We spent the weekend of the 4th of July hiking around Stehekin. It's a very special place and I would encourage everyone to visit.
We left on Wednesday afternoon and camped at Daroga State Park near Chelan. Thursday saw us on the Lady Express. We disembarked at Stehekin Landing, made a dash to the Golden West Visitor Center to get camping permits, and hopped on the 11:00 shuttle bus to High Bridge, our base for the next two nights. Bill the hilariously cantankerous driver took us to High Bridge with a stop at the legendary bakery to pick up lunch to go.
The hike to Agnes Gorge is nice but not astounding. There's a scary section if you're afraid of heights where the narrow path hugs a sheer cliff overlooking a bend in the gorge. Occasionally the forest opened up to give us a look at Agnes Peak, which we would see in all glory the next day.
Friday we got up to hike McGregor Mountain. The trail information indicated that there was little to no water on the trail, and we spent a lot of time attempting to refill a bottle using a filter on the scummy Coon/Howard Lake. This was a waste of time as there are several creeks near the trail. There is a dry stretch of 2-3 miles after Coon Lake, but we found regular water sources further up the trail. This hike is great because you get out of the trees and into the wide-open views early.
We encountered steep snow at around 6400' and turned back shortly after that because we did not have the gear for steep snow travel. The views up to that point over the North Cascades were phenomenal and we did not meet a single other hiker on the trail. Despite the elevation gain, the trail didn't feel too grueling due to the numerous switchbacks.
The next day we took the shuttle back into Stehekin, with another bakery stop, and hiked Purple Pass. This was the only 'meh' day for me. Because of the shuttle schedule, we didn't get on the trail until 11:00, and the sun was already fierce. Treeline is high on this trail, switchbacks are relentless, and views over Lake Chelan are tantalizing but always partially blocked by dry trees. The brush is out of control; I was wearing shorts and got scratched pretty badly while whacking through the knee-deep growth. We met a couple of NPS trail maintenance workers low on the trail who had cleared the brush and blowdowns up to that point. They said they were the only workers in the district this year due to the sequestration We got to about 6500' before reaching our turnaround time. I'd recommend this hike only if you can start early enough to reach Boulder Butte, which previous trip reports recommend.
On Sunday we made a last visit to the bakery and the Garden, a small farm and creamery. The farmer sells goat milk lassis with banana and carob. This might sound scary but they are delicious.
Beautiful weather all weekend with the exception of a brief thunderstorm and downpour late on Saturday night.
Photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/laurajacobsen/sets/72157634583998419/