185
Beware of: trail conditions
  • Ripe berries
 

We had planned a six day trip starting at the Lightning Creek Trailhead on Ross Lake, connecting with the PCT at Castle Pass and then circling back to the East Bank Trailhead. It rained much of the first three days and the trail past the start of the Wenatchee Wilderness is not maintained so we had very slow going over lots of blowdown and through vine maple that had overgrown the trail. It took us about five hours to get from the trailhead to Little Fish shelter (not a shelter)the first day and we had to stop there for the night to dry gear and because we knew we were not going to get all the way to Freezout Lake which was our intended destination. The second day it was also very rough going up to the ridge through lots of blowdown and rainy weather. We only saw a couple campsites the whole way from Little Fish Shelter to Big Face Creek. We could not see much more than a possible animal trail down to Freezeout Lake which is several hundred feet below the trail. It took us most of the day to get from Little Fish Shelter to Big Face Creek which had a good campsite on the far side of the creek. It rained all night so we made a decision to turn around at that point because we did not know if the bad weather and trail conditions (except for PCT) would continue and we were heading into higher elevations along the with colder temperatures and less opportunity to shelter out of the weather. We saw no other hikers past the start of the Wenatchee Wilderness or animals larger than a Marmot. The country was very beautiful despite the hard trail and bad weather so we all felt the trip was worth it and we learned a lot about travel in those conditions. One of our members knew how to start campfires from a little birch bark and wet fir twigs.

East Bank Ross Lake, Desolation Peak — Aug. 8, 2013

North Cascades > North Cascades Highway - Hwy 20
4 photos
Rebecca Lavigne
WTA Member
25

2 people found this report helpful

 
These will probably be my hardest won miles of Hike-a-Thon 2013, but they were so worth it. With a canoe and permits for 4 nights of camping on Ross Lake, Desolation Peak was our hoped-for destination on the third day. Following a short paddle from camp on nearby Cat Island, we arrived at the Desolation dock hoping the light rain would let up and the clouds would clear. Both happened in fairly short order and by the time we broke completely out into the open about 2-3 miles up the (steep!) trail, it was hot. The peak more than lived up to its promise of stunning North Cascades views ranging from Mount Baker to the Pasayten, north into Canada, and south to the Glacier Peak area. We were alert for building thunderheads to the east, which had rolled through the night before, and could see them forming by early afternoon. I heard the clucking of a female grouse and then saw her ushering one or two little ones across the trail just below the lookout. That night we camped again on Cat Island and watched the thunder/lightning storm descend over Highway 20 (subsequently causing mudslides that closed the highway and a washout closing the Cascade River Road and stranding hikers temporarily at Cascade Pass) - it moved north and engulfed us around 9pm. The next morning we paddled south to Lightning Creek near the official start of the Desolation Peak Trail. I got dropped off by the bridge to hike a section of the lush East Bank Trail south to Devil's Camp where I would pick up the boat again (and meet my husband who offered to paddle our boat solo while I logged a few more miles for Hike-a-Thon!) The gentle East Bank Trail was moss covered the entire way, passing several beautiful streams and some big trees. The trail drainage was put to the test with the heavy rains the two previous nights and performed well except for a couple of small muddy sections. I would love to explore the rest of the trail someday. A few more details on Desolation Peak trail conditions: The lookout was locked, unfortunately, with a friendly note asking hikers not to break in. We ran into one other party the entire day - surprising for a Saturday in August. The meadows below the lookout had a few wildflowers holding on but most were done for the season. A handful of blowdowns along the way were easy to step over except one in the final mile before the top where hikers have beat a path around it. Mosquitoes were plentiful on the trail but nowhere to be seen on the peak. Tons of flies could be heard buzzing around the lookout but very few were actually biting. Bring plenty of water - there is a little rivulet in the first 2 miles of the trail that has all but dried up.
1 photo
Beware of: trail conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming

5 people found this report helpful

 

