Starting at the Spider Meadows-Lyman Lake-Carne Mountain trailhead off the Phelps Creek Road, hike 3.29 miles to the Leory Creek High Route, just on the other side of Leroy Creek. The elevation gain is relentless from beginning to end. First gaining 1912 feet in 1.2 miles, then gaining about 2000 more feet in 3 more miles. There are spectacular views of Glacier Peak once you reach the first knoll. You can also look up the valley and see Mt. Chiwawa and Spider Gap, which leads to Lyman Lakes.
The first 3.2 miles up the Phelps Creek trail is an easy grade. A few paces into the hike there is a turn off to Carne Mountain, which is another route that you can take to get to Ice Lakes. Once you reach Leroy Creek, cross the logs and there is a split in the trail. To the left (downhill) continues on the Spider Meadows. The way that you will need to go is right, straight up the hill. You are soon rewarded for your first push by a spectacular waterfall. You follow this to its peak and then traverse into a thick forest. The shade is very nice, especially with all the elevation gain.
Once you gain the 2000 feet, you come into a very nice basin at the base of Seven-Fingered Jack and Mount Maude. There are some very nice camping spots here and below in the meadow. The trail continues on to the right, going up and down some little hills and then opens up into a rock field. Previous hikers have put up trail markers (rock formations) throughout the field to help find the best way across. After crossing most of the rock field, there is a huge glacier-carved ditch that is a little tricky to cross, as it is full of loose gravel and unstable soil. After crossing, look for trail markers that are higher up on the hill, as they lead to the best trail possible through the tress and underbrush that follow. The trail then continues up to the top of a knoll (you can actually see the trail up to the knoll from the basin). When you reach the top you get a fabulous view of Glacier Peak, like you can reach out and touch it! There is also a great view of Spider Gap and down the Phelps Creek Valley and a little bit down the Chiwawa Valley.
After enjoying the view, you will see a well-worn trail straight ahead. DO NOT take that trail unless you want to miss the lakes completely and end up on Carne Mountain (this is where you would end up if you took the Carne Mountain route). Turn left and go straight up the hill to another little knob. More great views here. Look to the left at Mount Maude. You can barely see the trail that you need to take over the shoulder of the mountain to Ice Lakes. You might see people coming through another gap on the right side of the mountain from the Entiat Valley/Entiat Meadows. The last scramble up the side of Mount Maude is a tricky one. A lot of loss rocks and unstable ground makes the going slow. Once you crest the shoulder, you are greeted with a view of the Upper Ice Lake.
Follow the pumice and snowfields down about 500 feet to the lake. If you go to the end of the lake, there is a little trail down to the lower lake. And below that is a waterfall going down the Entiat Valley.
There were few bugs and the temperature was right around 80 degrees. All in all, it was a nice trip. The total mileage into the upper lake is about 8 miles. It took about 5 hours to get in and about 3 hours out. The rock field really slowed the pace both ways. There were a few groups camped at the basin, but that was expected, especially for being the Labor Day weekend.
The Forest Service has a sign on the Leroy Creek Trail that says ""Trail Not Maintained"" but the trail was in excellent shape. In fact we think that it is in better shape than a lot of ""Maintained"" trails.