Glacier Peak — Thursday, Jul. 4, 2024

July 4th to July 6th - Glacier Peak climb

Snow is melting out quick. From when we summited to when we were coming back down, new crevasses were already opening up. At the time we departed the glaciers (July 5th) there were only a handful of visible cracks alongside the route. Snow free from TH to White Pass. White Pass to Marmot Pass has several snowfields. No traction required and generally manageable to cross, however. Marmot Pass to summit is all snow. Plenty of water resources up until White Pass. Not many after that until High Camp. Summit push (last 800ft) has a definitive boot path. Bugs are heavy at White Pass. Surprised at how well maintained the trail is, despite being so remote.

Gear:
Unless you want to ski down, no flotation is required or recommended. Crampons are not needed until you hit the glaciers. Ice axe, of course.

July 4th:
9:30am start at TH
2:30pm arrive at White Pass
7:30pm arrive at Glacier Gap (High Camp)

July 5th:
6:30am start at Glacier Gap
10:20am off rope (summit push)
11:15am summit
2:00pm back at Glacier Gap
4:00pm depart Glacier Gap
7:30pm arrive White Pass

July 6th:
6:45am depart White Pass
11:30am arrive TH