I originally was going to do the other side of the lake but decided last minute to hike the east bank side to get some more miles in. Permits were still walk up only so I got to marblemount at 7:30 (so so much coffee was had) coming from Seattle. Got to the trail not long after. I hiked to rainbow point campground in about 4 ish hours. The weather turned from being mid 60s to being barely 40s during the day and around 32 expected overnight. So I was the only one at the campground. I met a nice group of people who was coming from farther north of the trail. They let me know someone had seen a bear cub that morning and that the campsite has some friendly deer. Boy did I not understand what they meant by friendly. A couple hours after they left I had deer at my campsite almost all night long. It was a doe, a younger doe and a very young buck with the antlers just started to make some bumps. They were very curious everywhere I went around the campground and around the lake. They would disappear from time to time but I heard them come back a few times throughout the night. The wind coming from the mountains on Saturday was pretty chilly and goes right thru the campground so definitely bring layers. There is only like 2 sites that have some wind protection. Sunday was amazingly calm and it was so nice to watch the sunrise over the mountains and see all the ducks swimming on the lake.

First off - bugs.  Not skeeters but ticks.  We met one hiker on his way out who said he'd picked more than 15 off himself while his buddy had none.  With skepticism we went on.  After a lunch break and a quick visit into the bushes we picked 6 or 8 off of my partner!  Large, my guess would be dog ticks?  Yet those would be the only we saw.

Anyway, pleasant 4 day hike as far as Lightning Creek and back.  The first lake view is at Rainbow Point, 8.9 miles from the trailhead. The lake is crazy low, making water fetching downright dangerous due to the steep, loose round rocks down to and into the lake.  We switched to topping off at the many stream crossings instead.

We passed just a few other backpackers or dayhikers on the trail but had the camps to ourselves - other than the very friendly camp hosts (deer) at each.  The latrines at the high and dry boat-in camps are the cleanest and fanciest I've seen in the backcountry, and those sites have picnic tables and bear lockers.  A kind person installed a paracord bear wire at Roland Creek camp.  There are a few crossings that require some deft footwork, but Roland Creek is a challenge.  Not wanting to cross the rushing water barefoot, we finally found a suitable log a couple hundred feet upstream.  There are a few trees across the trail, largest maybe 18" and of course right at stomach height.

Deep down in the NCNP pages are the instructions to email ahead of time for the free reservations and permit since the WIC doesn't open until May15.

From the East Bank TH off hwy 20, my 2 girlfriends and I backpacked the 3 miles in to Ruby Pasture to spend the night (permit required). After setting up camp, we stopped at a great lookout spot at about the 3.5 mile mark and enjoyed views before heading back to camp for dinner. Gorgeous sunset over the mountain and Ruby Arm. Campsite had a pit toilet. We didn’t pass any other hikers on this part of the trail the entire day until the following day when we saw one couple as we hiked back out to the car. It was a peaceful, quiet trail/campsite to enjoy if you want to be a bit closer to the popular day hikes in the area. 

An incredible backpacking trip filled with rare solitude and a variety of scenery.

 East Bank TH > Water Taxi to Rainbow Point > Lightning Stock Creek Camp > Desolation Peak > Lightning Stock Creek Camp > Hozomeen Lake > Picked up by Water Taxi at Hozomeen campground

 TH: The East Bank TH fills up quickly but this late in the season and on a Thursday we easily found a spot. There is one privy toilet at the TH.

DAY 1: East Bank TH > Water Taxi to Rainbow Point > Lightning Stock Creek Camp

We descended down 1 mile to the Water Taxi pick up spot. We coordinated this in advance with Ross Lake Resort. They are very helpful and give exact directions. Our captain was timely, efficient and knowledgeable.

They dropped us off at Rainbow Point. We chose this start to save time and skip the “repetitive” part of the East Bank trail. The trail is well marked and defined. From here we headed north towards Lightning Stock Creek Camp. The trail is beautiful. It wanders through the words and along cliff edge of the lake. We only saw one hiker and a kayaker on this September Friday.

We had to camp at Lightning Stock Creek Camp bc the regular camp was undergoing privy maintenance. However, they are very close to each other and this camp was stellar. They had one of the cleanest privy’s I’ve ever seen. There were also established fire pit rings. The campsites all had lake access with beautiful mountain views. We swam both days in the lake.

DAY 2: Lightning Stock Creek Camp > Desolation Peak > Lightning Stock Creek Camp

This was a big hiking day but a highlight for sure! You have to make two turns to stay on the correct path. The first mile or so is very mild. Then the switchbacks begin and never let up. For about ¾ or ½ of the trail you are in a forest. After that you start to get stunning views looking south of Ross Lake. With a mile left we reached Desolation Camp. The camp has a pit toilet but no obvious water source. The mountain views only get better with each step. The fall colors were also popping. We reached the peak and the lookout was closed for the season. However, the clouds JUST lifted and we were blessed with a 360, “million-dollar” view!

We only ran across one couple coming up to spend the night at Desolation Camp.

DAY 3: Lightning Stock Creek Camp > Hozomeen Lake

The first part of this day and the 3^rd part of this day were the hardest. Other than that it was a long walk through mushroom paradise where we literally saw NO ONE the whole day.

We began climbing up out of Ross Lake and around Desolation. There the trail levels off. You are immersed in a dense forest until you walk down to the river and pass deerlick and nightmare camps. The bridge by Nightmare camp is still posted as “not safe to walk.” The forest was beautiful and we saw A LOT of mushrooms.

Leaving Nightmare camp we had to reascend and switchbacked until re reached willow lake. There is leveled off. Willow lake was very peaceful but I could see it being pretty buggy in the heat of summer.

We finally made the turn off to Hozomeen Lake. Most of the regular campsites are up and away from the lake, which is a bummer. The “day use” area is the only, and the best, lake side view. And what a view it is! Not only are you looking up at strong mountains but you are surrounded by this peaceful forest. It was so quite we could hear the wings of a dragonfly and make echos throughout the lake. There are pit toilets and bear wires. We were here on a late September Saturday and felt like we were the only people on Earth. We had the whole place to ourselves and saw literally no one on the trail the whole day.

DAY 4: Hozomeen Lake > Picked up by Water Taxi at Hozomeen campground

This was a straightforward descent down to Hozomeen Campground. Once we reached it, we head south on the “road” until it ended. This was the new pickup spot for the Water Taxi when the water level is so low. Again, we saw no one during the whole hike.

Our Water Taxi arrived exactly on time. The ride back was SUPER bumping due to high winds. However, our captain was a pro and we were game for the adventure.

Took the Diablo ferry, Ross Lake Resort truck, and Ross Lake Resort water taxi to May Creek. Stayed two nights. Day hiked the East Bank Trail. Nice single site for six. Outhouse in excellent condition. Bear box was secure. Nice fire pit, but couldn't have a fire due to ban. Plenty of trees for hammocks and a tarp over the picnic table. Great views. Ross Lake is about 30 feet below normal, so the dock was high and dry requiring a little more gear hauling. Working with Ross Lake Resort was easy, and everything was on time. Due to road construction on Hwy. 20, we got our permit online instead of at the Marblemount Ranger Station.