Wonderland Trail, Wonderland Trail - Mowich to Longmire & Wonderland Trail - Ipsut Creek to Mystic Lake — Tuesday, Sep. 16, 2025

Just returned from 11 days of Wonderland. Total Miles 126.36 +30,846 elevation gain plus an unbelievable lightning storm that lasted 2 hours directly above us at Carbon River Camp.

With reduced access to Mowich Lake due to the Fairfax Bridge closure, we started with 6 days of food carry and an additional 6.5 miles off trail at Westside Road.

GEOHAZARD: When we returned we learned my 4Runner had been involved in a water outburst slide of rock and mud on the Westside Road that made the evening news. My husband and friend spent 1 1/2 hrs getting through the entrance in the afternoon to come and dig my car out.

PERMIT DAY ENTRANCE: Vehicle backups to the entrance at Nisqually were less than 10 minutes early in the morning as we drove to Longmire and picked up the permit to backcountry camp. As mentioned above in the afternoon, the backups lasted 1 1/2 hrs. During our permit pick-up the ranger there informed us of any hazards and where to find water to filter. We also received rules and reminders of Leave No Trace use and policy.

CACHES: We could only cache at White River and Longmire so arranged to have our husbands meet us at Sunrise and Box Canyon with fresh food and to replenish our carry.

TRIP: We parked at Westside Road and headed to our first Camp at So. Puyallup just 6.5 miles off the start of the Wonderland Trail. We also added a trip around Burroughs 2 to the Glacier Basin Trail that added mileage and elevation gains to our total trip.

WATER: There is no water or bathrooms at Sunrise Visitor Center and at Paradise; just portable bathrooms. At Shadow Lake and Sunrise Camp, there is accessible water but there are a lot of humans and animals around it. Filter all water.

More Pictures Here or are included in each link below.

Our first day of Wonderland we left camp heading for St Andrews Lake and Klapatche Park. Along the way we visited with three women Terri, Samantha and Melinda from San Franciso. We discovered their itinerary was a bit out of the way for them (missing Summerland and Indian Bar) and having to make a detour to Deer Creek quite a distance away and off the Wonderland. I asked if they might want to join us and we decided to meet up at Mystic and discuss the possibility. Having lunch at St Andrews and taking a lot of pictures we made our way to Klapatche. Of course Aurora Lake was pretty dry after the summer we had. Arriving at North Puyallup Camp we were greeted with a sign of a cougar that had had an encounter with a hiker and to beware. It was a warm day around 85 degrees.

The old road, now only accessible by hiking beyond the Westside Road at North Puyallup is what makes the group camp now. The rock walls create a nice camp kitchen and the old road is a flat and durable spot for quite a number of tents. The water source is a bit south of camp and a nice private spot to cool off after a long day.

We wake-up to another warm day and head towards Sunset Patrol Cabin at Golden Lakes. We make friends with Heidi who is hiking alone from Tacoma and several other men who knew each other from college. The area along the ridge is quite a beautiful setting from an old fire decades ago, trees litter the meadow like skeletons marking the event. Tahoma is the backdrop to the east. At Golden Lakes we happen to run into Ranger Patrick who tells us of the approaching weather. Rain, then a lot of rain on Wednesday. 

The South Mowich river crossing is in great shape this year but it has taken its share of people in the past. The river is braided at first at a smaller crossing we ford. Then logs with handrails and finally before camp a few more fords and rock hops. Just at camp the river has decided to reroute its self pretty close to camp. It would be more than intimidating to attempt to ford this.

We hunker down for the night in the shelter thinking about how we just might avoid pine needle soup in our tents over the storm.

The rain arrives today. As we suit-up for the worst, we also heat up in the lingering humidity making our way to Mowich Lake. The crossing at the North Mowich has also diverted and the crews have made an excellent footbridge and handrail to cross. 

Gaining elevation today will be a workout in the heat and rain so we take a lot of water breaks and strip our rain gear along the way. At one water break, I come across the largest salamander I have ever seen. It was at least 6 inches long. 

