Heads up!

There are a lot of closures in the Mountain Loop area now due to either fires, construction or road damage.  Please check current conditions before heading out.  As of 8/26, the North Fork Sauk and other area trails are still open, including the PCT.  PCT does have a closure and detour on part of Section K but it's well to the north.  Check details here: https://www.pcta.org/discover-the-trail/closures/washington/glacier-peak-wilderness/

I went out to the Bald Eagle Mtn. Trailhead to do the classic Blue Lake/Pilot Ridge Loop.  I did the loop counterclockwise, starting at Bald Eagle and finishing at the North Fork Sauk TH.  Other than a handful of down trees and some sloping/washed out tread, there are hardly any issues with the trails on the loop.  Late season low water levels make the crossing of the N.F. Sauk at the junction of the Pilot Ridge Trail a piece of cake.  Speaking of low water, the loop is quite dry above 3000ft, with a couple of trickling streams on the Bald Eagle Trail and the Blue Lakes being the only sources.  Bugs are not too bad, even by the lakes.  There are lots of trout but most in the upper lake are quite small.  Little Blue Lake hides some bigger ones.  I brought in one that was about 12" long and weighed a little over a pound.  It made a great lunch!

The wildfire smoke wasn't too bad on this trip but it varies significantly from day-to-day.  With 3 large fires burning in the vicinity, it might be best to head somewhere else if you're sensitive.

"Then something Tookish woke up inside him, and he wished to go and see the great mountains, and hear the pine-trees and the waterfalls, and explore the caves, and wear a sword instead of a walking-stick."

J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit

Itinerary: Meadow Creek TH to Pear Lake, north along PCT to White Pass, exiting via North Fork Sauk River trail.

CHECK CURRENT WILDFIRE CONDITIONS BEFORE TRAVELING IN THIS AREA. I recommend this website: https://www.fireweatheravalanche.org/fire/state/washington

Overall impression: PCT from Pear Lake to White Pass is a relatively quiet trail with jaw-dropping views (some of the best I’ve ever seen), little water currently, and very crowded camping areas unless you stop at random dry campsites along the trail.

Day 1: Meadow Creek TH to Pear Lake

I decided to take this shorter route to Pear Lake rather than starting from the Smithbrook TH in order to avoid the long miles without water and the climb up underwhelming Grizzly Peak. Meadow Creek Trail is a gently graded, well-maintained trail through shaded forest, which was much appreciated on this hot day, and I saw absolutely no one until arriving at Fortune Ponds. There are multiple flowing streams along the trail. I had considered camping at Fortune Ponds, but the ponds turned out to be pretty murky and small, not ideal for filtering water and swimming. There was a group of three folks camping there who had camped the night before at Pear Lake, and they recommended I carry on. It’s a bit of a climb over the ridge, but once you crest and Pear Lake comes into view, it all feels worth it. At every turn of the switchbacks heading down there’s a new beautiful view of the lake and mountain range beyond. I arrived around 3:00pm to a completely empty camping area on the northwest side of the lake and took a swim; only one other couple ended up there that day. Campsites here are numerous and far apart, which is different than the one large camping area on the east side near the PCT. The following day I met people who didn’t realize this and suffered through the late-night conversation of a group of PCT hikers who kept them awake. I highly recommend wandering over to the east side of the lake at sunset.

Day 2: Pear Lake to Lake Sally Ann

As the weather grew even hotter, I ventured onto the PCT going north and was immediately greeted with incredible views from the trail along the ridge. Eventually it dips down into forest and then back up on exposed ridges, making for a sweaty hike with few water sources - there were only two, a small creek about four miles from Pear Lake, then much larger Pass Creek a couple miles further. This is a great spot for soaking your feet and lunching, except for the aggressive biting flies. As much as I hate using it, Deet kept them away. Fill up all your containers of water here because there’s nothing else until Lake Sally Ann, another four miles or so of hot exposed climbing. Just when you’ve given up on there actually being a lake on this ridge, Lake Sally Ann appears like a mirage and if you’re also there on a hot day, you’ll want to throw down your pack and jump in. I recommend first grabbing a site, because this is a popular camp spot. The most well-established sites are in the trees on the north side of the lake, and there are others scattered to the right of the trail as it passes the lake. You can access shallow water right near where the PCT passes, or take a trail around to the far side of the lake where there are nice rocks for sitting and accessing deeper water. By nightfall all the campsites were filled up, to the point that I could hear the heavy breathing of a nearby camper. Lake Sally Ann is a gorgeous spot along the PCT, but not a place to camp if your top priority is solitude.

As the hours passed, a group of us watched with increasing concern as the Airplane Lake fire seemed to grow - it billowed darker and higher, but always seemed to blow east away from the PCT. Those of us with Garmins had the ability to check in with civilization and learn that while there were no warnings or closures for the Airplane Lake fire, another fire had started near Rainy Pass that was closing the PCT north of Stehekin. Although several hikers were concerned about making it to the border and/or heading toward the billowing smoke just ahead, everyone decided to carry on.

