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Wanted some time on the mountain but wasn't feeling like snow, so I decided to head out to Ipsut Falls with a side trip to Chenuis.
Got to the TH around 8:45 AM to find two other cars in the small lot. Toilets were clean and had plenty of TP, but hand sanitizer dispensers were empty so bring your own if you want any.
The trail itself was in good condition all the way to Ipsut Falls. There are a couple spots that will become very muddy as soon as the ground thaws enough, but yesterday they were not a real problem.
The two bridges over to Chenuis Falls are still in, though you only need the second one - the channel has largely moved out from under the first and you could easily get over via rock hopping instead. There are a couple sections of the trail between the second bridge and where the trail heads into the woods to get to Chenius Falls where a braid of the Carbon has started to infiltrate... will be interesting to see what the Spring snow melt does. Currently you can get through without getting your feet wet if you are careful where you step.
Small patches of snow started off trail a little before Ipsut Creek CG. After the CG there were a couple very small patches on the trail, but the only one that caused any concern was one that is on the slope up out of the riverbed on the south side (Ipsut Falls side) of Ipsut Creek (where the wash out was previously). It wound up not being as slick as I was afraid it was going to be, but if it gets icy it could make getting up/ down that short slope a little interesting. Full disclosure, I am a wimp when it comes to slick conditions on steep-ish slopes, so for most this probably wouldn't even slow them down.
Had some tea at Ipsut Falls before heading back to the car. A gorgeous day to be in such a fantastic Park!
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Trailhead: There were about 10 cars in the lot when I showed up and when I left. The toilets were pretty clean and unlocked, but no tp in them so if you plan on using those, be sure to bring some. I had initially seen some reports that there was no snow up to the Summit Lake trailhead, but just looking up the sides of the valley from the Carbon River Road showed that was no longer true and I decided to do Carbon River instead.
Trail: Obviously most of this hike is along the old washed out Carbon River Road, so it is mostly very wide and ever so slightly uphill on the way out and slightly downhill on the way back. I went across the Carbon River to Chenuis Falls on the way out. The bridges were in and easy to follow and the falls were flowing. There was a trail crew with NPS laying gravel along the route. I hadn't been out on this trail this year and the NPS summer trail crews have done some incredible work. The two old washouts, which previously had been muddy and narrow trails bypassing them, are now gravel and almost unrecognizable. If you weren't paying attention you almost couldn't tell that you were on a bypass. They are wide paths that are now easily bikeable the whole way. Before you had to walk your bike on these parts. The other area that had huge improvement was the old bridge that had been washed out right before the old Ipsut Creek camp. Before it was a old log leaning on the remnants of the old bridge, but now it is a properly built bridge that was really easy to navigate. Moving past the campground the area over the creek before the falls had also had some work done and was easy to navigate as well. Ipsut Falls were flowing and really nice as well. You use to be able to see the old foundation for the campground pump house along the creek, but that also appears to have been removed. All around great work by NPS for improvements along this trail! The trail was not very crowded, but ran into some other solo hikers that were enjoying the day. Maybe saw a dozen other people. One person said there was some snow up at Green Lake but not much. Didn't see anyone past the turn off to Chenuis Falls and no one at the campground. More people closer to the parking area, and saw one cyclist the whole day.
Wildlife: Not much to speak of other than about a half doze Douglas squirrels along the way.
Overall good day on the trail with a little rain, and some clouds, but great views. 11.32 miles round trip with only 682 ft of elevation gain.
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There is no pre-made trail description on the WTA site, so the boxes I checked are approximate. What I hiked was a 13.1 mile trip from Mowich Lake CG to Ipsut Pass (did NOT continue to Tolmie Peak), then down to Ipsut CG, then maybe a mile up the Carbon River... and back. I was scouting to see if the trail was suitable for a marathon length day hike (and having underestimated the Ipsut Pass section, I'll probably say no--that is a climb and a steep descent for a mile).
I left Seattle area about 5:50 and parked at the TH about 7:30, started hiking about 7:45. The road hasn't really changed in years--15 miles of washboard, some potholes, gravel, and much dust. I love my Subaru Outback, but the road is clearly not for everybody. Stunned to see a few Teslas at the TH. I did end up passing at least 8 cars heading in/out that were very cautiously driving about 10-20 mph.
The trail certainly has its charms, starting with Mowich Lake, which is stunning and mirror smooth at 8 am, and a deep turquoise later in the day. Trail to Ipsut Pass (about 1.7 mi) is gradual and generally easy on the feet. Joggable. Views from the Pass are good, but the downhill beneath the cliffs was pretty unpleasant--narrow trail, rocky, and overgrown with vegetation making it tough to see where your feet are going. I enjoyed it more coming up a few hours later despite blazing sun. Beyond the base of the cliff (1 mi descent) the trail continues another 3 miles or so downward, mostly gradual, some crummy rocky stream-bed type sections, and a lot of soft mossy trail that is wonderful. Almost entirely in shade, which is great on a hot sunny day, and the constant sound/sight of Ipsut Creek. I couldn't find a satisfactory view of Ipsut Falls--I think I was over it, but it seemed kind of far down and hidden by trees. There was a short stub trail off the main path that seemed right, but it came to a bluff-top edge and tumbling down the hillside didn't seem worth it. Back to the main trail to the Carbon River, which was my favorite part of the day--broad, exposed, mostly dry and filled with rocks and logs. I LOVE that there is a well marked trail through it, which must be newly established every year after winter snows and spring floods. Maybe a mile up that way, then my turnaround point. Would have liked to go a few miles farther, but had to get home to make dinner. This part would be cool for a 26 mile hike, so maybe next scouting trip will include the road hike in from the Carbon River entrance and the Wonderland Trail toward Yellowstone Cliffs. The hike out was 2:15, ten minutes spent snacking and adjusting boots in the middle of the Carbon River, then 2:48 back to the car.