Lunch at Mowich Lake was surreal without the usual crowds this year as we discuss the incoming storm. Since the weather will cloud our views we decide on taking the Ipsut Pass down to Carbon River route avoiding any storms, lightning or hazards. It is a bit longer but we feel like it is a safe decision.

My Garmin watch dies at 14.12 miles. I hadn't stopped to put it on a charge because I was a bit worried out crossing all the bridges and finding all the cairns at the Carbon area. Not a lot of people have hiked this area this year due to the main bridge closure at Fairfax. Our goal was to make it through the river crossings well before dark in order to see where we were going so we hustled and made it to the Carbon River Camp at sunset.

That's when the storm hit. At sunset we had just arrived, made camp, and gotten water when the rain started. We ate our dinner with large droplets dripping into our meals. About the only think we could do was hang our dirty dishes and utensils and escape to the tent before the thunder started.

At about 8:30 the crackling of lightening was directly overhead for at least 2 hours. The loud booms were unnerving and at one point I sat up in the tent and screamed. I thought the trees were coming down on us. Being from the Pacific Northwest I had never experienced this type of event before right over head. My friend from Minnesota wasn't afraid at all but I was. In all at least 90 strikes were recorded on Rainier this evening.

The next morning we take about an hour to try to dry out our tents. The crossing at the West Fork and views of the Winthrop glacier are spectacular. At Mystic Camp we hope to meet-up with our friends and firm up our plans to share the Indian Bar shelter and camp.  This will be one of the steeper section gains.

As luck would have it we run into our friends from San Francisco. They have a ready made sign for me to meet up with them at their camp. We confirm the spot and that they do not need to make the additional mileage off the Wonderland and get some rest after the storm last evening. 

Another lucky day when we run into a group from the Tacoma Mountaineers. David, Beth and Sue. It was great to see a few people we knew during this tough section. Also met a nice volunteer ranger out all by herself. We talk a bit about the storm which was still fresh on my mind.

Today we meet-up with all our husbands and Lisa M. who is joining us for the remainder of the journey. Our lunch of fresh salad, fresh bread was a wonderful break from the freeze dried meals we've had the last six days.

At Sunrise Camp we run into our SF friends again as they greet us at camp as we resupply our cache from the buckets at White River Camp.

As a side trip we decide to take a more scenic route from Sunrise up the Burroughs and down to the Glacier Basin trail adding a few miles to our days. 

Probably one of the more scenic days we had was this section that reminded me of the tundra or alpine desert. The highlight was the meadow at Summerland and crossing over Panhandle Gap. The views of the surrounding hills, Cowlitz Chimneys, Mt. Adams and the Goat Rocks. Indian Bar was spectacular as we descend to camp below.

At camp we run into another friend Gene and his sister. The report is they are delayed due to a fire just below Summerland that they have called. 

Another highlight at the Cowlitz Divide trail. A family of marmots at lunch fully entertained us and the views were amazing of this side of the mountain I rarely see. 

At Nickel Creek camp we make our connection with Coy's husband Paul who has come with Subway sandwiches!

At Box Canyon we make the .8 down to pick-up our food cache and off load anything we are not wanting in our backpacks. 

In the morning we meet up with a group of three and again discuss the storm since we are traveling in opposite directions. The hike through the Stevens Canyon was a bit of a scramble with ribbons and cairns to follow. The washout finally took down so much of the hill that it was unsafe to cross anymore.

Paradise River Camp is expertly hidden from traffic up the hill with the sign turned. The nice thing about it is the nice river you can cool off in and get your water. The hike to the toilet also keeps day hikers from its use. Egads!

Yup! We stop for lunch here. Good and bad. Good food at the National Park Inn. Bad my car is involved in a mudslide on the Westside Road.

A quiet evening and a busy day hiking 15 miles to the car. Most of today was foggy or rainy. One nice mama and baby deer were very curious at Indian Henry's meadow. 

More Information on this Trip Report

• https://photos.app.goo.gl/Z6jgzgCKrAbALFk59