Redid a little section of the wonderland that was socked in on my 2019 wonderland thru-hike, mowich lake to golden lakes  

The South Mowich river bridge is out and the crossing is pretty difficult, the water is running fast and deep. I saw several groups that tried to cross soon after me who weren’t able to make it, and had to camp by the river and wait for the water level to go down overnight before attempting again the following morning.

I crossed twice- once at about noon and again at about 9am on the way back. The water was slightly lower at the 9am crossing. I used the wire that goes across the river by the old bridge to cross the first time, and the second time I crossed on a fallen log and then through several broken up braids of the river slightly upstream from the bridge. I felt that the wire was secure but apparently rangers are recommending not to use it because it’s user made. They are instead recommending a .5 mile detour (.25 miles each way) to where the river is slightly lower… but apparently still wasn’t low enough for some groups to make it, and I heard others say it wasn’t much better up there anyway.  

Lots of bear scat in and around my camp and one bear siting in the morning at golden lakes. The outhouse is in pretty rough shape from heavy use- the flies were swarming inside and almost made me wish it was just open air. There was a large group of people hanging out and swimming by golden lakes most of the afternoon who were slightly loud... Yes, I could hear you say that “I hope the guy fishing across the lake doesn’t murder me tonight in my sleep.” 🧐  The lake was very buggy, biting flies, horseflies and mosquitoes everywhere, but they didn’t bother me too much. They seemed worse in the morning. Beautiful views of the mountain from my little fishing spot at the northwest corner of the lake that the social group missed out on, and could hear little avalanches from the mountain all afternoon. 

Returned to a flat tire at the trail head! still a great trip. 

For our first backpacking trip of the season (i.e., a check-that-all-your-systems-are-in-Go-position trip) we spent a couple nights at Ipsut campground. There are a variety of fantastic day hikes from there, but we opted for what we suspected would be reachable in early July: Mowich Lake via Ipsut Pass. First, I'll give the basics, then the frilly details.

The flat five-mile hike to the CG was obstacle-free and the CG was pretty quiet as of yet (mid-week and early in the season). Numerous sites were unoccupied, though some are much nicer than others. It appears that Park rangers are still in the process of clearing and re-designating campsites, as a number of winter blowdowns rendered several sites unusable. The ones nearest the river are the nicest--get there early in the day  to snag one (you need a reservation). When we checked in for our reservation, the ranger advised us to get our water from Ipsut Creek rather than the Carbon River, because of the silt--to preserve our water filter. So, plan on taking the .25 mile walk to Ipsut Falls, past the CG, to fetch water. The water is lovely there!

Our 11-mile RT hike the next day was up Ipsut Pass and on to Lake Mowich. The trail up the pass is clear--no blowdowns! No snow! There are several areas right as you leave the forest and enter the open valley (where the heart of the ascent to the pass begins) where streams are running down the trail, but you can easily rock hop.  My feet stayed dry. The trail as a whole is a steady climb, and you'll need to watch your footing--lots of roots and rocks. I found the way down tougher, actually, especially along the open part--dry dirt and scree makes for slippery going. Bring poles, unless you belong to the Elastic Knee Club. The trail between the pass and the lake has several blowdowns at this writing, though all are easily step-overable. At the lake, there is intermittent snow that's still several feet deep. We just hoofed it up to the road once we got near the lake and walked the rest of the way. The CG is clear and dry, the outhouses practically places of worship compared to the infernal shacks down at Ipsut CG. (Although, to be fair, Mowich is more difficult for the crowds to access for year-round).

Details: Ipsut Pass has an INCREDIBLE variety of wildflowers, and they seem at their height right now. I felt as if I saw half the plants and flowers featured in my wildflower book! Among the ones I saw were columbine, Columbia lily, glacier lilies, larkspur, lupine, vanillaleaf, cow parsnip, goatsbeard, bear grass, little yellow violets, Queen's cup, bunch berry, salmon berry, ocean spray, harsh paintbrush, phlox, bleeding hearts, penstemon, western false bugbane, and MORE! 

