13 people found this report helpful
Calling it a spicy scramble.
One snow crossing was precarious (in soft snow conditions) with presumed difficulty self arresting prior to falling in melt out hole if that scenario of taking a fall were to occur.
Used crampons on portion of down climb but not on ascent.
Ice ax, helmet, crampons highly recommended.
7 people found this report helpful
Spent the night at the trailhead in order to get an early start for good snow. Woke up at 4 and found area totally socked in. Waited until 5 and the fog had let up a bit. Started at 5:25 up the primitive trail. It’s pretty clear to follow but definitely not your normal day hike. We had a GPS which helped us since we got off trail a bit. Planning to do a Washington - Ellinor traverse but wanted to summit Washington first. Headed right once we got to the jct with the traverse. Route got pretty sketchy once we reached a section with snow and rock. My partner decided to stay at the base of the steep snow while I continued. Do not attempt this if you are not comfortable rock climbing and scrambling. Headed right again towards the summit, which was mostly obstructed with clouds. Route is pretty clear but the summit does require some dicey scrambling. Maybe I took the wrong way, but I was heading up 4th class terrain to reach the summit. Summit views were gorgeous and there was a register to sign. Summited at 8:30. Thankfully, I was able to down climb what I climbed up, but falling was not an option. As I headed back on snow, nearing where I had left my partner, I slipped, the snow came right out from underneath my crampon. I slid from snow to rock breaking my left ankle. I could walk on my ankle but was in a lot of pain. I down climbed to my partner and we assessed the situation. Traverse was out of the question and we headed down, it was very slow going. The snow conditions were awful for my ankle and visibility was poor. I was so grateful to get back on dirt and rock even if it meant I was scooting on my butt. We contemplated calling Olympic Mtn Rescue but we both felt so much better once we got down to dirt that we decided not to. Using my trekking poles as “crutches” we got back down to the car at 1:15. Lesson of the story: Be so, so careful with these spring snow conditions. Mount Washington is much more technical than I was expecting. Tripping/falling in other places could cause serious injury or death. I know of someone who died up there years ago in May bc of falling. This climb is not for an average hiker. Be prepared with the necessary gear, be safe.
6 people found this report helpful
Trail noted as in good condition, but trail is indistinct in a few places and is very steep in many places. At about 5200', a large talus field is reached. Here you want to veer to climbers right following some indistinct cairns then up a gully leading left to get above the talus field. I think this is the least difficult choice for getting above the talus but is a bit steep. Farther along, the trail uses an exposed ledge to lead to a saddle with good view of Mt. Olympus. The trail continues below the ridge (trail never crosses to the NW side of the ridge in its route to the summit), and another section of ledge. Yet another tedious section of steep loose dirt and gravel to negotiate, then a short aesthetic scramble on the final block to the summit. I spent an extremely short time on the summit because of 1000's of swarming flying ants and ladybugs. I have seen these summit swarms before but this was the worst. Perhaps due to the heat. I spent just enough time on the summit to give praise to God for reaching it and sign my name into a register kept in a shiny steel box placed in spot between blocks of bedrock.
1 person found this report helpful
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