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Glacier Peak Meadows — Aug. 12, 2022

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
3 photos
Beware of: bugs, road conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming

12 people found this report helpful

 

I'll have to admit it.... I have had a love affair with this trail for 25+ years. Every visit to the North Fork Trail brings a new joy - one more huge old Douglass Fir, one more darling Pika , one more PCT through hiker to meet.

We arrived at the North Fork Sauk Trailhead late Thursday afternoon. The plan was to hike up to the PCT in the cool morning at reach Glacier Peak Meadows by mid-afternoon Friday. The two of us started up Thursday night for a short 2 1/2 mile walk to Red Creek Bridge. It's a lovely spot near the river, with plenty of space for the three parties visiting that night. 

Friday was the long hike up the North Fork Sauk trail to the PCT (near White Pass campground) . The trail was in excellent condition - thanks I understand, to the work of the local Forest Service trail crew. The trail was brushed out, logs cut, and tread very smooth. The switchbacks (I counted 21 turns) up to the PCT are infamous  - hot and steep. One you arrive at the PCT junction, there is a lovely view of White pass, Mt Rainier, Sloan Peak, and more. There is very tasty water at the junction of N Fork Sauk and PCT. 

After a break at the junction, we continued north on the PCT to Red Pass for our annual Red Pass family Photo-shoot. Glacier Peak was in clear lovely view. The hike up to Red pass is gradual but can be tiring and we took it slowly. Trail conditions also excellent! There were just a few blueberries and will be more soon.

Up beyond Red Pass the PCT drops down 1000 -or-so feet to Glacier Peak Meadow. in about 2 miles ,there are several lovely campsites. Plenty of water is available. There is even a brand new toilet courtesy of the Darrington Forest Service. We also met the trail crew from the  PCTA, who were making a big difference all along the PCT several miles to the north of Red Pass.

There was fresh snow melt and that means some mosquitos - just annoying and not a problem as you are hiking. 

Now for the love affair - there is no more astonishing beautiful scenery than the world of Glacier Peak Meadows. Even busy over-achieving through-hikers and GP summit climbers stopped to say - WOW. I hope we all live to see such beauty.

2 nights in the meadows and our food was finished, time to go home. One day, about 7 hours hiking to get back to the trailhead. Thank you North Fork Sauk Trail.

4 photos
Diplomapster
WTA Member
50
Beware of: trail conditions
  • Ripe berries

19 people found this report helpful

 

This is a trip report for the 56(ish) miles of Section K from Stevens Pass to Mica Lake, as well as some unintended detours. First, the temperatures:

9/8/20 Lake Valhalla 57.7˚F

9/8/20 Janus Lake 64.4˚F

9/8/20 Pear Lake 57.0˚F

9/9/20 Lake Sally Anne 58.1˚F

9/9/20 Reflection Pond 57.2˚F

9/10/30 Mica Lake 60.8˚F

Beginning at Stevens Pass the first eighteen miles or so of the trail are lovely, with gentle grades, numerous lakes to swim in or perch beside and excellent views. The view from the top of Grizzly peak, with its ripe berries, flocks of birds and glimpses of Glacier is particularly exquisite. Popular Valhalla Lake has a nice beach, making for good swimming. Janus Lake is marshy and warm. At Pear Lake there is a large clearing where several groups can camp and a pair of good spots for swimming. 

North of Pear Lake the good views continue with Sloane and Kyes peak rising beyond West Cady ridge. Past Lake Sally Anne, which also has good camping and swimming spots, the berry bushes and unobstructed views continue, now of Kodak and Indian Head Peaks. Past the fork for the North Fork of the Sauk River turn off (more on that later), the trail is dusty and windswept as it winds its way up to Red Pass and down into the barren upper reaches of the White Chuck valley where a nice stream and good campsites can be found. 

However, once down in the White Chuck valley all bets are off as the trail disintegrates, with dozens of downed trees, verdant overgrowth, broken bridges and a few patches where mud and streams have claimed the trail. Still, with grace and balance, all major river crossings over the white glacial flows are manageable, and despite the overgrowth, route finding isn't necessary.

