Every year I like to get out in the mountains for my birthday and I try to make it an overnight somewhere. With my birthday falling on a Monday I was able to combine it with a weekend and get enough time for the Devils Dome loop. And even convince someone to go along!
With only two of us we opted to drop a bicycle at the Ross Dam trailhead and park at Canyon Creek. Our plan would omit the walk back along the East Bank trail in favor of tagging Desolation Peak, which had been high on both our lists, then ride the water taxi out. After an initial wrong turn leaving Canyon Creek we were on our way uphill towards Crater Lake.
We made good time going up the hill and set up camp at a nice hanging site just off trail near the Crater Lake outlet. The lake itself was little more than a muddy tarn, though the setting was pretty. After setting up camp we headed up Crater Mountain. What a nice little trail! Surprisingly easy to follow all the way until the scramble of the summit block. We made it to about 7700 ft, scrambling up a sandy gully and following cairns and yellow paint markers, before reaching turnaround point. Views were great! On a return I'd like to camp in the high areas below the summit. Back at camp we found we had a neighbor. We cooked a nice dinner, watched the supermoon rise, and turned in for a long day.
9.7 miles, 5900 ft gain.
In the morning we packed out through McMillan Park and into Devils Park. Nice trail the whole way with plentiful water. Some annoying bugs too. We had lunch at the Devils Park shelter before heading up onto Jackita Ridge. In the sun the steep rocky trail was draining. Views had also faded with the calm air and incoming smoke from the Methow fires. At times we could barely see Jack Mountain! Still we pushed on and even found the energy for a short side trip up to Pt7248 on Jackita.
Then it was a long walk down into drainages on rough trail, climbing back out, down again, back up towards Anacortes Crossing, and then a very scenic long traverse out to Devils Park. We'd hoped to find a nice camp with water somewhere along this stretch but sadly found neither. Very dry and no suitable camps. We rolled into Devils Pass to find a solo hiker setup here and a very large group down by the spring. We debated a bit and finally just decided to stay rather than backtrack with limited daylight remaining. Bugs were quite annoying here.
12.4 miles, 4000 ft gain. Rough trail in places.
Sunday morning we packed up and headed out through nice trail towards Devils Dome. The basin below Pt6881 was especially scenic and we found a fantastic campsite on the shoulder where the trail crosses. If only we could have stayed! We took a nice break, many photos of Jack Mountain, then pushed on to Devils Dome.
The Dome was very cool. Wide open summit with a tundra-like feel. Views were a little limited due to continued fire smoke. Also our stay wasn't as long as we'd have liked due to biting flies. We moved on with a swim in Ross Lake on our minds. Our original plan had us camped at one of boat-in sites on Ross but the rangers would not issue us a permit, so we were scheduled for the Devils Crossing hiker-camp. The descent was steep and humid but not too difficult. No real blow-down the whole way to the lake! Partway down we surprised a large black-bear chowing down on berries on trail. He took off quickly before either of us could get a camera out.
We arrived at Devils Crossing to find an empty camp. After claiming a fantastic site with views of the lake, surprisingly far below us, we hiked down to the boat dock for a swim. The water was fantastic! Perfect temperature for swimming and diving. Lindsey made one hell of a nice jump off the dock while I, less adventurous when it comes to water, sort of flopped in like a walrus. As we sat in the water tiny fish would swim up and pick at our dirty feet.
Temperatures were perfect overnight and we left the fly off my Tarptent for the first time. Calm winds, bright moon, loons singing - perfection.
10.6 miles, 1100 ft gain. Mostly downhill with about 5000 ft elevation loss.
Monday would be our long day so we woke early. We were on the move before 7 and made short work of the trail to Lightning Creek. The camp was surprisingly full and also was host to a camp of Border Patrol agents. The family in the group-site paddled away as we arrived, their kids having some kind of bad bug-bite reaction. We claimed a site close to the water and setup camp. And amazingly the beer I had left at the Ross Dam trailhead made its way into the bear lockers! Three days earlier I had left a six-pack along that trail with a silly note asking anyone heading to Lightning Creek to carry it to the bear locker in exchange for taking two cans. Well, four cans did not survive the trip but two did so that's a win in my book! Hooray for good people!
We left camp around 930 aiming for Desolation, carrying as much water as possible but little else. The air was again dead calm and smokey. We made good time and were at the tower a little after 1. Views were a bit limited but still fantastic! Even better a lookout was manning the tower so we could go inside. He had been there a week and was on schedule for an additional week. We poked around and ate lunch in the shade below the tower. Lindsey surprised me with a few tiny brownie cakes - awesome way to celebrate! We offered the third brownie to the ranger before departing.
There was a small seep of water at 4000 ft that was extremely helpful. Both of us were fairly dehydrated and low on water. We continued all the way down the trail and down to the dock for another swim in Ross before finishing the final 2 miles back to Lightning creek ... where we immediately went swimming again. The campground was full yet again. Another very nice evening. Amazingly we were the last two people awake at 10 pm!
16.7 miles, 5300 ft gain.
We set our alarms to make sure we didn't miss our water taxi but as it happened we wouln't even get to sleep that late. The very large group of canoers in the group site woke up before 6 to cook an elaborate breakfast. We heard mention of sausage and hash browns and orange juice, not to mention the smells, as we tried to keep dozing and also not to think about it as we ate our granola and powdered milk.
The taxi was just a bit late but we were happy to learn it would pick up two more hikers at the stock camp, lowering the per-person cost for all of us. Two very beat-up looking hikers hopped aboard after an all night brush-bash from the PCT through Three Fools and down to Lightning Creek. The taxi ride was quite fast and we were soon paying our bills at the resort and then walking our way up to Hwy20. I sat around the parking lot while Lindsey biked the highway back to retrieve her car, returning much more quickly than I'd expected. Then a nice drive out, good lunch at Skagit Brewing, and back to civilization!
What an amazing trip. High rocky peak. Long meadow walks. Bear sightings. Lake swimming. Fire lookout. Surprise birthday cake. Good friend. Fun boat ride. Best birthday trip yet!