I decided to skip the water taxi and hiked from highway 20 starting at the East Bank trailhead. I am a solo female backpacker and I admittedly packed my bag much heavier than I should have so East Bank trail took me longer than I expected, it's an incredibly well maintained trail though. Plenty, and I do mean PLENTY, of water sources along the entire trail (at least as of late August 2020). I have a small Grayl filtration water bottle which makes stopping for water on trails like this a breeze since you don't even have to take your pack off, I highly recommend the ultralight Grayl or something similar. Day one I hiked to Lightning Creek campground, 16 miles from the starting point on highway 20. Lightning Creek is a beautiful little basic campground, it does have the amenities of a bear box, pit toilets, and flat sandy spots for your tent. It's right along the lake so filtering water is a breeze.

The next morning I planned to hike to Desolation camp, so I relaxed and took my time preparing for the upcoming incline, ha! All trail reports inform you Desolation has no water, so I made sure to bring more than I normally would. I took a little over 5L. It's pretty flat from Lightning Creek camp to the base of Desolation, but after that prepare for the climb! It really is a pretty good workout and you definitely have to earn your views. I had a permit for the only campsite so I took my time knowing I wouldn't have to rush back down. I only encountered one group the entire hike, so you'll likely have the trail to yourself. It's a nice trail but the views really aren't anything spectacular (but do NOT get discouraged by this! What's waiting at the top is breathtaking!)

I finally reached the campsite and was more than happy to ditch my pack and relax. There is a pit toilet and a designated cooking area (bears really are everywhere) so use as advised. The campsite has BEAUTIFUL views of Ross Lake and the glacier on Little Jack mountain. It really is pretty "desolate" which was kind of intimidating for me being on my own, but the experience was worth it. Throughout the night the weather changed drastically and the wind picked up, rain was relentless and LIGHTNING! It was a nice reminder for myself that you really have to prepare for anything in the Cascades. Earlier in the evening as I was setting up camp, Jim who man's the lookout, came up the trail and introduced himself. He made me feel SO much better about being alone, and he gave me advice and also informed me about the last 1 mile of the trail I'd be hiking the next day to the summit. 

Early morning the clouds started clearing and I knew I'd gotten very lucky. I left most of my gear at camp and hit the trail for the last grueling stretch to the lookout. It's the most beautiful part of the hike and best of all, FRESH BLUEBERRIES EVERYWHERE! I hit the jackpot as far as timing goes, I spent an extra hour picking blueberries (staying right on the trail). Of course this means you should be mindful of bears, but if you're calm and smart about using your canister and eliminating any scent of food, bears shouldn't be a problem for you. You reach a false summit and the trail starts to head down for a short bit, but if it's a clear day you can very obviously see the lookout above you. I promise that it looks further away than it is! After such a climb it can be so discouraging to see how much further the lookout appears, but truly you get there in no time! 

The views from the lookout on a clear day are indescribably beautiful. Seeing where Ross Lake ends and it turns back into the Skagit river (the Canadian border), seeing all the glaciers, seeing Mount Baker peek through. And the star of the show, Hozomeen, is awe-inspiring.

Then there's Jim! If you're lucky enough to reach the lookout on a day Jim is there, you're in for a treat! He is possibly the kindest man I've ever met, and his knowledge on the area seems neverending. He answered all my questions and then some. He gave a tour of the lookout and had really interesting information on the history of it and the surrounding areas. He's definitely someone you wanna chat with! 

After probably 2 hours at the top I went back down to break down camp and head down the mountain. Again I took my time because I had a permit to stay at Lightning Creek again. I had a relaxing afternoon and evening, then left early the next morning for the 16 miles back to the trailhead. 

Overall I highly recommend this hike and I especially recommend actually hiking the whole thing vs using the water taxi. It really was quite a challenge for me and quite rewarding, it's one of my favorite adventures so far. 

Of course I have to end with THEE Kerouac quote, "Climb that goddamn mountain!" 

I car camped across the Highway from the East Bank trailhead, was awoken at 4:30 AM by the logging truck convoy coming from the other side of the mountains to the mill in Darrington.  The sun didn't hit my car until 7:30, I noticed the Panther Creek TH 100 yards east gets it most of an hour earlier.

I had put out the call for others to join me to hike and do a little work on this unmaintained trail, Reports back to 2000 have complained about brush.  Weather was perfect, and no bugs, even at the car.  I waited 10 minutes after departure time and headed up.  

