Jonathan and I were surprised that not only is the entire Mountain Loop snow-free, FS 49 (N Fk Sauk River Rd) is completely snow free, at least to the trailhead. Even more surprising was that skunk cabbage is beginning to poke up along the trail! The shrubbery has a red haze of new growth, and the lichens are fruiting. Without the heavy vegetation of late spring and summer, you can see deep into the forest. We didn't go far; not even to Red Creek - we were there to have fun with photography, and the N Fk Sauk trail always, always, always - provides wonderful photo ops. The Mountain View Cafe is Robe is now open! CASH or CHECKS ONLY! Limited menu for now - hamburgers, BLTs, French dips....sirloin steak, T-bone. No pie yet, but....their Grand Opening is Valentine's Day, and surely they'll have sumpin' sweet to eat then.

We hiked 3 miles plus before stopping for lunch and then returning to the TH. The trail became snow covered and very icey at our turn around spot. Prior to this we had had patchy snow and ice on the trail which could be navigated with no traction devices. This was our first time on this trail and it met and surpassed all that we had read about it. The groves of cedar and Douglas fir are very impressive. We will return when the days are longer to go deeper into this river valley.

It turned out to be a great day for a hike. I opted for an easier hike this time out as my friend that went with me is still recovering from being hit by a car a few months ago. I had visited this trailhead a couple times and climbed up to the Red Mountain Lookout (a great view on a clear day) that leaves from the N. Fork Sauk Trail a few yards in. I really wanted to see what lay further up the main trail and knew it would be an easier stroll for my friend. We approached from the Barlow Pass side and the main road was in decent condition. Once on FSR #49 that leads to the trailhead we found it to be full of potholes and puddles. It is passable to cars, just watch your speed as I did find some big holes on the road. At the parking lot we found just two other vehicles there and as it turned out one of the people/ groups went up Red Mountain. As we set out on our hike it was gloomy with a light mist that stuck with us for most of the trip in. The trail is still clear and well defined after the first couple rounds of rain we've had. However, the trail has become slick and muddy very quickly in alot of places. Rocks and roots posed slipping and tripping hazards so be careful. With the hazards though came beauty that could only be found deep in the forest. Old growth trees were everywhere and fall colors were out in full force. Moss blanketed just about everything. We saw all different kinds of mushrooms and fungus the whole way up the trail. There were also a nice couple spots to stop and admire the river that was flowing fast with th recent rains. At 3 1/2 miles in we came to a campground and a new footbridge across a nearby creek. We decided to call it good and stopped for lunch. Soon after we saw an older man coming back from the shelter another 1 1/2 mile up the trail. We exchanged "Hellos" and soon he was gone. Not long after the sun came out and we headed back after our break. On the way back we got occasional sunbreaks which was really neat in the damp forest.