Day 3: Lake Sally Ann to White Pass

This was another long hot day of exposed hiking, with few places to collect water. Nonetheless I decided to stop at the base of Kodak Peak, stash my backpack and make the short climb to the peak. The PCT crosses the base of Kodak Peak, then turns sharply on its east side - this is where there’s a lovely shaded campsite. If you need water, as of 8/16 there was a trickle crossing the trail about 5 minutes further hiking northbound. It took about 10 minutes to get to the top of Kodak Peak and it was a gorgeous 360 degree view that included more of Glacier Peak than I saw on the entirety of my trip, including at White Pass. The trail is steep but never felt unsafe. The only disconcerting thing about the peak is large clusters of insects nesting on the tips of the stunted trees. They might have been biting flies, but I didn’t get many bites up there. It’s easy to avoid the nesting trees if you notice them before you’re upon them.

The camping at White Pass is down a short, steep trail. Right now it’s dusty and dry there, with just a trickle of water going through the camp - go right at the bottom of the trail down to find it. It’s liable to run through the season, but with the short trickles it’s difficult to collect water and impossible to bathe. If you’re hiking to White Pass from the north, I recommend collecting water at the first of three trickles you’ll pass after passing the North Fork Sauk junction (it’s got a nice long flow making it easier to collect) before getting to camp. If you’re arriving from the south, one option is to head out the Foam Creek trail for just a few minutes and you’ll come along a stronger flow than the one at White Pass Camp. The views from White Pass Camp are incredible, the camping not so much if you like solitude. My second night there folks were crowding in, setting up tents on the sensitive grassy area rather than in the established sites under the trees close to the ridge. Also, there IS a backcountry toilet there, just follow the signs and you’ll find it among a grove of trees.

Day 4: White Pass day hikes

As recommended by a few different hiking books, I decided to stay two nights at White Pass and do some wandering. Hiking north on the PCT from White Pass to Red Pass in the early morning was a spiritual experience - the solitude, the growing soft light as it hits the Monte Cristo range and beyond, more distant mountain ranges slowly unfolding as you climb gently toward Red Pass. Marmots whistling, munching on blueberries, lounging on warming rocks. Just wow. At Red Pass I climbed the short hill to the right opposite Portal Peak (which I found to be too sketchy to climb up but maybe I didn’t find the right trail) and stayed there for at least an hour, watching as hikers came and went along the PCT, took photos, snacked, and just soaked up the view of Glacier Peak (partly blocked by its “foothills”), the Monte Cristo Range beyond Pilot Ridge, and everything else in the nearly 360 degree view. In the evening I trekked out the Foam Creek trail, hoping to get to the point where there’s an unobstructed view of Glacier Peak, again recommended by a hiking book. But after an hour of hiking the trail turned increasingly sketchy, and being alone and near my turnaround time, I decided not to continue. I still highly recommend this quiet trail at sunset, with more open views of what seems to be all the mountain ranges in WA. Add to that the glowing red smoke of the Airplane Lake fire (I actually saw a few flames and was happy to be leaving the next day), abundant blueberries not grazed sparse by hikers, startled ptarmigans, prancing marmots literally posing for their portraits, the hairs of the Dr. Suess-like flowers Anemone Occidentalis glowing orange, and you’ve got yourself another spiritual experience. Just be sure to bring your headlamp with you in case all this distraction delays your return!

Day 5: White Pass to North Fork Sauk River trailhead

Woke up this morning to a strong wind - I heard it’s often present on the White Pass Camp ridge - and my face and sleeping bag covered in dust despite sleeping under a tent and fly! As the fires in Glacier Peak Wilderness grew, closing parts of the PCT further north, the more anxious hikers became increasingly concerned. I ended up taking one hiker out with me, giving her a ride from the North Fork Sauk River trailhead and even a bed in my home near Seattle. Although I enjoy my solitude, I highly recommend such “trail angel” acts (as she kept calling it). I got to know a fellow solo woman hiker and a lovely person from Montreal who I hope to hike with again someday! The NFSR trail is nicely graded, so although it loses a lot of elevation it’s not too hard on those with older knees. The second half is nearly flat and entirely along the river in the forest.

Our group of 7 (ages 15 to 67), entered the PCT via North Fork Sauk TH to White Pass (road to TH in pretty bad shape), followed it to the Suiattle River crossing (much better road!), exited via Suiattle River trail.  Easy travel, trail freshly fixed and brushed up to White Pass, and then into the White Chuck river valley - where things did change!

Broken bridge over Baekos Creek still standing (we camped there the first night); bridge over Kennedy Creek has disappeared; it was raging after an inch of rain the night before; we detoured up river and found an easier crossing, about calf/knee deep for a few steps. Trekking poles were useful for balance but a stick would have worked as well. Many downed trees, some of immense size all the way to the exit, and sections of heavy brush.

