First part of the hike (Spray Park) was the most beautiful place I have ever visited. It's a gem, and the hike up and back down (8 miles) will be enough to brighten a bad day, and it's a good workout on its own.
Coming down from Spray Park I was notified of a black bear (no Grizzlies in Rainier) and apparently a cub. I whistled and made noise with my trekking poles the whole way down, and didn't see them. Don't be afraid of bears! Just make some noise to let them know you are near. The black bears around here are more afraid of us.
The Second Half: I was in over my head. After crossing the suspension bridge for the detour, take a left, you'll be going downstream and will eventually cross back across water 3 times. Log bridges are in place. Follow the cairns through the dry part of the river bed. In what seems like forever, you'll reach the beginning of Ipsut pass. I got here around 3:45. Any hikers I passed looked at me in disbelief when I asked "how far to the top?". When nearing the pass, you won't see any pass. You'll see a wall of mountain. Don't cry. Eat a meal, eat some carbs. Take some breaks. You can do it. There are dangerously steep portions here where the gravel can get unstable. Be careful.
I started at Mowich at 9:39 and returned at around 6:30.
Trekking poles, at least 3L of water, 10 essentials and 4wd required for this one. I also wish I'd started earlier. A big congratulations if you finish this one. There's only one way to go when you're tired after all: forward.