Ethan and I set off from the Phelps Creek trailhead at 7 am under sunny skies, although it was a little shady in the valley. From the parking lot, we could see Maude and 7fJ, our destinations. We quickly turned off onto the Mt. Carne route. With three days of gear, a map, and only a general plan, we quickly ascended Mt. Carne, doing almost 2,000 ft vertical per hour. Carne basin was lovely with a bubbly little creek and a nice campsite. We dropped our packs at the pass just south of Carne and quickly reached the top. The top had nice 360 views, but we paid specific attention to the Carne high route we would be taking to Ice Pass. The Carne High Route was surprisingly well marked and easy to follow. For routefinding, it was quite easy. Beautiful views along the hillside. You actually cross 4 or 5 basins and creeks, each lovely and charming. If these basins were women, Carne basin would be my secret mistress, and Box and Chimpmunk and all the other basins would be my casual, open friends. All pretty but privacy can be nice. After the last creek crossing, we took the shortcut towards Ice Pass via the saddle to the NE around 7400 ft. This was when we really went off trail for the first time. By this time, it was a little after noon so we were starting to wear down. The last traverse to Ice Pass was a little tricky, as it required a long traverse/climb of a steep loose rock field. We didn't really want to do that with packs, so we attempted to cross a rocky ledge just above the rock field. When we arrived however, it was more difficult that we expected due to the weight and bulk of our packs. We had to make one sketchy class 3 move, but that was mostly because of the exposure. Still, I've seen more exposure at a high school dance or a cross country practice. But it's sometimes nice to get the blood pumping and heart racing. After that, it was a steep ascent to the Pass. We reached it around 1:30, enjoying beautiful views of the Ice Lakes, the Spectacular Butts, and of course, Mt. Maude. These views could even make an SI swimsuit photographer jealous. Maybe they should do one in the Cascades. I'd buy that issue. Overall, it was about 5000 ft gain and 8 or 9 miles to the pass.
After lunch and a short nap, we decided to summit Mt. Maude. From Ice Pass, Maude is not merely “an exhilarating walkup.” It is a huge shoulder, bigger than even Mr. Universe's when he's on steroids, bigger than any open hillside I've climbed before. The main obstacle in this feat was actually getting up to the shoulder because you have to skirt some cliff bands. We went to the east of the cliff bands, ascended a few snowfields and then scrambled for about ten minutes. On the way back down, we just slid down steep loose rock slopes and snowfields. We didn't even need our microspikes on the way up. Once the reach the shoulder around 8,000 ft, it is a straightforward climb, although tiring. I started to wane under the influence of altitude. My steps became wobbly and I had trouble speaking. I was getting extremely high, higher than your average hipster in Seattle! Ethan gave me some “energy pills” and I suddenly felt better. With new mental and physical acuity, we pushed on. We made it to the top in 80 min from Ice Pass. Absolutely amazing summit views. Over 9,000 ft!! You can see Rainier, Baker, Fortress, Glacier Peak is huge, 7FJ and Fernow are close by, Bonananza is looming in the distance. We had a nice shirtless photo session. The thin high altitude atmosphere allowed a greater percentage of the sun's rays to reach the ground, illuminating our chiseled bodies. Hike for the booty! Hike for the body! As I said before, this would be a great place for an SI swimsuit cover. We could see a fire starting on the next ridgeline over, but because of the west wind, it was of no concern. However, hiking up a mountain in a fire would be a real booty burner, in more ways than one.
On our way down, we stopped by Upper Ice Lake, which was mostly unfrozen. On the way down, we had some nice long boot skis and glissades (the opposite of a booty burner, more like a fanny freezer) Absolutely serene and mystical sitting on rocks by the lake. We filtered a few gallons of water, relaxed, and even took a short dip. The sun was shining and although it was into the evening, still in the 70s. Next, we hiked 500 ft uphill back to the pass. After 7500 ft of gain that day in 12 or 13 miles, we decided to make dinner. We had some delicious cous cous, apple cider, and watched the sun set. It lowered below Fortress Mountain, like an army retreating behind its castle. “War?” it seemed to say, “No such thing today! Let peace reign!” Glacier Peak turned pink as the sky turned yellow, red, purple, and everything in between. What an end to the day.
I woke up around 5 and poked my head out. Unfortunately, clouds had moved in, obscuring the sunrise I desired. Also, the wind had switched direction, bringing in some smoke and haze that we did not want. This switch was not forecasted so I began to feel uncomfortable about the weather. We ate breakfast, packed up, and headed out by 7. We descended via the Leroy High Route, which was much easier. We reached Leroy Basin around 8, contemplating a 7fJ attempt, but decided against it because we felt a few drops. By the time we reached Phelps creek, it was pouring with no sign of stopping. At this point we decided to cut the trip short a day and leave that day. So we found a dry place under the trees and proceeded to feast on our extra food. We had a feast that would have made the Very Hungry Caterpillar jealous. Caterpillars are very interesting creatures. The transition period between caterpillar and butterfly is very mysterious biologically and spiritually. But that is a conversation for another day. After a huge meal and a nice nap under the trees, we walked up to Spider Meadows. I would've loved to spend the second night there and venture to Spider Gap, but the weather did not cooperate. It was very pretty and serene with all the clouds, but also a little wet so we headed back. Then we picked up our packs and made for the car, reaching the car a little after 2 in the afternoon. Overall, about 25 miles, 8000 ft elevation gain in a little over 30 hours. A difficult, wet, but amazing trip.