This is a superb backpacking trip and one of my favorites, often referred to as a “loop” that includes a boat ride on Lake Chelan. Although most hiking books start the hike at Stehekin and exit at Holden Village, I have always done it in the reverse, which happens to make for less elevation gain.
The Holden Village bus at this time operates only on Sat. and Sun., which I did not know and I just lucked out, as it was Sat. when I began the hike. Also be aware that there is no wilderness information or updates posted at the Holden TH, although there is at the other end, so check wilderness websites for updates before leaving.
From the TH outside of Holden Village, the trail is a gradual climb of approx. 4 miles to Hart Lake. Don’t pass up Hart Lake, either for lunch or for the night, as it has a wonderful pebble/rock beach, considerably wider in Sept. Very pleasant place to take off boots and rest, and essentially the same milky, light-turquoise color as the lakes above. Great waterfalls beyond Hart Lake. If confused about how to proceed along the trail beyond the campsite at Hart Lake, follow lower rather than higher ground.
Beyond the lake, Rebel Camp offers a campsite in the woods with water source nearby and good flat tree stumps for a stove. Proceeding gradually upward toward Lower Lyman Lake, the trail passes through an area brushy with berry bushes in Sept. Eventually views open across the valley and before reaching Lower Lyman, you will see a truly magnificent broad waterfall. The last mile for us was quite exposed and hot during an unusual Sept heat spell, but much preferred over our experience a few years ago of thunderstorms and continuous rain the entire trip!
Lower Lyman has nice, clean campsites, and a flat rock slab to contemplate the lake and view the waterfall/outlet from the upper lakes. Even the shallow water next to the outlet is milky turquoise color. When we passed through, only one party was camped at Lower Lyman.
Upper Lyman, on the other hand, had a steady flow of people descending from Spider Gap or returning over the Gap, or coming from Suiattle and Buck Creek Passes. People camped anywhere, even near the shallow pools of water where I would have thought it would be prohibited.
Upper Lyman area is stupendous, “other-worldly,” a unique landscape. Rocks, boulders and ground rock paths are pinkish-red and some white, contrasting nicely with milky turquoise water. As one pool spills into another, waterways weave through the basin and around piles of gravel-like ridges, and I found plenty of rock slabs to sit on and stare into space. With binoculars I could see people slowly making their way down the snowfield from the Spider Gap. Low-growing huckleberries among heather don’t seem noticeable at first, but once your eyes focus on the ground, they suddenly appear and we had quite a berry feast.
We hiked two miles back down to Lower Lyman, passing beautiful meadows and interesting rock formations along the way, and then hiked the easy trail to Cloudy Pass. Views from the Pass are spectacular, and on both sides of the trail green meadows lift your gaze upward. I hated to have to pass through so quickly.
We took the longer trails to Suiattle Pass, based on the recommendation of Hiking the North Cascades, but we felt that it added little in exchange for extra mileage. Sure, you see the backside of Cloudy Pass and a smidgeon of Glacier Peak, but it was a bit of a knee-shredder picking our way down the rocks to join the PCT. Next time I’ll take the direct trail to the PCT The so-called Suiattle Pass campsites are terrible. The first is a small, exposed spot of dirt with no water source that I could see. The second, a large swampy area, is very unattractive, and I can’t imagine what it would be like during mosquito season because it was bad enough in September.
The first campsite under Sitting Bull is in an impressive setting and has a great large rock near the trail for sitting and eating. But the tent area must have had a yellow jacket nest nearby because they were swarming about the entire evening, and they got the only exposed area of my skin the following morning as we packed up the tent. Ouch!
Beyond this campsite, a short way along the trail, there is a camping sign posted in an avalanche field. We checked it out, following a rock-lined trail, and found a fire ring and water source but could not imagine attempting to put a tent there because there was no flat ground! Maybe at one time there was flat space. The previous night we had heard a huge rock landslide coming from somewhere and wondered how safe it would be to sleep in an avalanche field.
About 1.5 miles beyond this site, there is a campsite in the woods, up several switchbacks, just beyond the last Sitting Bull avalanche basin. If you plan to sleep here, first fill your water bottles in the basin because the camp has no water. It appeared to have been built primarily for PCT through-hikers, with sitting “benches” and a large fire ring, a sort of communal set up, with room for only a few tents.
We looked forward to sleeping at beautiful Hemlock Camp, about 7 miles after my yellow jacket sting, and we were surprised to find signs posted throughout Hemlock stating that it was not safe to sleep there due to falling trees. (Although there was no info on this at the Holden TH, there was a notice at High Bridge). So we went on to Cedar Camp, comfortable but not particularly attractive. 1.5 miles beyond Cedar, Swamp Creek looked better. We stopped to snack at huge 5-Mile Camp (don’t worry about finding a tent spot) before proceeding to High Bridge.
Although the last 9 miles had several prolonged brushy areas, and offered no views or real beauty, the rest of the hike was stupendous. This time of year, there was no wildlife and no wildflowers, but huge, contorted shapes of all types and colors of mushrooms, as well as bountiful huckleberries in the mid- and upper elevations. I found it a plus to be hiking when the PCT folks were rushing through on their way to Manning Park, as they all had different stories and adventures to tell, including a man traveling the entire trail with his father who had just retired, and two very young siblings. Just after passing 5-Mile Camp, we passed two men in camouflage fatigues & jackets, with rifles prominently displayed, presumably hunters. What a contrast to the other folks we met along the way!