so, then just steep with switchbacks. This section to Fortune Creek Pass has been degraded by wheels, so be prepared for a bit of slipping and lots of dust. In a seemingly long mile, achieve the pass. Great views of Hawkins Mountain and Mt Daniel, which revealed themselves on the way up. I've been here three or four times and it's always been windy.
Now drop down into Esmerelda Basin with the Esmerelda Peaks on your right. This is nice going through rocky meadows and slowly increasing forest. There is a Y in the trail about a mile or so from the pass that is signed but can be a bit confusing. Go left at the Y; I believe right goes to campsites. It's easy walking from here to the trailhead.
No one likes road walking, so I took the horse trail from the basin trailhead to complete the loop. The trail is not in good shape, but you save a bit of mileage as it lets you out right in the parking area where you started. I think you have to double back if you take the road. Don't take it if you don't like pie.:)
This is a pretty nice loop, but hikers should remember it is multiple use, so the trail can be deep and dusty at times. I saw two groups of mountain bikers and one of motorcyclists, along with two groups of hikers. If you don't want the whole loop, just make it separate day hikes to Gallagher Head Lake and Fortune Creek Pass. You still get a lot of the benefits, but cut out the 2+ miles of poor road/trail between the lake and the pass.
Comments