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Decided to attempt the Mt Fremont Lookout before Sunrise opened and crowds start to appear - in short, totally worth it.
Got to the trailhead at White River Campground Parking area (since Sunrise Road is still closed) at 0700. Temp was 51F. Hit the Wonderland Trail at 0715 to take us up to the Sunrise Camp/Sunrise (visitor center) junction. This is probably the most strenuous part of the hike, as you will gain almost 2000 ft of elevation in 2.4 miles. There was a blowdown about 1.8 miles in (approx. 5614 ft elevation) that was easily skirted as end is on edge of trail. There are some patches of snow on the way to the junction, but it comes and goes; in one of the more prolonged sections, it helps to have or know the route. But always goes back to bare/clear trail eventually. There is also a pretty swift creek crossing at the bottom of some seasonal falls, which are running pretty good right now (2.1 miles in at 5820 feet). There are two logs that can help you across, but you will get damp from spray. You might be able to ford it if the logs have gotten knocked away, but that's up to you. You could probably jump across, depending on your agility/comfort.
Once up to the Sunrise Camp/Sunrise junction, it's pretty well snow covered until you get up to the edge of Frozen Lake. We never donned any traction, as the snow wasn't too steep or too frozen. We started off toward Sunrise Camp, but having studied the route, with still-good snow cover, we cut up to the road/trail that lies between the Sunrise Camp and Sourdough Trail (it's not a named road/trail, but exists on all maps and takes you up to the Frozen Lake/Wonderland/Burroughs Trail junction). If still snow covered and won't damage any meadows, it will save you approximately about 1 mile of routing. But if it's melted out, please stay on the trail to protect the meadows (probably only about 1, maybe 2 weeks before that happens). There is pretty easy-to-follow bootpack once on the unnamed road/trail all the way to the Frozen Lake junction.
Once up to the Frozen Lake junction and making the way towards the stairs, the snow is pretty well gone. There are some soggy sections by the lake, but for the most part, it's all exposed and easy to follow trail. It was pretty warm, as there was little breeze along the traverse from Frozen Lake to the Lookout. Be prepared with sun protection and enough water, as there is little of either once past the lake. Also, if it's a clear day (like today), as you make the high corner between Frozen Lake and the Lookout, you can spot the top of Mt. Adams to the south - but only the tip-top of her and you have to look at the right time.
Got to the lookout around 1015. Beautiful day, with views of Tahoma (obviously), Mt. Baker, Sloan, Glacier, Stuart, the Olympics, and could even see Seattle. The falls over below Vernal Park are also flowing, which is pretty awesome to see, especially if you have binoculars - clearly lots of water with long drop, given how far away from the lookout it is (it's to the west). The lookout is currently boarded up and locked (usually locked unless manned by park employees/volunteers), but you can still go up and enjoy the views from the catwalk. Hung out for about 2 hours around the lookout, having some lunch and enjoying the superb day. Then we did some exploring around the lookout before heading down.
It was great to be able to make it up here so early, before it gets crowded with the usual summer Sunrise crowds. Only saw 3 others all day - 2 that had made their way up to the lookout about 1 hour after us, and then briefly one other person (not sure where they had been) that had already crossed the water on the lower part of the Wonderland Trail (never saw them again by the time we finished taking pictures and crossing the water).
Other G2: spotting from the lower trail and having done it in early July before, it looks like there's still some snow on the Sourdough Ridge Trail route. Boots (over sneakers) and poles would probably be helpful if you choose to go that route. Also, wildflowers are barely starting - saw a lot of avalanche lillies getting ready to open, but might be a week or two depending on the weather. Still quite a bit of snow up higher around Sunrise, so that area should bloom be later on (per usual).
By the numbers:
10.2 miles roundtrip
3192 ft elevation gain (7196 ft at lookout)
2 hours 55 minutes to top
2 hours 15 minutes down
Car to car time: 8 hours
Equipment: poles, (GPS, recommend but not necessary)
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Dayhike to Fremont Lookout from White River Campground on 10.27.19 (the road past there to Sunrise is closed). My friend's GPS tracked us at about 12 miles and about 3500' of gain.
ROAD: Suitable for all vehicles. The entrance booth was not manned when we drove in, but we put our America the Beautiful pass out anyway. There was a little ice in the parking lot area. The main bathrooms are closed for the season; there was a pit toilet open on Loop C of the campground.
**NOTE: The road to the campground may be closing or closed by now - the last update on the website said 10.28 was the scheduled closure: https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/road-status.htm
TRAIL: We started off on the Wonderland Trail towards Sunrise, which took us on a steady incline up through the forest. We hit patchy snow which became consistent well before we got out of the forest, and we put spikes on at some point. There was one frozen waterfall that required a bit of a stretch to cross (short legs here!) but we all made it across both times. :)
The snow was deep enough to be annoying without snowshoes at some points, but not deep enough for me to warrant hauling snowshoes. There was actually significantly less snow once we got into the open area close to/past Frozen Lake and on towards the ridge out to the Lookout.
We were the first folks out this way since the last snowfall, and I appreciated having spikes/traction/poles on the ridge area since the trail does traverse the side of a slope with a decent drop and falling there would not be great. We made it without issue, with one or two short moments that someone without much snow experience might find just a little sketchy.
We had the trail to ourselves all day except for one other hiker - when else could one say that about this hike? Haha! We even saw a fox trot by as we were heading up - what a magical moment.
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After Shriner Peak, I headed to the White River Campground to try out a loop I hadn't done before despite having traveled the trails involved dozens of times. I wanted to showcase all the park has to offer on a route that was feasible as a day hike and wasn't an out-and-back. This loop could be done in either direction but I suggest counterclockwise for best views of the mountain while you are traveling along the trails.