Wildlife: on the Carbon River trail to the CG and in the CG itself, we saw a number of deer, including a beautiful young fawn. I think there is little so lovely as the bouncy youth of a young, fragile fawn.

Happy hiking, Everyone!

We backpacked from Mowich to Longmire CCW, the westside of the Wonderland Trail during the heat of COVID summer 2020.

Leaving Mowich Lake Sunday 8/16/20 at 10 am and crossed the North Mowich footbridge about 3 hours later. After a short break to filter water we headed to the South Mowich crossing.

VIDEO HERE of Mowich starts about 2 minutes into the video.

The crossing was becoming dangerous as we could hear rocks tumbling under the muddy river. The footbridge has a railing halfway and at the point where there should be more railing the bank had washed away as of this week. I am not sure what has been repaired there but a man lost his life Wednesday 8/19/20.

I had a hard time getting reliable information on the Wonderland Trail and found The Wonderland Trail Facebook Group is really active with up to date information. If you want to join, make sure you answer the questions and the folks on there are super helpful.

One thing I would like to mention in advance is the lack of trail etiquette to uphill backpackers displayed this year especially by trail runners. If you are a trail runner, in general what I observed was organized groups hopping off trail and running down the sides in the fragile vegetation.

Here is what you should do. Stop, step to the side, cover your mouth and face, be respectful.  I will do the same for you, I promise.

If you were running with a large supported group, I asked a few support people why their runners were allowed to do this and was told their company respects the environment and educates their participants, so it is not lack of education, it is not wanting to.

Here's a rundown:

At Golden Lakes there is plenty of water and the backcountry, permit-only campsites are in good shape. There is a great place to catch a sunset just south on the Wonderland out of camp a mile at Sunset Park. Toilet is an outhouse.

Heading through Sunset Park the next morning was really spectacular and an easy way to break-in the legs for the next day.

Aurora Lake, Klapatche and St. Andrews were amazing but a lot of insects. I was surprised to see Aurora Lake still with plenty of water this late. Toilet an outhouse.

At the South Puyallup backcountry camp and crossing there was no issues, but again just a trickle of water. The toilet is quite a ways away from all the campsites but #1 is the closest to bear pole, the water and toilet, an open pit.

The views CCW of Emerald Ridge, the Tahoma Glaciers and Rainier are wonderful. The suspension bridge was in good shape. There is little water through this section but a small trickle down an unmaintained trail just So of the Tahoma.

Heading up to Indian Henry's there is a nice creek for water and throughout the Hunting Ground prior to the patrol cabin. Behind the cabin there is a pond. There were many insects and an abundance of wildflowers.

If you are going to Devil's Dream there is no water. Get water at Squaw Lake or Indian Henry's. Also DD is notorious for insects but we didn't have a big problem there.

Pyramid Creek has had some issues to cross in the past but our major issue was the Kautz. It had completely raised and spilled over at least 5 places we had to rock hop with our heavy packs. WE did get wet and had to use the small alders to hang on to as we crossed in order to keep our balance.

Back to Longmire safely 4 days and 3 nights.

I will put the details of my awesome hike a little further down but wanted to put in some important early season info and road trailhead status as it was a little scarce in my research before heading up to the area. The road alerts for hikes in this area are currently wrong/incomplete. Mowich Rd is open but still has winter gate closed 5 miles from the Mowich Lake CG.  Carbon River Road is open up to right before the trailhead where it washed out and there are now porta potties at the barricade and people park on the road and walk the extra 100 feet or so to TH. Paul Peak TH parking and facilities open.  My feet touched Paul Peak trail, Wonderland from South Mowich to Mowich Lake and the Mowich Rd past the gate closure.  Other headings I added, particularly Tolmie Lookout because I think there are people driving up that think it is summer conditions up here which it is not.