From the low of the valley the trail, still in poor shape with several improvised detours, climbs to fire creek pass and back down to Mica Lake. Mica Lake is deep crystalline blue, though a protected shady spot for lunch or camping is hard to come by. 

Unfortunately, as of September 10, 2020 the Downey Creek Fire had closed the Suiattle River Road and Trailhead. Therefore, backtracking from Mica lake, the next river valley south which would appear to connect out is the White Chuck.

Warning: although many maps still show trails in the White Chuck valley, and although signs on the PCT still point to these trails, they no longer exist. It turns out they were wiped out by a 2003 flood, with 17 years of unchecked forest growth reclaiming what wasn't obliterated by the deluge. 

Although the Kennedy Ridge trail still is somewhat follow-able, once it reaches the flood plain, nothing remains to follow. Bushwhacking, clambering over log jams and traipsing across sand bars is the only route that awaits. Not an ideal trail when re-routing to avoid forest fire closures. 

An additional backtrack from that thicket, the next river south, which does indeed connect out is the North Fork of the Sauk River. This trail is in excellent shape and after a long decent, a speedy and easy path through groves of truly gigantic trees is all that remains between the journey and the parking lot. 

Trip total 91.98 miles with 40,408 feet of up and down. 

Glacier Peak Meadows — Sep. 4, 2020

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
4 photos
Beware of: road conditions
  • Ripe berries

10 people found this report helpful

 

My cat, my partner, and I did a leisurely backpacking trip to Glacier Peak Meadows for Labor day weekend. We left Seattle right after work on Friday, and arrived to an overflowing TH around 8pm. We were lucky to find a parking spot!

We hiked in to the campsite that's about 5 miles in and set up camp in the dark. The following morning, we got up and hiked in the rest of the way to Glacier Peak Meadows. We saw lots and lots of climbers hiking in, some backpackers, some thru hikers, and some trail runners. Between backpackers and thru hikers, the campsites at the meadows were full, but it seemed like everyone was able to find a spot. It didn't feel overcrowded though.

On Sunday, we made our way down to the waterfall in the morning. We couldn't find the official trail there, so followed a dry creek bed down. We found the trail on our way back -  it's maybe 1/4 mile past the campsites. We went and checked out the cinder cone after dinner, and enjoyed the pink evening skies there. The night was much chillier than the previous one.

We got up Monday morning, packed up, and sadly headed back to civilization. We talked to lots of cool people, loved the meadows, and are looking forwards to our next outing!

Road was in good shape just some minor potholes. Bugs were mostly annoying flies and a handful of mosquitoes. Flowers are pretty much gone, but low bush blueberries galore!

Glacier Peak Meadows — Aug. 29, 2020

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
3 photos
  • Wildflowers blooming
  • Ripe berries

2 people found this report helpful

 

The mountain highway on the way up is in great condition. Slept at a pullover on the scenic highway friday night then went up to the trailhead saturday morning after a quick breakfast ~10am, it was nearly full but we managed a spot.

Quick pace up until the Mackinaw shelter, which we nearly missed had we not been tipped off by someone camping there. Great weather and the shade made water super manageable, but I would strongly recommend topping up with water near the shelter because there is no where to get water until well after the switchbacks + PCT traverse. Big juicy huckleberries halfway up the switchbacks on the way to the PCT. Seeing portal peak and sloan peak right before red pass on a clear day was gorgeous, with a zoom lens or binoculars you can spot mt rainier too.

Descending into the valley takes longer than it seems because of the meandering trail but you'll soon run into a decent sized creek with plenty of foot paths branching off the trail for more secluded camping spots. Overnight it became very cold quickly, there was frost everywhere. Climbing the cinder cone for sunrise to warm up was a treat. Accidentally disturbed around a dozen quails on the way up. We saw two marmots relaxing in the shadow of the PCT traverse on the way back.

Ran into plenty of other groups that had either done glacier peak or just spent time at white pass, probably encountered ~2 dozen people over two days on the trail. Not everyone had masks.

