Did an overnight from Fryingpan Creek Trailhead over Panhandle Gap to Box Canyon, with a stay at Indian Bar.  Good weather for the first day with lovely views between Summerland and Indian Bar.  While snow is present over the gap and through Ohanapecosh Park, nothing that is difficult to cross, especially with hiking poles.  Wildflowers were booming both North and South of Indian Bar, a bit subdued around Summerland.  Marmots are very active around the pass and, although we heard of bear activity, we didn't encounter any signs.  Only bugs were on the way down for about 1000 feet above Nickel Creek.  Otherwise, surprisingly bug free.  Great time to go!

This is a trip report for an amazing 34 mile loop in Mount Rainier National Park, the Owyhigh Lakes Loop.  The loop has a bit of it all, lush old growth forest, sub-alpine meadows, an airy ridge section, a taste of the alpine, waterfalls and in good weather, some of the most magnificent views of the mountain.  It can be approached in several different manners and start points as there is access to the loop in three major spots and can be tackled anywhere from a day hike/run to a multiple day affair as it has several camping sites along the way.

Per my normal style, I decided to do it as a single day route.  From my previous trips in the area, I knew there would be considerable snow lingering on the Cowlitz Divide, Indian Bar, Panhandle Gap area.  To play it safe, I brought along an ice axe, traction and poles as well as more layers than I usually would bring on this trip.  This added considerable weight (to me) in my pack and I estimated it would take me between ten and twelve hours to complete, especially if I ran into a lot of snow.

Forecast was good for the day according to multiple weather sites but as I drove to the park, it was gloomy and misting.  My hope at this time was I would get above the clouds or eventually the sun would burn them off.  To give myself more time for that to happen, I started at the very small trailhead for Owyhigh Lakes Trail off Hwy 123 ( 46.8337, -121.5350 ). I would travel clockwise so that the first 13 or so miles would be along the Eastside Trail and the Cowlitz Divide Trail which was preferable in the moody weather.  I pulled up to the trailhead around 6:45 and was quickly on the trail.

With fresh legs and a slightly descending trail, I was able to trot the first seven miles of the route comfortably.  The Eastside trail is in great shape and because it’s relatively non-technical, an individual has ample opportunity to take in the sights of the forest and creek.  There are plentiful water sources along this section and I got away on this entire trip with carrying just a 12 oz soft flask that I filled frequently.  However, because of the time of day and the recent precipitation, the brush lining the trail was loaded with water and in no time, I was soaked from the waist down.  I wasn’t concerned about my feet as I had given them a liberal coating of Trail Toes (the stuff is amazing!) but I was kicking myself for wearing jogging pants and not starting with just shorts on.  The underbrush continued for most of this section so if you are going to hit it early morning, just note that you might face the same conditions.

I chose to bypass the Grove of Patriarchs on this trip but it would make a nice little sidetrip on this loop.  At about mile seven, you hit the junction with the Cowlitz Divide Trail and the climbing begins.  The sign says it is 4.3 miles to the junction with the Wonderland but my GPS always comes up around four miles.  In that distance you will climb a bit over 2,600’.  Like the Eastside Trail, this one was lined with loaded underbrush and the soaking continued.  But no major obstacles encountered.  A couple of blowdowns to get around or over.  Here it started to rain again and I considered turning around but decided to plow on, holding faith that I would get some blue skies.  There were some small patches of snow just past the campground but nothing major. 

At about mile 11, I hit the junction with the Wonderland and begin to travel northbound (take a right).  I expected to start seeing snow in this area but it was thankfully melted out.  Here you take the final climb to the ridge that is the Cowlitz Divide.  It remained socked in as I climbed up to about 5,600’ and I resigned myself to a cloudy day.  When that happens, I typically just put my head down and start plowing on.  Which is unfortunate as the four or so miles from there to Indian Bar are among some of my favorite along the Wonderland.  A little over a mile from the junction with the Cowlitz Divide Trail, the snow began to show up and by two miles from the junction, the ridgeline was completely covered in snow.  Given the softness of the snow, my traction stayed in the pack but as we all know, it’s a lot harder to travel across mushy, mashed potato snow and I found myself starting to use a lot more energy. 

I must say at this point, if you do not have solid navigation skills, that waiting a few weeks for this all to melt out is probably the best option.  There was not a boot path in this section and I can see where folks might wander off trail and get themselves in a bit of trouble, especially in inclement weather. 

I trudged on, continuing to try and be optimistic that the sun would eventually win out.  Then as I closed in on Indian Bar, I saw my shadow ahead of me!  Sure enough, just as I got to one of my favorite views in the park, the clouds parted.  My spirits buoyed, I boot (trail runner) skied down the snow slopes to Indian Bar.  In the basin, the snow had melted out and thousands of avalanche lilies dotted the landscape.  My mood soared at this point as I love those little flowers.  I moved slowly through here hoping that I would get a bear sighting but no such luck.  Then the steep climb up towards Panhandle Gap began. 

The first 600’ of climbing is snow free and again, the avalanche lilies were everywhere.  I think it is the most I have seen in this area since I did the loop in July of 2017.  Then it was back on snow, and I was kick stepping my way up the ridge.  Absolutely tiring but the views made all the effort worth it.  My spikes and ice axe stayed in my pack due to the soft snow and my comfort level on this kind of terrain but again, if you are not use to this kind of travel, probably best to wait this out.

