We left Providence, Utah
on the 15th of August with the intention of camping at Lake Byrne. When we arrived at Ellensburg at 5:00 pm it was cool (70) with the usual high winds and a little cloudy over the Cascades. The forecast called for improving conditions after the weekend, so we continued over the mountains hoping to find a motel room, but alas, they had all been taken by Tiger Woods and his followers. We finally found a nice private campground in Darrington late Saturday night on the southwest edge of town. On Sunday we noticed the clouds breaking up to the north so we took a little trip up to Rockport and Sauk mountain. At the trailhead for Sauk mountain the flowers were pretty much gone but there was some beautiful paintbrush. Most of the view was non-existent also, except for Whitehorse and Puget Sound, which was good enough. We visited Rockport State Park and were amazed-not only by the incredible forest but because of the lack of people. The skies seemed to be clearing out at night, and we expected good weather on Monday, but we awoke to rain once again. We traveled north with the intention of heading back to the sunny east side, but we could not resist the temptation to stay at Rockport State Park. Although it rained most of the day on Monday, we had a wonderful time wandering through the rain forest, not meeting a single person on the trails. On Tuesday we found the skies were completely gray in every direction. I told my friends we could head east and we would be guaranteed sunshine. They didn't quite believe me, but went along anyway. At granite creek the sky was still solid gray and even I began to have my doubts. However, at Washington Pass we suddenly broke through to bright sunshine. We drove to Road's end trailhead (about .5 mile before the campground) and headed up the trail. At 1 mile there is adequate water coming from small springs. At 1.5 miles there is a larger stream coming down from Gilbert mountain. We camped at 1.6 miles next to the river. To reach the camp, go along the copper pass trail about 100 yards and then turn left. There is just enough rooom here for three small tents. We could see the fog trying but failing to push over copper pass. The next day was again bright and clear and we continued on to Twisp Pass, carrying a gallon of water as there is none along this 2.5 miles of trail. The flowers were mostly gone, as at Sauk mountain, but again there was beautiful scattered paintbrush and the huckleberries were outstanding. The north side of the Twisp River valley has sparse greenery but the south side has lots of green avalanche brush and trees, reminiscent of the Buck Creek Pass trail. At the pass we took the sidetrip 1/2 mile south to the magical surprise which is worthwhile-the first time I had seen Larch trees. There are too many trees at the pass to get a good view-you must climb north or south along the ridge to see Bridge Creek, Dagger Lake, Goode mountain, and Formidable. We continued 1 mile west down to Dagger Lake. Along the trail there is a noticeable increase in greenery as compared the area east of Twisp pass, and the flowers were beautiful near the little streams and springs. Fishing is good at Dagger Lake, but the fish are small. Dagger Lake is a good destination for groups with limited abilities or time. We had an eight year old girl with us and it was a perfect hike for her. There is also a firepit and grate at Dagger Lake which came in handy, because one of our stoves died on Wednesday night. The next morning, some of us continued on to Stilleto lookout while others stayed at the Lake and some went up to Twisp pass to get huckleberries. The trail that goes toward the lookout is obvious on the north side of Twisp pass. From Twisp pass, it is two miles to the lookout site-if you are Superman. For humans that cannot fly it is four miles, perhaps a little more depending on the route you take. The trail leads in about 1/2 mile to a small lake that is in the park. There is a campsite near the lake with a fire ring so I assume that it is in the national forest where camping is legal and not in the park where it is not. The tread is good for about 2 miles where the trail reaches the outlet stream of a large lake set high in the cliffs in mountains to the north. To reach this lake, which is not on the way to the lookout, you must go around cliffs either to the east or west. We headed up to the pass west of the outlet stream and then traversed back northeast towards the lake. There is a fairly good trail that we picked up at the lake that took us back out, but it peters out in meadows. At the outlet stream the trail to Stilleto lookout disappears. We tried to find a way around the pass to the west of the stream, but could not, so we headed up the pass. After topping the pass, head down to a little creek where there is good and legal camping for a party of six or less. West of the little creek is a short rise over which another creek can be seen below. Instead of going down to the creek, stay high and traverse towards the northwest, where you will find a shelf that stays above steep rock. Beyond this shelf the lookout can be seen, marked by a metal pole about 5 feet high with a rock on top. The views are good along the whole route and become tremendous as you reach the pass. The view from the lookout is beyond anyone's ability to exaggerate. Bonanza and Dome Peak are quite different from the perspective one gets from Plummer mountain on Miner's ridge- there is much more ice from this side. The real star of the show is Macgregor Mountain-draped by the Sandalee glacier. It doesn't seem to be the same mountain as the dry steep mass seen from Stehekin. Closer by, views of the spires rising above copper creek are awesome and a little scary. On Friday morning thunderstorms came through, which lasted about six hours, so we had to walk out in the rain. We noticed that some of the brush had been cleared since we had come up the pass on Wednesday-we did not see any stinging nettle. We saw a few bears from a distance romping in the huckleberries. Although this hike has quite a bit of elevation gain, there are places to camp along the way that break up the grind, making it a good trip for first-time backpackers, of whom we had five in our group.