Mowich road is open, clear and overall good except for a few intense pothole sections up to the Paul Peak Trailhead. All types of cars (I saw a minicooper) were making it fine, some just going slow. The winter gate is still closed, blocking the last 5 miles of road to Mowich Lake campground because about 2.5 miles further it is still totally snow covered. The Paul Peak Trailhead parking area is open, restrooms are open, clean and stocked, and there are trash cans and picknick tables. There is about 4-6 feet of snow at Mowich Lake and 2-3 feet of snow most places on the last 3/4 mile of Wonderland leading up to it. Consistent snow is at 4500-4600 feet in this area. You will have to hike uphill on 2.5 miles of snow vis the road just to Mowich Lake if that is your goal, let alone a hike further on such as Tolmie which is even higher elevation. If you don’t mind a long hard slog over slushy but still deep snow then maybe you want to try it. If you want a nice dry, beautiful day on Rainier trails consider an out and back on Paul Peak down to the Mowich River.

I planned to do this as a hike/trail run last minute as the day turned out nice and I was getting off an overnight shift in Puyallup (and had gotten a good long nap) so was already nearby. Was not as prepared as I usually would be (would have brought my collapsible poles) but did have water filter, my in reach for emergencies and maps of the area loaded on my phone. I knew there was snow at the lake and some snow leading up on my route thanks to the National Park Backcountry report but said 10 % and mostly at lake. I did Paul Peak Trail down to the Wonderland, took that to South Mowich Crossing and then back up on Wonderland to Mowich Lake and looped back on Mowich lake rd to Paul Peak TH.

Paul Peak trail was good condition and had some really neat views of Ranier and the Mowich River on the way down. Went past the intersection of the Wonderland on to South Mowich Campground (bridge across N. Mowich in, campground all set with pole and open outhouse) and the further down to the South Mowich River to see if you could cross. The NP report said bridge out and you must navigate 3 channels on various trees. I crossed 2 channels but could not find a safe way across the last, did not try for super long, explored the river area upstream a little more then turned around. 
Was a little ambivalent about trying to loop up to the lake or just go back the way I came. I am a sucker for a loop hike so chose the latter, thinking even though it was longer it would be an easy last five miles of downhill road I could run. The right choice in not to do the loop unless you want adventure, challenge and about 3 plus miles of exhausting travel over still deep spring condition snow. Snow started about 2.25 miles up from the intersection with Paul Peak trail. This was about 4600 ft. Went from no snow to consistent rapidly on approaching the crossing of Crater creek. I grabbed a stick I found and used it as a hiking pole to help in the snow. Crater Creek is massive, there are two log bridges to cross but the trail between is free flowing creek, not dangerous to cross but plan on wet feet that will have to plunge back into hiking in snow once you get across. Little break in snow for few hundred feet but it got consistent again as it approached the intersection with Spray Park trail. Could see the sign at the intersection but the last 1/4 mile from there to the campground was the deepest snow yet. When I emerged victoriously at the  campground I found 4-6 feet of snow, could barely see the lake as it is mostly snow covered (at least from the vantage from the road) and didn’t explore much because I realized there would be no easy road running anytime soon. Road was entirely snow covered 3-4 feet until 2 miles down. I figured out a way to kind of slide jog once it was a little firmer and downhill past the lake but it used a lot of energy. Would imagine it is a ton of work hiking up. Breaks in the snow after that but still quite a lot, didn’t really get clear road to run on till 2.5 miles down and at an elevation below 4500 ft. Rest of run on road was easy and road was in great shape. Really neat day, none of the snow dangerous to cross just worried I was going to tire out. Overall took a little less than 5 hours, will link the route on Strava below. Nice reminder about how late summer comes to the high country up here, can’t wait to return later this year when winter is really gone.

Hiked from Mowich lake to Golden lakes via Mowich river and back. The highlights were crossing the Mowich rivers.

About 22 miles, a long day, only saw five other happy faces that day.