The traverse from the top of the climb over to the Gap was completely covered in snow as well.  Slipping and sliding as I sidehilled made this very challenging but because of the sun in this section, I don’t believe microspikes would have even done a bit of good in the sloppy snow.  Some of the sections are somewhat steep but the runout is pretty tame so again I just relied on poles and not my ice axe.

Finally, I got to the Gap, just as the clouds rolled in again.  Boo.  This section was the area I was most curious about as it can be pretty steep when snow covered.  However, because of the soft snow, it was easily traversed and within a minute or two, I wondered why even do the traverse at all and cut straight down the slope, utilizing boot skiing.  Most of the upper section above Summerland is still snow covered and I do want to point out, there is a section of undercut snow here that should not be taking lightly.  I opted to quickly cross it but in the coming days it will get thinner and thinner.  Hopefully the rangers will soon put the bridge back up over Fryingpan Creek.

Finally, right above Summerland, I was on terra firma for good and had six or seven easy miles to make up some time I had lost.  Summerland was relatively quiet but I did end up putting on my mask in this area.  Wildflowers are starting to bloom here and the green I know and love about the area is making an appearance. There is a snow patch or two on the switchbacks but nothing of significance and the rest of the trail is in great shape.

At the trailhead, I jogged the road to the Owyhigh Lakes trail and prepared myself for the last climb of the day.  Given the amount of cars in the parking lot at the trailhead, I opted to keep my mask on for this section.  Fortunately, the grade for this trail is more mellow than some of the previous climbs and powered by some pancakes, honey and water, I powered up it faster than I anticipated.   Again, plenty of water sources along this trail.  After three and a half miles, you are deposited in a glorious mountain meadow, flanked by rocky ridges and dotted with wildflowers.  Again, my wishes for a bear sighting were not granted.  As you pass the lakes, you will hit a couple of snow patches but again, pretty small. 

Then began the long descent to the Eastside Trail and my finish.  This trail is a bit rougher than some of the other portions along this route but the views up high are fantastic.  As you drop below the treeline, you will have three blowdowns that are significant and take some work to get around or over.  Plentiful water sources on this stretch.  Finally, it was the half mile climb back up to 123 and the finish.  Just under ten hours which surprised me given how much work the day had been!

Ended up being a fantastic day and I was very glad I ended up sticking with the route.  If you do this one soon, I do recommend traction, poles and maybe an ice axe given your comfort with snow travel especially if you hit the snowy sections early in the morning when the snow might be more firm.  I suspect it will take the Divide and Gap area another two to three weeks to melt out. 

Trip totals, 34 miles with 8,300’ of gain.

I wanted to spend some quality time on one of my favorite sections of the Wonderland: Cowlitz Divide through Indian Bar over Panhandle Gap and down to Summerland.  My initial idea was to make a loop of it using the Owyhigh Lakes, Cayuse Pass, PCT and Laughingcreek Trails but once up on the Divide, I felt that an out and back of this incredible section of trail was more fitting for the day.

Parked at the Grove of Patriarchs TH about 6:30 AM.  Hit the Eastside trail down to Silver Falls then made my way up the Cowlitz Divide trail.  This trail is in good shape with a blowdown to get around but that's about it. Not many water sources though (one near the campground up higher).  In short order, I was on the Wonderland and the views began to open up as I cleared the treeline.

Fall colors are just getting started and as you travel north on the Wonderland, the views of Tahoma are first rate.  Wound my way up and down the Divide before dropping down into Indian Bar.  Had a snack and filled up on water here before making the steep climb out of Indian Bar towards Panhandle Gap.  This stretch is just so dang good as you enjoy alpine meadows, expansive views, tumbling waterfalls, glaciers and of course the ever present volcano.

Panhandle Gap is free of snow and again, what a treat dropping down into Summerland.  I will never tire of this area.  Once below Summerland, I turned around and took it all in traveling the other direction.   A bit of a price to pay for all these views though was the up and down.  By mile 22, I had nearly 9,000' of gain for the day!  But not long after, it was the long downhill back to my car.

Should mention, had a great bear sighting on my return at Indian Bar.  At first they ran away but seemed to become curious and watched me for a while as I watched it.  Beautiful animal. 

30 miles total.  9,000' of gain in a little over nine hours. 

This is a report for Indian Bar via Fryingpan Creek and Summerland (about 17 miles out and back). The WTA site would not let me tag this route specifically.

Trail to Summerland and Panhandle Gap is in perfect shape, this is mostly a report on the trail between Panhandle and Indian Bar. I was surprised how much snow is still there. I would have definitely brought poles as there are a few slick and steep drop offs. There are also some confusing sections where people continue to use lower snow paths even though the trail has now melted out to higher spots on the snow field. You may find yourself off the trail if not paying attention :) all doable, just be aware!  

Someone mistakenly grabbed my black diamond alpine cork carbon trekking poles, on day 3/8 on the wonderland at summerland. If this was you, please give them to the longmire wilderness information center by Thursday 7/25 so I can finish the trail safely. 

Thanks!