This point to point trip was in the plans for months - a two nighter fast pack from Harts Pass, up the legendary section of PCT to Castle Pass, then west over Trail 749. By all Green Trails appearances it looked like a great route. The entire way up the PCT was grand and the trail in great shape. Trail 749 reports unveiled 7 years of unmaintained trail and more descriptive challenges that we knew would only be compounded with time. Armed with this and our gear dutifully packed, we wanted to get through Trail 749 in one day. Lightning Creek camp and the pleasant waters of Ross Lake awaited.. We got to Harts Pass trail head at 8:45am on Friday. We signed in, said our prayers and hit the trail by 9:15. Beginning at 6,200 ft, the grandeur gets right with it. From the start to the end of our first day it was simply incredible. The majority of the time you are running along a slope or a ridge so the flora and views abound in all their incrediblness. Coming off of Lakeview Ridge we descended to Hopkins Pass and stayed the night at the lake. Day one took us just over 26 miles and we made it to camp by 7:45pm. This was the most beautiful camp I've ever stayed at. After and a bath in the lake, my oats and coffee, we were trailbound by 9. At Castle Pass we hung a left and the overgrowth appeared right away. At 4 miles from Canada this trail is remote and I assume its a challenge to get a work crew out here, but lets not forget why the CCC created this trail to begin with. The trail was scant in some areas and not there at all in others but yet you never felt lost. The hard to follow areas were challenging with overgrowth dropping down to Big Face Creek and we were hit and miss for the next 3 through dense growth. This proved to be actually fun. We were successful in navigating the map description and contours to navigate us up the saddle. It was climbing up the face we encountered our first black bear who bolted as soon as he saw us. The Hard To Follow section to Freezeout Lake is not bad. You simply follow cairins along the way and enjoy the views. After a few more miles the hard work begins. This was 3 hours of tough navigation, buscwhacking, blowdowns, whacks, pokes and bees. It was no doubt tough, but absolutely worth it! The views along this entire trail left me in awe. Once we got back in the North Cascades Park the trail changed immediately. We were at Lightning Camp in short order. Dinner dockside by 8. Ross Lake Resort Taxi picked us up at the lake at 9am and we were at the truck in no time. We hammered 54 miles in two days and made it safely. Trail 749 is simply unattended but navigable. Its worth it - just ready up because it will test your chops. Take your time at your leisure because there is a wonderful supply of incredible grandeur along this stretch. Happy times...

Desolation Peak, East Bank Ross Lake, Happy-Panther — Jun. 30, 2013

North Cascades > North Cascades Highway - Hwy 20
4 photos

1 person found this report helpful

 
Beautiful views from Desolation Peak. Definitely in my top 10, and possibly my top 5. You work for it, though. The trail is steep, and it was about 85 degrees when we went up. As Craig Romano mentions in Backpacking Washington, there is a small stream a mile or two before Desolation Camp. The way I read the book, I expected the water source to be present year-round. After seeing it, though, I'd be surprised if it's there for much longer this year. There were still a few patches of snow on Desolation Peak, but not much, and not enough to pose any navigation or footing problems. Desolation Camp was pretty nice, though we did have some minor issues with wildlife. Bear Cans are required at that camp. We tied our can to a tree, to make sure that some animal didn't knock it down the side of the mountain. In the middle of the night, we heard an animal messing with the bear can. In the morning, I found the rope chewed into two pieces, with both pieces being thoroughly damaged. Luckily, the rope was enough to keep the bear can from walking away. I also was awakened periodically by a mosquito buzzing right next to my ear on the other side of my tent's mesh. I was glad to have a tent and not a tarp at this camp. The next day we hiked south to Devil's Junction. We only saw a few day hikers on the way to camp. That section of the trail isn't particularly interesting, though I admit that I was distracted by the heat wave that we were having. Devil's Junction boat camp apparently has 3 sites. One of them is right on the lake with a nice large ad level tent pad, a dock, a nice beach, a bear box, and an outhouse. The other one is down a trail with numerous blowdowns. The tent spot is on a rocky bluff overlooking the water. It's almost big enough to stake a 3 person tent. I made it work by substituting rocks for stakes in 3 places. The rocks retain a lot of heat, so we had to stay up for a while and wait for the tent to cool down before we could go to sleep. I'd never slept with the fly off before, and will say that it was pretty awesome to wake up in the middle of the night and see the big dipper. The next day we got up really early so that we could get in as many miles as possible before the trail heated up. We hiked south to Hidden Hand group site. The trail between these two sections was nice for a few miles, but then turned inland again. This was also the only time when we had to cross a river without a bridge. Fortunately, there was a nice wide log to cross on. Hidden Hand group site is not the most beautiful site. It's dusty, and the forest is thin and doesn't provide much shade. There is a nice little stream to get water from. The camp is divided into tent areas and cooking areas. The cooking area is much nicer, and I'd suggest hanging out there and only returning to the tent area when it's time to go to bed. All of the camps that I stayed at had pit toilets or out houses. On the last day, we hiked south again until we hit highway 20, and then hiked on the Happy Panther trail until we got back to the Ross Lake Resort trailhead. Happy Panther was actually a pretty nice trail. Much nicer (and quieter) than I expected for a trail that runs parallel to a highway. While there was some pretty nice scenery, I'm not sure that there was enough to justify 32 miles of hiking. There was plenty of solitude, though, and the lakeside camp sites can be pretty nice. I think the trail was in good condition. I don't remember any problems with bugs or blowdowns - just heat.
1 photo
Beware of: snow, trail conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming
 
Full trip report and photos are up on my blog here: www.seekingultra.blogspot.ca Overall, there still is significant snow on Jackita Ridge, with route finding and cross-country travel necessary; no issues on Devil's Ridge. Difficult overgrowth and blowdowns from Dry Creek Pass to Ross Lake. Abundant water throughout.