Finally carved out enough time to tackle this run/hike after reading Desolation Angels many years ago. Got a late start and didn't hit the trailhead until nearly 8 but still was dumb enough to think I'd make it back before dark. The run along the lake was nice. Not Baker Lake nice, but nice. After some sign confusion just past Lightning Creek I fnally headed up the mountain. Slowly. It is actually similar to Granite in that you break out of the woods, think you see the top, and then realize it is much farther off. Views at the top were truly spectacular, though, and worth the effort. The lookout is closed for the season and cinched down with a cargo strap. After running down the mountain I began the stumble back to the car which went fine until it got dark and I was reminded had sinfully forgotten one of the Essentials. The LCD screen of a camera was a poor replacement but it did the job. Didn't come across a single soul the entire trip. Seems shocking for such a well-known spot on a sunny Fall Saturday. Gotta love the North Cascades. I'll be back, but next time with a flashlight and will probably take the ferry down to Lightning.

We didn't know when we planned the trip that our hike would include the warmest spell on record, but the dates were set, the airline tickets for our visiting relatives who would join us on the hike were bought and the water taxi was reserved, so off we went. We planned to start with a hike up Desolation Peak with day packs, then backpack south along the east bank of Ross Lake to Devil's Junction where we'd turn uphill to do the high part of the Crater-Jackita-Devil's loop. We had mostly sunny weather with rather extreme heat, and a few thunderstorms. In general the trails were easier and in better shape than I expected from reading reports of the last couple of years. We encountered no snow on any of the trails. We arrived at the Marblemount Ranger Station ten minutes before its 7am opening and after a party of 11 got a permit for a week-long trip in the park, we got our camping permits for Lightning Creek and Devil's Junction and were on our way a little after 7:30am, running a little late for our 8:30am water taxi time. We had the water taxi stop at Lightning Creek to drop off our backpacks then, for an extra $10, ferry us to the Desolation Peak landing to save us two miles of hiking and, more important, get us on the hot trail an hour earlier. We were on the trail by 9:45am and the temperature was already high and we were glad for the extra water we'd brought along. Fortunately, the first three miles of the Desolation Peak trail are in the shade and the spring at the two mile point was still running, so we could cool off there. The radiators were all steaming by the time we reached the lookout, however. A work crew is restoring the lookout this summer and they had been doing lead paint abatement earlier in the week, so we couldn't sit in the shade of the building and there isn't much else tall enough to provide shade, but the views were glorious and we chatted with the crew and got a quick peek inside the lookout. After the long, hot descent and extra two miles to Lightning Creek Camp, it was delightful to discover that the shore of Ross Lake by the campsites is relatively shallow and the upper 2-3 feet of water were comfortable swimming pool temperature. We soaked our tired bodies for an extended period before dinner. The campsites were great, though the deer's appetite for charcoal out of the fire rings was a bit odd. A bearproof locker is provided with every site here, meaning we didn't have to hang our food when it was at its heaviest, and the locker was large enough to hold all three of our backpacks. July 29 will live in infamy in Seattle, I guess, as the 103 degree day and it was a good thing we had scheduled a relatively easy 3.6 mile hike along the lake before taking on the 4000-5000 foot gain up to Devil's Ridge. We took it easy in the morning and got a late start, which made the hike oppressively hot except for at Dry Creek, which not only didn't live up to its name but also its cool valley provided a respite from the hot air. Devil's Junction Hiker Camp is unfortunately 100' above the lake, and the boat camp below has poor swimming access, particularly as afternoon thunderstorms brought wind and whitecaps on the lake. There was an Urban Wilderness Project crew improving the stock camp while we were there. Devil's Junction hiker camp does not have bearproof lockers. A thunderstorm periodically showered us but also made the temperatures somewhat cooler the next morning, as we climbed up, up, up on the Devil's Ridge trail. The trail is in decent condition and the blowdowns are cleared. There's a short stretch around 3000' where a seasonal stream has taken over the trail (dry when we were there), and it could use a good brush-clearing at the 4000' level or so, but I've seen much worse brush elsewhere. There is a short, very steep stretch just before Dry Creek Pass which provides a preview of coming attractions on the Jackita Ridge trail. We camped in the basin just west of Devil's Dome, with views of Jack Mountain and plentiful water and, unfortunately, a noticeable number of mosquitoes and biting flies. The biting insects were always present for the remainder of the trip, though they waxed and waned depending on the location. The next day we hiked over Devil's Dome and didn't linger on the summit as the flies were particularly bad there. The flowers along Devil's Ridge were tremendous. We had lunch at Devil's Pass, then followed the Jackita Ridge trail as it traversed two miles to the headwaters of N Fork Devil's Creek. The tread of the trail in the southern mile of the traverse is beginning to slope sharply downhill in places as it fills with debris, but generally it's in OK shape. We camped at a great campsite less than a quarter mile beyond the intersection with the Anacortes Crossing way trail (a sign indicates the directions of Devil's Pass and Granite Creek but that's it) with easy access to the creek. Day five included the most rugged segment of the Jackita Ridge trail. The part that loses 800 feet or so along the creek was muddy in places and had a few blowdowns but was snowfree, though there were snow patches nearby. The 1000 foot climb out of the valley is cruel steep in places, but has three level sections to relieve the strain, and the steepness doesn't quite reach, say, the last quarter mile of the Ice Lakes trail, or Lake Constance. The trail follows the ridge briefly, then descends to the next basin where there are a couple of campsites by a creek with views of Jack Mountain. Throughout this part and the following few hundred feet of climb the trail is in fine condition until the scree slope climb is encountered. The first part is steep as it climbs a shallow rib, then the steepness decreases for a few switchbacks up the scree. The last hundred feet of the climb is on mixed dirt and rock, and sections have slid out making the crossing somewhat hazardous given the exposure. We all made it OK, and I'm glad we were going up rather than down though the lack of corpses at the bottom of the hill indicates that folks are getting through OK. Once atop the scree slope the trail becomes quite civilized again. We made the sidetrip up to point 7248 for 360 degree views, including smoke billowing from the Chancellor fire, then plodded on to Devil's Park shelter, where we set our tents up for the night. The last day we hiked out the seven miles to the Canyon Creek trailhead. On the way out we talked with folks who had made the sidetrip to Crater Lake, who said the trail has a lot of timber over it because of a landslide, and the trail to the lower lookout has also slid out for a considerable stretch, so we were glad we chose to get our views on Jackita Ridge instead. I can report that there are a few long switchbacks at the bottom of the trail, then after the Pasayten Wilderness sign is reached there are 46 switchbacks to where the trail crosses the Crater Lake outlet at a lovely waterfall, followed by 8 more switchbacks and a traverse to the Crater Lake trail junction. All in all, it was a memorable hike with beautiful views and flowers, and the difficulties weren't as great as I'd expected from past reports.