Lost Creek Ridge #646 -- Lake Byrne -- White Chuck #643 -- PCT #2000 -- White Pass -- North Fork Sauk #649 Loop A farewell to summer. The crux of this spectacular loop is the White Chuck River crossing. If you have good log-crossing skills, you will not find this difficult and don't let it deter you, although the consequences of a fall could be serious. It's an easy shinny if you don't want to walk it. Might be more exciting at high water! Don't fall, OK? My 21 lb. Welsh corgi accompanied me with minimal help. Maps: Green Trails Sloan Peak and Glacier Peak; USGS 7.5' Sloan Peak, Glacier Peak West, and Glacier Peak East (optional). The 7.5' maps might be useful if much of the Lost Creek Ridge trail is under snow, otherwise it's easy to follow. DAY 1 9/26/09 Stashed pack at Lost Creek Ridge #646. Parked at N Fork Sauk #649 and biked back. 8:10 start Lost Creek Ridge. If you like working out on a Stairmaster, you will love this long, steady, steep, smooth, soft grade all the way to Round Lake pass, a great warmup workout (just going as far as Round Lake will be rewarding enough for many). Don't expect it to last. Past Round Lake, it gets rougher and slower with a lot of up-and-down. A level ridge walk? Not! Count the contours it crosses. Some north-side spots might be arguably ice-axe terrain if hard snow. Berries were a significant hindrance, no joke, garbanzo-sized blueberries and huckleberries as thick as I've seen them. Resistance is futile; they WILL slow you down. Some windfall, not a problem. 3:35 Map edge. Saw a bear north of Camp Lake. Carried night's water from Camp Lake to high plateau between Camp & Byrne; low-impact gravel sites are available with fine views. Camp Lake has fine campsite, and there are others along this trail. I removed considerable small obstacles. The trail is in good-enough shape. I loved it. DAY 2 9/27/09 10:15 LV high camp between Camp Lk & Byrne Lk 10:45 LV Byrne Lk. Trail down the White Chuck R. is steep and rugged/rooty in places, but good-enough. About 2 dozen blowdown remain, most just stepovers, I removed many small things, not a major hindrance. A nest of larger blowdown just at the river might obscure the trail if you're going uphill, but look and you'll find it, it's not hard to follow if not under snow. Cairns at riverbank. 12:20 White Chuck R. (delayed by trail cleanup). I think Kennedy Ck. changed its course in the flood and the confluence is now upstream of where it's marked on the 1988 7.5' map. I did not reconnoitre a crossing of the White Chuck below Kennedy Ck to pick up Kennedy Ridge Tr #639, but I think it could be done. Now, at low water, there's a log crossing you might have to wade to. The logs crossing the White Chuck R. are a couple hundred yards upstream of the Lake Byrne trail, upstream of the confluence, cairned, easy to find. At least 3 possibilities. If you are comfortable with log crossings, I don't think you'll find this difficult. "Best" log is 20-30' long, 7' high, 2+' diameter, smooth, level. I belayed the corgi (who walked across with no hesitation and didn't understand the fuss), shinnied it with my pack, and walked it upright without a pack. See photos. I was across the White Chuck -- upstream of the confluence -- 30 min. after reaching the river, not hurrying at all. [Edit 2013: if you want to get to the old Guard Station site and Tr#649 to the PCT, in 2011 I found a good log across Kennedy Ck; cross White CHuck R upstream of the confluence, then cross Kennedy Ck usptream of the confluence.] 1:35 LV White Chuck R. on Trail #643 From the point of the confluence, between the two rivers (there's an old signboard there), bushwhack straight uphill for 20-40 yards and you'll hit the trail, can't miss it. I found flags and stakes for the new short repair section (not started yet). I did not cross Kennedy Ck. #643 is heavily built, in fine shape with only a little blowdown. I cleared out a lot of small stuff. As it climbed SE, I found an unexpected fork; I took the left (E), more heavily-built trail. I think this is newer. I'm guessing that the right (W) fork rejoins at the PCT somewhere S of Sitkum Ck (signed junction at PCT; I forgot to note location). 2:45 PCT South of here, a fine flat fast deep-forest walk on cruise control. 4:20 Baekos Ck 4:50 footbridge over White Chuck R, one of the best bridges. Get in Stairmaster mode again and climb up the inner headwall. A couple luscious clearings. Nice camp on PCT about 5400? just as its entering the alpine basins. 6:35 camp DAY 3 9/28/09 9:10 LV camp. You can simply ascend PCT to Red Pass (Portal Peak would be a recommended ascent). I left the PCT, traversing eastwards up the Glacier Peak Meadows, following the upper White Chuck R. This is very pristine country; be careful with your feet. There is a path much of the way. Please don't mess it up. 10:20 LV the White Chuck at 5840' and ascended E or SE to high basin at 6200, then S to ridge notch W of Pt. 6770. Note: if you don't want to scramble the ridge crest, look down south and you'll see the old sheep trail that leads to White Pass. 12:15 back to ridge from ascent of 6770. Followed crest W to White Mt. One crag was bypassed on the south. The crest is an easy scramble, no problem for the corgi. 1:45 White Mt. summit. Saw 2 people at White Pass, the only people I saw after Byrne Lk. No cellphone service at White Pass. 2:10 LV White Mt. summit. 3:00 LV White Pass 5:00 Mackinaw Shelter 7:00 Pilot Ridge Tr jct. 7:45 N Fk Sauk trailhead. North Fork Sauk #649 has seen massive improvements this year by Darrington trail crews, major new stretches and a gorgeous new log bridge over Red Creek, a work of art. I walked this in late July, and the changes since then are amazing! Thank you Darrington! They were working in that heat wave. Water was generally not an issue. I wonder how many hundreds of people clamber over blowdown obstacles that one person can simply shove out of the way fairly easily? Similarly, all those stony sections with loose ankle-turner rocks? What if every passerby removed half-a-dozen of them? 3 days of freedom in ideal weather. Flouting custom, the first raindrops fell as soon as I started the drive home. Just walking the dog.

I'm posting this because *somebody* has to do the bragging for the Darrington Ranger District's trail crews. I hiked North Fork Sauk River Trail #649 in late July and again in late September -- when it wasn't the same trail at all! Massive improvements have been made, including a beautiful bridge over Red Creek and complete re-routing of some flood-prone sections in the upper valley, and the avalanche chute has been cleared of debris. Amazing, a smooth hike out on cruise control. So whatever's been posted previously about bridge out, blowdown, washouts, blah blah, forget it. The avvy chute will always be prone to re-collect debris -- we'll see what winter brings this time -- but Darrington has put tremendous effort into keeping this deservedly popular trail in fine condition. Speaking of collecting debris: rocks are always gonna be falling off mountains, but if every passerby moved, say, half-a-dozen of those ankle-turners off to the outside of the trail -- without rolling them down onto hikers on the switchback below -- we'd all be stepping around or tripping over a lot less of them, wouldn't we? Thanks again to the road and trail crews. I spoke with the upper crew in July. They were about to spend the next several days working on a south slope in that heat wave (103 F in Seattle) without so much as a leaf of shade.