Took me most of an hour to cover the 2.8 miles on the East Bank trail to the junction with the Little Jack trail R.  I got water at one of the several creeks before the turn, I had read there may be none and there was not.  There is one place near the start off a switchback, but easier to get before the turnoff.

I had hiked/worked on this twice in 2019, was able to complete the work today and hike to the top.  Trail is now in great condition to where it disappears above about 6000'.  Easy ridge crest travel from there, you can see the high point ahead, occasional old path.

When the 6745 foot summit is reached more obvious trail heads across towards Jack Mountain, I read you can climb it from this side.  Better views of Ross Lake can be had from the slightly lower bump to the N, a 5 minute stroll away.

From the top, back down the much improved trail to the East Bank trail in 2 and a half hours, probably 3 and a half up if I wasn't working.  Others have said they thought this is too long for a day hike, estimated 14.5 miles and 5000' vertical, but the trail is so good that it is easily doable.  This is an old school National Park trail, tons of switchbacks, consistent grade, never too steep.  I even ran some on the way out.

I did all the work on the way in, noticed I missed a few spots as I was heading down.  I think it's done anyway, will still bring my clippers every time I go here, as should you.  No need to wait until brush is a problem to do a little clipping.

I saw 5 people all day, all on the East Bank trail.  I carried 3.5 liters of water and it was just enough to get me back to Lone Tree Creek, probably 3 is good if just hiking.  I encountered a 3 year old bear at about 4500', he must have smelled me before I saw him because he was running away already.  Better than my last bear.

I did this loop in 4 1/2 days starting at the Canyon Creek Trailhead and going up Jackita Ridge, so I'll describe it going that direction...

Jackita Ridge trail - From the trailhead, cross the large footbridge a few minutes away, then continue a few hundred yards to the informal campground and cross the creek there to avoid the landslide on the trail on the opposite bank (the stream is only shin deep at most and fairly easy to cross at this point). (You can cross the landslide area like I did but I realized after doing all that work that I could see an easy crossing to the camp area).

The trail goes upwards on steep switchbacks as advertised and includes lots of brush to push through, making it even tougher. There's a few decent (small) springs on the way up. The turnoff for Crater Lake (to the left) is not marked (unless you consider someone scrawling CL on a tree a marker), but occurs at a very small clearing with a stream and doesn't (at first) appear to be much more than a boot path.  

Crater lake trail and Crater Lake - Lots of downed logs but easily navigated. One large camp (enough for three tents or so) about 400 yards below the lake (with a nice boulder perch for views and stream next to it). One campsite in the grassy area close to the lake and three or four (one to two tent capacity spots) on the ridge above the lake (follow the trail around the lake 50 yards or so and take a left up a narrow trail to reach the ridge). Lots of bugs, especially close to the lake. I'm glad I had a headnet in the evening.

For a day hike, follow the trail along the lake west up to the the ridge above the lake. Brushy but easy to follow trail and great views. No water along the way.

Crater lake to Devil's Park Shelter - Good path. Water available in small creeks at good intervals. Lots of huckleberry plants but only a few ripe berries so far. Good water source (creek) a short distance from the shelter.

Devil's Park Shelter to North Fork Devil's Creek - lots of ups and downs to ridge crests and basins, sometimes steep, a bit brushy and/or exposed to the sun. In general, little to no water going up or down until the one creek or stream in the basin, so fill up whenever you get a chance. (It was hot when I went, so I drank almost a liter between refills). 

North Fork Devil's Creek to Devil's pass - a surprisingly steep but short section up from the creek leads (in 1/2 mile or so) to a nice camp area (enough for three to four tents) next to a stream. There are a few small creeks above the camp, but once above those its dry until you reach the pass. There is a small trickle of water at the pass - from the pass take the Devil's Ridge trail to the East (towards Deception pass), after a few hundred yards, veer right at the Y, and after a few hundred yards more, you'll see an obvious path to the right that leads in about 40 yards to a small trickle of a stream with a pipe helpfully placed to enable you to fill a water bladder. (I continued down the trail below the spring to check out the shelter, but it was in ruins and the meadowy area wasn't as appealing for camping - tons of bugs and few cleared camp areas). Good campsites are located at the pass and just before you reach the pass on a higher perch. Bugs were annoying but going uphill for views and a breeze helped.

Devil's Pass to Devil's Dome - Relatively gentle up and down trail until the relentless uphill to the Dome, but the incredible views make it easier to bear. There was one small creek (not sure of it's reliability) one basin before you reach Devil's Dome (with a nice camp spot above it heading towards Devil's Dome) but otherwise no water until you reach the west side of the Dome (down the hill 1/2 mile or so).

