White Pass, Red Pass, Cinder Cone, White Chuck Glacier ... all are within reach, but can you get there?
We set off on the North Fork Sauk River Road, parking less than a mile from the Mountain Loop Highway where a relatively minor road washout has effectively closed access to the now-empty Sloan Creek Campground. Maybe some savvy volunteers will get together sometime and fix this in a day!
The sign at the Highway warns ""No Parking at Road End,"" but we saw four other cars parked at the washout. We managed to squeeze into a fifth space, leaving just enough to allow a turnaround but anyone else coming in would have to drive back out to the main road. Notices here warned that the White River Trail east from the PCT was temporarily closed due to fires. We later met hikers intending to follow the PCT from Red Pass to Kennedy Hot Springs.
Until the road is repaired, hikers (and bikers) will enjoy a pleasant six mile warm up walk along the forested and level North Fork Sauk Road (otherwise in fine condition) to the Sloan Creek Campground, which we covered in a short two hours. Without further ado, we hit the heavily mossed, level and cool trail along the North Fork Sauk River, passing old growth firs and 35 easy to cross blowdowns to reach the Mackinaw Shelter, five miles and four well-rested hours later. A mile before the shelter at Red Creek, there's a possible log crossing a short way upstream, and an easier six-foot high log crossing 25 yards downstream. It was also easy to walk straight across.
From here, though we didn't know it at the time, we faced another six hours until we would reach our campsite north of Red Pass. Though the trail up to the PCT is only three or four miles, the elevation rises from under 3000 at the River to about 6000 feet. Water was available along the way to help lighten the load, and views of the expanding mountainous horizons encouraged stops along the way. As we trudged higher and higher, fragile-winged butterflies and then an aluminum-winged 737 out on maneuvers flew along with us. (At the avalanche about halfway up, look for the bypass trail to the right.) Five hours later, after briefly missing the left hand turn at the intersection with the PCT (sign missing), we reached Red Pass and, oddly miles from anywhere with seven other hikers who all happened to arrive at the same time, we all gazed across to the partial view of Glacier Peak's rugged south face and down into the White Chuck River valley.
Though there are camps almost two miles further down the pass, we took the loads off our feet as quickly as possible on one of the rocky perches just below, surrounded by melting snow and crystal waters. From here, we hiked the next day to the top of Cinder Cone where we spent quite the fine time with views of ice-covered ponds and snow-covered mountains and glaciers. We must have been seen by the pilots of the low-flying KC-130. This cindery cone-top vantage is perfect for scoping out the trip up to the White Chuck Glacier which, alas, will have to wait another visit.
The country here above 5500 feet is full of heather and wild flowers, but not too many huckleberries this season. Retracing our steps to Red Pass in the evening, we tried for the summit of Portal Peak, but that got a little steep for me not too far up. Instead, I strolled back toward White Pass, at one point sitting close to a covey of grouse and at another listening to the whistles of the marmots. And the sun set.
Low pressure moved in the next morning and so we decided to aim for a delectable dinner of omelettes and beer in the cafe in Granite Falls instead of peanuts at a stormy White Pass. Had we stayed another day, we could have touched the White Chuck Glacier or moved camp back to the empty meadows of White Pass. Instead we packed out our gear dry and enjoyed the 16 or 17 miles back to the car in a relatively comfortable 9 1/2 hours. Except for the avalanche (bypassable) and the minor blowdowns, the trail is in excellent shape. Bugs were out wherever we sat during most of the sunny days, but mostly disappeared during the breezy evenings. ... When they (we?) fix that very, very fixable problem at the beginning of the road, the hike to Red Pass will be a piece of cake!