We had decided to take a boat taxi up the East Bank of Ross Lake and hike from one camp to another, exploring the mid to upper stretches of the area. The weather was fair as we reached rainbow point camp. With the lake being down the campground sits on a narrow hilltop above the lake with three campsites. This is a pleasant place but not great. The next day we backpacked up the trail to devil's Junction, where there are hiker camps and one boat camp. This stretch of trail is quite scenic as it skirts the rock cliffs above the lake. There is a beautiful gorge as you cross a suspension bridge before Devil's Junction. The next day we headed up toward Lightning Creek. This stretch of trail is wooded with more creeklets and water then the stretch between Rainbow and Devil's Junction. There is a footlog over Dry creek that is a little narrow with no rail. It is about 25 ft long, 6 to 8 ft above the raging creek and about 10 inches wide with the top roughly planed sort of flat not particularly slippery. Over all this is a great early season hike. The boat Taxi was fun, a little spendy. $40 dollars for Rainbow and $60 dollars for Devils and $70 dollars for Lightning Creek. This is one way fare. You can rent kayaks for 40 dollars a day or hike the whole way. Roland creek is a difficult crossing. We talked to two young hikers who found it challenging. Find your own log or whatever. Roland and Dry creeks are too dangerous to ford at this time. After the water taxi dropped us off near Ross Dam we headed one mile up and up to the parking lot. Very pleasant trip. Off to the Buffalo Run Restaurant for lunch!

Hiked in at the Ruby Creek Trailhead on Rt. 20 and proceeded to the East Bank Trail. Several Small blowdowns in the first 2.5 miles to the start of the East Bank Trail. People and dogs will find them all passable but one is ""iffy"" for horses. From the start of the East Bank Trail to Roland Creek there are many major blowdowns. These are passable for man and large dogs (with difficulty) but would be impossible for horses and small dogs. Streams are all passable to Roland Creek. Roland creek is passable for humans, but with no bridge it would be extremely difficult for our 4 legged friends; especially if they are carrying a pack as well. Saw lots of bear scat but no bears. Encountered many deer and one actually walked to within 10' of us even with the dog ""Winston"" in hand (Winston is an 83 lb. boxer, who to our amazement; sat quietly while the deer approached). Also saw grouse and several other birds along the way. We cleared as many blowdowns as we could given time constraints and only carrying a bow saw for such purposes. If everyone would carry a 24"" bow saw in the spring and just clear a couple of blowdowns as they hiked along; we could all do a small part in keeping our trails more enjoyable. Trail was dry all the way to Roland Creek.