Devil's Dome to Dry Creek Pass - Lots of water in streams next to the path below Devil's Dome (heading towards Ross Lake), but after you leave that basin, the only reliable water I found was at a creek next to Bear Skull Shelter. To get to the shelter, follow a narrow side trail to the right (someone had put an arrow to indicate that you should continue on the Devil's Ridge trail). This will lead up a short distance to a few decent camp spots and then down maybe 1/2 mile to the shelter with three or four decent camp spots, the intact shelter and good stream. I camped at the first camp spots before depending to the shelter. The bugs were quite bad there, but the stars and nearby views were awesome. 

Continue on the main trail down to the pass (where I did see a scrawled sign that said "water" and pointed down a steep trail - I explored a few hundred feet down and gave up when I didn't see a sign of a spring or creek).

Dry Creek Pass to Devil's Creek Camp to Recreation Area Boundary - The path switchbacks down and can be very brushy with MANY downed trees/logs to navigate over or under. I saw only two water sources - one creek about an hour down the trail and the next 30 minutes or so after that. Otherwise quite dry until you reach the lake. (I had a permit for Devil's Creek for the next day - and didn't have permits for other camp areas - so I continued on the East Bank Trail to the Recreation Area boundary). The southbound East Bank trail starts in forest and eventually hugs the shoreline and reaches the lakeshore at Rainbow camp (after a very short spur trail). Swimming is great anywhere you can reach the lake, but the dock at Rainbow camp is especially convenient. From Rainbow Camp to the Recreation area boundary (about 1 mile east of the Panther Creek/East Bank trailhead), the trail stays mostly in forest with some creek crossings. (It felt like a long, but gradual uphill gradient to finally reach Hidden Hand pass). There's one good campsite next to a rushing creek just over the Recreation area border.

A terrific 3 night backpacking trip along the east shore of Ross Lake with a neighbor and her sixteen year old daughter both experiencing their first backpacking trip. 

Because we didn't have reserved campsites, I got up early the day before our planned trip and drove to Marblemount (a bit over 2 hours) to secure our permits at the Wilderness Information Center.  I was glad I did as there were around 50 folks in the parking lot when I arrived at the 7:00 opening.  I'm fairly sure that securing the permits the day before our planned start (vs on the start day) helped us get the campsites we were hoping for.  

The next day we drove up, parked at the Ross Damn trailhead and hiked the 1 mile trail to the lake.  We were met by the Ross Lake Resort water taxi (pre-arranged) who dropped us off at Lightning Creek Campsite about 1/2 way up the lake (at a cost of $110 for the 4 of us).  We spent a relaxing first night near the water.

The next day we hiked the 6.5 miles to Rainbow Point campground where we spent the night and once again enjoyed the lake.  The following day another 6.5 miles to Hidden Hand Campsite (ditto on access to the lake).

All in all a very nice trip and hopefully a positive introduction to backpacking for our friends.  The weather was warm and the bugs were tolerable (largely because we were near the lake).

Did a two night water-taxi organized backpacking trip from Hozomeen to Lightning Creek.  Figured with the border still closed, we'd have the place to ourselves, we did.  The only factor would be the mosquitos.  One step off the water taxi and they were waiting for you.  The worst seemed to be at Ross Lake at the Hozomeen dock/campsites.  They were a pest most of the way to the lake which forced our group to keep moving at a faster than normal clip.

We were rewarded with a tranquil lake and profound silence.  Nice to have the campsites established with fire pits and comfy tent areas.  At sun down, the highlight of the trip: howls of the Hozomeen wolf pack echoing across the lake. Owls, loons...all kinds of wildlife making this one of the wilder backpacking settings I've been in.  Fishing was unproductive.

Following a night at the lake, we headed south to Deer Tick campsite for the night and then onto Lightning Creek for pickup. The trail is clear and meanders through a forest for most of the way. Mosquitos are still hanging around but less so. There are some wonderful old growth stretches with massive trees. Nightmare camp - despite the name - looked like a nice spot to settle down.  Deer Tick, where we had the permit, was less intriguing but had a nice fire pit above the creek. Again, nobody to be found. The trail from Deer Tick to Lightning had a noticeable climb to it.  Thru hiking this trail from north to south seems like the way to do it because you get the nice capper to the trip with views of Ross lake and surrounding Cascades.  Plus the ability to take a dip in the lake while awaiting the taxi.  

Great, stress-free trip.