Beware of: trail conditions
  • Ripe berries

10 people found this report helpful

 

First solo backpacking trip, spent exploring Glacier Peak Wilderness! 4 days, 3 nights, roughly 40 miles between Aug 20-23 2020.

Day 1: Bald Eagle TH -> unofficial campsite ~2 miles from TH (~2 miles)
Day 2: Bald Eagle trail -> Lower Blue Lake area (~10 miles)
Day 3: Lower Blue Lake -> Upper Blue Lake -> Dishpan Gap -> PCT to White Pass -> Red Pass -> Glacier Peak Meadows area -> back to Red Pass (~15 miles)
Day 4: Red Pass -> North Fork Sauk TH -> Road walk to Bald Eagle TH (~13 miles)

With the husband preoccupied with grad school stresses, I thought I'd take advantage of work flexibility to do my first solo backpacking trip, and landed on Glacier Peak Wilderness after reading MeLuckyTarn's and KatnissEvergreen's inspiring trail reports. Highly highly recommend this loop!

Details:
-Bald Eagle Trail to Blue Lakes: as others have reported, this trail is quite brushy but somehow still very easy to follow. Note that there are no campsites until Curry Gap. I decided to hike in on Thursday night to get a jump on the mileage and ended up camping in a grassy section right off the trail, but would not recommend this; if you can't make it to Curry Gap (where the campsites begin), I'd recommend car camping near the trailhead, since there are lots of established spots along the way (you could also camp in the stock unloading area 1/4 mile from the trailhead). The Bald Eagle trail has a different vibe than the North Fork Sauk trail; it reminded me of hiking back in Pennsylvania. Less mossy and ferny, more dry, with nice intermittent views of meadows which you don't get on the North Fork Sauk trail. I spotted a bear about 50 feet down the ridge, but it ran away as soon as I clanged my hiking poles together. The incline beat me up more than I thought it would, maybe because I was carrying more than usual? I was relieved to make it to the ridge, where you can see one of the Blue Lakes sparkling below (the Lower lake, I believe). I followed the trail sign (indicating the Pilot Ridge trail, I think) down, leaving the Bald Eagle Trail, which I'd rejoin farther on the next day. The descent to the lakes felt a little long but soon I got to what I thought was Lower Blue Lake, a little bemused by the size (I later learned that this was, in fact, NOT Lower Blue Lake, but an unnamed tarn). This was a wonderful place to camp and I didn't see a single person the rest of the day. By this time it was about 1:30pm, and I was originally thinking I'd take a break here for lunch and move on, but it started to rain and I decided to set up my tent rest for an hour. One hour turned to many as the gentle but steady rain continued and I luxuriated in creature comforts: a hot midday coffee (made under my vestibule), a perfectly smushed PB&J, my clean dry socks, and a good book. The rain let up enough for me to take a few soaks in the tarn, but not enough to entice me to pack up everything I had so cozily set up, so I stayed for the night, spending the afternoon reading saved trip reports and calculating mileage for the rest of the hike. By evening fog enveloped the tarn and after a good dinner I was lulled to sleep by the duet of bubbling stream and soft rain. Perfection!

-Blue Lakes to Dishpan Gap: In the morning I packed up and continued on the trail, passing another tarn and then what I soon realized was the "real" Lower Blue Lake. This entire area (Lower Blue Lake + tarns) has many cool camping sites, either near the water or more protected in the woods nearby. Very worth exploring to find the perfect spot. I continued to ascend until I arrived at Upper Blue Lake, which only had two groups set up from the night before (from what I could see). Upper Blue Lake is really interesting, and seemed to have an upper and lower portion with different camp sites to explore, with all sorts of spots on the shore, off in the woods, and along different overlooks. The high route back up to the ridge to meet up with the Bald Eagle trail was just as intense as others described, and definitely a lung burner to start the day, but the views looking down at Upper Blue Lake were honestly incredible. The trail to Dishpan Gap is along a ridge and quite cool, though I couldn't see the views well because of persisting clouds.