From White River CG, I hopped on the Wonderland and made the climb up to Sunrise. This portion of the trip gets a large chunk of the gain done right at the start. The trail is in fantastic shape, the climb isn't too steep and you get to admire the old growth forest as you gain elevation. A little over two miles in, you reach the Sunrise area and take a left on Shadow Lake Trail. Here you are treated to sub-alpine terrain, some beautiful small lakes and a bit of a break from climbing.
Three miles in and just past Shadow Lake, hop on the Burroughs Mountain Trail and begin to ascend the flanks of First Burroughs. This trail is phenomenal with view of Tahoma, the Emmons Glacier, Goat Island Mountain and in the distance Summerland and Panhandle Gap. It is one of my favorite spots in the park and you continue with these views to the summit of First Burrough where you will continue on to Second Burroughs only now you have views of Berkeley Park, Skyscraper Pass and Mountain, Old Desolate and the other various peaks on the north side of the mountain.
Continuing on up Second Burroughs, at the flat summit the views are astounding in all directions. From here I continued on to the junction with Sunrise Nature Trail. You have a choice here to begin to drop down into Glacier Basin or continue to Third Burroughs. If you have the time and energy, I recommend the trip to Third Burroughs as the front row view of the Winthrop Glacier, Inter Basin Glacier and the mountain are top notch.
Once you are done here, return to Sunrise trail and begin the descent to the Glacier Basin trail. This trail swithbacks it's way down into sub alpine meadows and back into old growth forest. Again, you are treated to massive views of Tahoma and the surrounding landscape.
Once on Glacier Basin Trail, it's easy cruising back to the start at the White River Campground. If you are feeling up to it, a side trip up the Emmons Moraine Trail is well worth it.
Total with Third Burroughs is about 13 miles with 4,100' of gain.
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For day two of our weekend of camping at White River Campground, we headed out of camp at 9am to roll up to Sunrise. Gain something like 2000 feet in the three miles out of camp up to the visitor center on excellent tread through some very nice second-growth forest. Hardly saw any people at all until we hit Sunrise, where I accidentally interrupted a Marten eating a mouse at one of the picnic tables. After a snack, we headed out to Frozen Lake, which is basically a tarn on a very windy ridge that has been altered to be a reservoir for the visitor center. The trail along the ridge is lovely, with amazing views of Rainier and the surrounding ridges and basins and peaks. Some serious trail-building and dry stone masonry going on here. We then followed the hoards and headed down to Shadow Lake and the Sunrise Camp. You can barely tell that this area used to house an ill-advised car-campground. The Lake itself is small, shallow, and very pretty. Even with the extensive rehabilitation going on, there are a great many social trails roaming about, and a great many tourists who do not apparently read english. The trip back down to the White River Campground was modestly challenging, as it is very steep and we were getting tired, but it was well worth it.
The gps registered 9.75 miles and 2650 feet of gain for this lollipop. Next time we're out, I want to do the 12+ miles and 3500+ gain associated with the full White River to Sunrise to Glacier Basin Loop.
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JULY 24-25. Hiked the Glacier Basin Loop and camped at Glacier Basin. My goal was views of Rainier and thanks to mostly clear skies, it rocked.
ROUTE
--- Looped starting at White River campground, heading counter-clockwise to get in the most distance on the first day and set up a short morning hike back to the car on the second day
--- Per WTA, the Glacier Basin Loop is 11.5 miles, I'm pretty sure that includes the distance to-from Glacier Basin Camp. In addition, I ventured approx .75 miles into Berkeley Park, for a total of 13 miles
PIC 1
--- Mt Rainier and Tahoma from the top of 2nd Burroughs
--- Another hiker going clockwise mentioned seeing a dozen goats here, but I didn't see any
PIC 2
--- The first of three short snowfields you encounter on the way from Frozen Lake up to 1st Burroughs. I took the pic after crossing it, then looking back downhill to the north.
--- I wore my spikes to cross, but didn't fully need them - several other hikers made it through in running shoes only
--- You can see part of Frozen Lake in the distance, as well as the trail heading up to Fremont Lookout, which I didn't do
PIC 3
--- Standing on a hillside just a couple minutes north of Glacier Basin Camp, which is much closer to the river, and looking up at Rainier
--- At the camp, you're so close to the mountain and the walls heading up to the glaciers that you really see only Mt Rainier peak
--- From the camp, you walk maybe 20 steps to the end of the maintained trail, but the trail continues as a boot trail up another mile or so - another hiker said this got them closer to glacier views - I was too pooped to take it on
--- From the camp, you hear the river roaring by and can walk just 100 steps or so onto the boot trail for a nice spot for lunch overlooking the river and peer up the basin walls and up to the peak
PIC 4
--- Gaia map
--- White River campground is in the lower right
--- At the top, the line extending west was my foray into Berkeley Park. There weren't any wildflowers at all! Apparently when in full bloom it's amazing, but it must be too early or too late in the season. Not to worry, there were several sprinkled along the loop trail.
OTHER CALLOUTS
--- Water sources are plentiful along the three miles from Glacier Basin Camp to White River camp ground. That includes an easy 1-2 minute walk from the Glacier Basin Camp down to the river. There's a tiny pond at Glacier Basin Camp too, though it was clear to the bottom, it looked just a little sketchy
--- Thanks for the White River Ranger station for the awesome and friendly service getting my walk-up permit. For more info on permits and a map of the entire Mt Rainier National Park, see https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/upload/WTP-2017-Pages1-2_access.pdf
Enjoy!