For those doing the big loop ( I crossed paths twice with a group of 8-10 on their third day of the whole loop), I think it's probably better schlepping a heavy pack UP Ipsut Pass than going down it. Tiring, sure, but less likely to take a tumble.
Stats:
Distance: 13.1 mi
Ascent: 3,013 (and -3,001 on the hike out)
Time: Moving, 4:59, stopped 14, total 5:13.
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Worked on the riverbed trail from the Ipsut side of the Carbon River and the trail between Ipsut Falls and Carbon River on the most recent WTA work party (6/28-7/3). NPS has some gorgeous log bridges in (pictured) on the hike to Carbon River, though the handles were a bit slick due to rain. Trail is relatively flat and offers views of the river throughout, with majority shade and solid footing two people wide. At the actual Carbon River crossing, our group helped clear a better path through the river bed to the log crossing which is supposed to be put in by the end of this week. Only downside to this trail was the views of Rainier are limited to the very end of the trail at the Carbon Riverbed area.
25 people found this report helpful
Made my way out to Ipsut Falls yesterday. Can’t believe how much work the crews have put in on this trail since I was last here in at the end of July. The two washout detours, that had been narrow trails through the trees, are now wide enough for the Park to get their atv through. The first one (~3.75 miles from the TH) is now completely graveled. The second one (~4.25 miles from the TH), has gravel on the northern half. The southern half is mostly packed dirt, but all would be easy for riding a bike.
So other than the usual couple of short sandy/ rocky sections that I’ve seen bikers walking through in the past (I’m not a biker myself, so am only judging based on what I’ve seen), bikers can now easily ride your bikes all the way to the bridges over Ipsut Creek into the campground! And at least yesterday, the sandy sections were wet enough to be pretty consolidated; I suspect they could have also been ridden through without major difficulty (looking at the depth of the tire treads running through them, I suspect that's what most bikers were doing).
I got to the TH around 8:30AM and was the first person to park in the parking area inside MRNP (there was one car parked along the side of the road before the Park boundary). Toilets were clean and well stocked with both TP and hand sanitizer (though the farther toilet didn’t have the roll in the dispenser but just sitting on the hand rail – hopefully people are careful with it and it doesn’t wind up on the floor). Roads in were snow free and fine for all vehicles.
Started out towards Ipsut Falls, taking the short (~0.4 mile RT, +275 ft per Gaia) spur to the old mine on the way.
The second log bridge over Ipsut Creek into the campground has the uprights installed for the handrail now, and the two handrail sections were there waiting to be installed. That log is large enough that even without the handrail it's not difficult to cross, though (and I'm not know for my sure feet).
Since I’ve last been here, in addition to the trail work noted above, the crossing of Ipsut Creek south of the campground has also been improved. When you get to the washout, there are two very large logs laid across the trail blocking the way forward. The new path to the crossing is easy to see heading north (right) from that location through the trees a short distance before you get to the creek. From there you walk across the river bed to the other side, which has also been improved since last I was here with logs creating some solid steps to get you up to the opposite bank.
The short spur trail out to the viewpoint for Ipsut Falls is also much improved. Last time there was a section of the bank right after you stepped over a tree that wouldn’t have taken any weight; it was held in place only with spiders’ webs and particularly stubborn moss. Yesterday that entire upper section of trail had been cut away (or washed away perhaps) and a new gravelly trail was in place below it’s previous position. Much more solid a track for getting over to the falls.
Had lunch enjoying the view of the falls, which I had all to myself the entire time, and then started back to the car. I did try to get across to Chenuis Falls but I couldn’t find the last bridge over the largest braid of the Carbon (posted as a separate Trip Report).
There was, sadly, more garbage along the trail than I’ve found in the past. Wound up gathering enough to fill an entire gallon ziplock bag. Not the worst of trails I’ve done (that ‘award’ goes to Twin Falls), but worse than I usually see on this trail. Hopefully yesterday was an outlier rather than a new normal.
Saw six deer; four at the campgrounds, one of which had absolutely zero cares to give about the humans walking on the trail not that far from them, and two more on trail that were only slightly more skittish.
Despite the added garbage, it was still a fantastic day. I love the mossy forest along the road walk; it’s so good for my soul. There was a period of about 5 minutes while I was searching for the bridges over to Chenuis where it considered starting to rain, but only a few drops fell before it stopped again. Mostly hiked in just a base layer and long sleeved shirt, though did put my shell on at the falls as the cold running water lowered the temp considerably.