-Dishpan Gap to White Pass: Once at Dishpan Gap, you take a hard left to get on the PCT and make your way to White Pass. The trail here is an array of amazing ridgeline views and meadows (plus lots of berries ripe now, especially after passing Indian Pass). I was invigorated by lots of delightful, quick passing chats with the 6-7 solo and group hikers who had camped at White Pass and were heading to Blue Lake, including some former PCT thruhikers and several solo female backpackers (including an older women who was completing a ten day solo trip!). Also passed several trail runners doing the White Pass-Pilot Ridge loop, super impressive! I made it to White Pass around 1 and took a break at a clearing/former camp spot (no more camping on the ridge is allowed) right next to the split between the North Fork Sauk trail/PCT and Foam Creek.

-White Pass to Red Pass to Glacier Peak Meadows and Back: I continued on the PCT/North Fork Sauk trail until reaching the noticeable split where the PCT ascends to Red Pass, which is marked by a small signpost. Red Pass is really striking, the ridge and meadows up to Portal Peak are lush and bright, and looking down on the other side to White Chuck River basin toward Glacier Peak the view seemed austere, cold, and dramatic. I was set on finding Glacier Peak Meadows, which is not marked on GPX tracks I could find, but marked via a dotted (hard-to-follow) trail on the Green Trails map (#112) for this area. I followed the PCT down into the basin, passing the White Chuck cinder cone (which I thought was very creepy-looking) and reached a few clustered camp sites near a copse of trees, 1.6 miles from Red Pass. From here, I was totally stumped--I found several foot paths all over (one leading to a toilet!) but the way down to the river looked extremely steep and there was no clear trail. I even spotted a group on the other side of the river, near the waterfall mentioned in some trip reports about the meadows. But by this time my phone was low on battery and I didn't want to risk getting lost, so I decided (dejectedly) to hike back up to Red Pass and camp at a spot in the opposite valley I saw while hiking up earlier in the afternoon. On the plus side, after I paused to grab water and regroup, the family I spotted in the meadows came along up the trail (having done a day hike loop from foam creek back up to white pass) and gave me some super valuable beta for next time: apparently the rough footpath to the meadows can be found after passing the camp area; I hadn't continued far enough down the PCT past the camps to spot it. They said it was hard to follow and completely disappeared at times, but worth the trip. Next time! I made it to Red Pass and found the social trail leading down to a nice dry campsite in a small dirt clearing.

-Red Pass to North Fork Sauk Trailhead and Bald Eagle Trailhead: In the morning I hiked back down from Red Pass 1.3 miles to the PCT junction, taking in the incredible views of the mountains (including Mt Rainier!) and turned right to join the North Fork Sauk trail for my descent. I powered through and was super relieved to hit the Mackinaw shelter camp area, marking the end of switchbacks; the rest of the trail is a gentle slog through mossy, wet forest. I got to the packed parking lot and finished my trip with a 2.5 mile roadwalk back to my car at the Bald Eagle trailhead. If I ever do this itinerary again, I'd drive to the Bald Eagle TH, drop my pack, drive back and park at the North Fork Sauk trailhead, and frontend the roadwalk.

Other Notes:
-Navigation: I always think GPS is a must (I created my own route using Gaia for this loop) but of all the trails I've hiked this year, this was REALLY easy to follow and at no point was I uncertain about where to go, except at trail junctions. 
-Trail conditions: Really great, only passed a few blowdowns, all very manageable.
-Water: Other trip reports have better details. I packed an extra bottle for the hike between Blue Lake and White Pass but didn't end up needing it. There were parts of the trail that were dry.
-Bugs: not an issue for me at all, I didn't even put bug spray on the last 2 days.
-Wildlife: Saw 1 bear off the Bald Eagle trail. Tons of marmots. Very few birds singing this late in the season, didn't even hear any night birds.
-Snow: Did not hit any snow.
-Road: Once Mountain Loop Hwy turns to gravel, the going is a little rough, and there are some potholes to navigate, but nothing sketchy at all.