We started out with the plan to hike the Heather Meadows trail from Heart O'the Hills. It's a long drive to Port Angeles, and when we stopped at the National Park office we discovered that the Heather Meadows trail was closed (as was the Lake Angeles trail and the portion of the Klahane Ridge trail beyond the Switchback trail) because of ongoing investigative work due to the plane crash on Hurrican Ridge last Wednesday night. After the long drive, we were greatly disappointed. We didn't want to drive up to Hurricane Ridge with all the hundreds of tourists who would be up there (the Park Office was jammed with people getting ready to do the drive)and so decided that since we'd already come so far we would go further and try a hike on the Elwha River. What a great decision that was! We took the Hurricane Ridge trail from its beginning at 400 feet. It climbs rapidly through forest that is mixed with remnants of old growth (some trees showing signs of an old fire) and second growth that must have appeared after the fire. The first mile has poor tread, a couple of trees down, and is rather hard to walk, especially when coming down. The trail passes two creeks, one at a little over a mile and the other at about two miles. By then, the relentlessness of the steep grade and the darkness of the forest was beginning to make me worry that we had made a mistake. But after the next mile and a half or so the forest began to be truly beautiful, with lots of enormous first-growth firs and finally at 3.8 miles, the trail bursts into a glorious meadow, at about 4000 feet. The views down to the Elwha and Lake Mills and up to endless peaks beyond are overwhelming. We had lunch at the obvious place in that huge meadow, about 500 feet above on the interesting rocks that look from below like the summit of a peak. Of course, from the rocks you can see that you are still quite a distance from the top of the mountain. We had probably climbed over four miles by then, but the trail is 6.1 miles to the top of Hurrican Hill and has 5200 feet of elevation. We realized we had probably done enough if we were to get back at a reasonable hour. Luckily, the descent was much faster and we were back to the car around five. A great workout with a fabulous reward!