Camped at Mica Lake in drizzle, but the next morning it cleared up and we went for a swim! The water is noticeably warmer than other mountain lakes, which was quite surprising.  

Water is sparse between Milk Creek and East Fork Milk Creek, and then again down to Vista Creek; but plentiful on the Suiattle River Trail. 

Encountered a few N-S PCT thru hikers, but overall a great sense of solitude and remoteness. Good up close views of elusive Glacier Peak. Berries are starting to ripen; many flowers in bloom but not very lush - probably due to the dry weather we've had. 

DS - if you lost a credit card on the PCT near Indian Pass, we have it. Can send it to you or destroy if you prefer.

Great trip! Tons of wildflowers and beautiful views. Hike up to White Pass was long and very hot.Two snow bridges to cross on the way up. Views when we got to the top made it all worth it. Lots of space on a Saturday down in the camping area just below the pass, and there was still running water. Grouse huffed us to sleep at night, and one wandered through our campsite while we were packing up. Definitely not nervous around people. Bugs were present, but bearable.

PCT between White Pass and Dishpan Gap is in excellent shape. Just a few snow patches, tons of flowers. More grouse heard and seen along the trail. The high route to Blue Lake is now snow free. Steep, but only about a 15 foot section of scree where I really would have liked a pole. We only saw one other person camped at Blue Lake. Bugs were pretty bad - drove us into the tent early.

Some sections of snow on Pilot Ridge, but nothing with a bad runout, and melting fast. And more grouse! Disturbed a mother with young on the trail. And of course more wildflowers. We didn't realize quite how much up there is on this section of the trail - over 1500 ft according to my watch, which brings the total elevation loss to 5000 ft. Luckily someone has chipped off the top of the log you cross to get back to the North Fork Sauk, making for an easy crossing with tired legs.

This trip was an overnight backpacking trip starting from North Fork Sauk TH and lollipop looped clockwise via white pass and upper blue lake. Day 1: TH to Upper Blue Lake via White Pass: 18.5 mi / 6319 gain. Day 2: Upper Blue Lake to TH via Pilot Ridge Trail: 10.76 mi / 1,493 gain.

TL;DR:
If you're looking for solitude, skip. If you're looking for a really pristine and well-maintained trail with some beautiful views, this one's for you. Trail is in excellent condition. Pilot Ridge is a bit more rugged with a handful of blowdowns and a river crossing. Upper Blue lake is beautiful but mosquitos were annoying. Mostly exposed trail once you start the climb up, shaded and forested by the river.

Road Conditions: Paved until you hit the gravel road to the TH on Mountain Loop HWY. There are lots of pot holes, but nothing that going slow and carefully wouldn't be able to manage. There's some campsite/picnic tables at the TH as well as a very clean well stocked pit toilet. Parking area was nearly full when we arrived at 8:30am Saturday morning.

Trail Conditions: 
All the trails were in great condition. A little brushy or drainage brush in those areas, meadows were blooming so lots of wildflowers. Pilot Ridge trail was more notably rugged with a few blowdowns and just general terrain was less hard packed and wide, more rocky or loose in the meadows. PCT section was great and plenty of views. Bald Eagle was a climb up, but nice views, took the shortcut trail to the Upper Lakes which was steep and rocky on both sides but doable and beautiful! Overall there were a handful of snow patches still that you can see are melting out below, so use common sense and cross accordingly. Some of them you could navigate above or below if too thin.

Note: we did not go up to Johnson Mountain, but we could see the trail heading up to the summit and looked clearly defined and free of both snow and blowdowns, so figured I'd note that here. 

Animals/Bugs: no animal sightings aside from squirrels and chipmunks and birds. Did see some bear scat, but no bear sighting. Heard marmots and grouse, but harder to spot them. The mosquitos and bugs didn't feel too bad while moving on trail, but definitely at Upper Blue Lake, they were annoying enough that you didn't really just want to sit out all evening. I felt the bugs and mosquitos were worse on Pilot Ridge Trail as well, but second day was also a little more humid in general. 

Water sources: from TH to White pass you've got plenty. It's a bit dry once you start the ascent up, but then there's some really nice flows near White Pass. It's pretty dry from Indian Gap to Upper Blue Lake as well. There are some significant snow melt streams still happening if you needed. Plenty of water at the lake, but about 6.5 miles were dry from the lake heading towards the TH on Pilot Ridge, so would be the same heading out. There's a really nice waterfall stream - that would be your last source before the lake if going counter-clockwise.

Other: there were a lot of people summiting Glacier peak who use that trail up to white pass, so camp area was crowded when we passed by. Also, camping at upper blue lake was pretty packed as well. It's a beautiful trail, so I can see why it's popular, but if you are looking for more solitude, either consider another route, or pick a dry camp spot at one of the passes or ridges that have room for single tent. They're equally beautiful and would have more quiet. Only other note would be bring sun protection, as once you make the climb up you're mostly exposed and out the sun. 

Happy Trails!