Pacific Crest Trail hike June 21 - 28 Columbia River - Mt. Adams
Trail conditions: First, I hadn't realized ""Bridge of Gods"" has no sidewalk or shoulder - I think I'll wait until I hike the entire PCT before braving that walk. The trail is in great shape from the Columbia to Indian Heaven Wilderness. No blow downs until after Big Huckleberry Mountain, and the tread is in good shape and has been maintained fairly recently in all the lower areas. The only slight problem is vegetation growth - there are areas all along where ferns are coming up through the trail, blueberries encroaching etc. The descent to Rock Creek has a fair amount of this. Just north of Big Huckleberry the vine maples are certainly encroaching. None of this is a serious problem, but it's enough that if you were nice and dry and hiked through after rain or dew, you'd be quite soggy afterwards. Through Indian Heaven Wilderness the trail is mostly an eroded ditch, but not as bad as some I've seen. Patchy snow starts shortly after road 60, ends again around the ""racetrack"" trail, and it is hot and dry climbing up Berry Mtn. There's a 200 foot long, 1 foot deep pond that the trail goes right through the middle of around the wilderness boundary that needs to be waded or circumnavigated. Snow starts again descending Berry Mtn. Blue Lake has some snow around, but some campsites are melted out. Bear Lake is a lovely 60 degrees, and most campsites had melted out there. I'm not sure how the lake got so warm - the air was 50 that morning. But I wasn't going to not swim... Patches of drifted snow continue until the end of Bird Mountain, with nearly solid snow on the NW slope of Bird and NW slope of East Crater. Some of this snow is rather steep, and it gets tiring hiking up and down 6' snowdrifts all the time. Some combination of stiff boots, hiking poles, walking stick, or ice axe can be handy, particularly in cool weather or morning when the snow gets hard. There is a lot of water on the trail, so please slog through it rather than trampling new trails through the meadows and glades. I unclogged a couple of pipes under the trail, and drained a lot of puddles, so it should be a little better now. 2 creeks draining across the trail between East Crater and Bear Lake are roaring down the mountain quite nicely, although by careful choices I managed to hop across both without wading. Others might need to ford them. The more placid outlet creek of Junction Lake is missing a bridge, but again it's possible to rock hop across. Route finding is generally not too difficult, there are enough bare areas that you can always spot the trail again relatively quickly. The only place I missed it entirely was a ridgetop switchback on the north end of Bird Mtn that was buried in a patch of snow, AND the old Cascade Crest Trail continued straight down the ridge. That's about it for substantial snow until you get up to 5400' or so on Mt. Adams. The trail in between is very little used (as was nearly all of the trail I hiked, really). Climbing up Adams there are a number of inconvenient trees down, and patchy snow starting about 4900'. The snow isn't a problem until about 5700', where there is a southward climbing traverse along a lot of steep snow. Walking along sharp snow arretes between tree wells can be tricky at times, too. Finding the trail up to where it meets the Round the Mountain trail at about 5900' isn't too difficult, though, and mostly there were tracks left by weekend hikers to that point. I only went from that junction as far around as trail 112, Divide Camp Trail, as that's where I'd left my car. It's slow going at times, and requires some route finding if you want to more or less follow the trail. Open areas and and meadows and bowls are mostly completely covered with snow, and it's pretty easy to lose the trail, but if you just keep meandering along in the proper direction, you can find it again. There are certainly bare patches, and occasionally you can walk a couple hundred feet mostly on the trail. I managed to miss Sheep Lake entirely somehow, but it's hard to tell what's flat waterlogged meadow, and what's lake at the moment. Most ridges have at least partly melted out, but finding campsites takes some effort - however watching the sun go down on Adams, Rainier, St. Helens and Hood from a nice warm glacially polished lava outcrop was well worth the effort. The snow is fairly hard in the morning (which could be good or bad), and turns into mush later in the day, which makes for slow going. It's interesting (I'm not sure if it's by design) that the trail is very well (perhaps excessively) blazed until I got to around Indian Heaven and north, after which it is essentialy unblazed. And that is, of course, where snow is often present and blazes would be most useful. There are none at all along the Round the Mountain trail. Divide Camp Trail is snow free at the trailhead, and fairly easy going until perhaps 5400'. Higher it is often a snow or water filled rut (or 2 or 3), and is completely covered at the juncture with Round the Mountain (but the signs are above the snow). Right at the Divide Camp side trail the meadows are bare, but only VERY recently melted out, and quite soggy and not yet green. Again, PLEASE try to avoid trampling the meadows or creating new parallel trails when they are wet or snowy. Your feet will recover from being wet, the meadow won't recover from having a trail rut cut through it, at least not in my lifetime. This trail had the worst erosion and trampling of my whole hike, by far. Also, if everyone helped do even a few minutes of trail maintenance a day, kicking rocks off the trail, flicking branches off with a hiking stick, plucking off some intruding vegetation, etc, the trails would soon be much nicer for everyone. It's pretty amazing how many branches fall down on the trail over the course of a winter, and it takes very little time to make a noticeable difference. I'm always amazed at how hundreds of people will take 5 seconds each to walk around a downed log or rock fall that one person can pitch down the slope in 15 seconds. Trails don't maintain themselves - keeping a clear easy tread to walk on takes work, but not much if everyone contributes a little. And many thanks to those who have come out with tools and trimmed some of the woody vegetation and helped level out the tread.
Bugs: Bugs weren't as bad as I was expecting. Some flies here and there, and patchy mosquito populations. No problems at all until right along the edge of Big Lava Bed, where the mosquitoes were pretty bad. Heading up into Indian Heaven they weren't bad at all until Berry Mountain, along which they were quite nasty - I couldn't stop until I was on the shady, windy north edge, even with some repellent on. Then through the rest of the wilderness they were surprisingly limited. Camping at Bear Lake there were some, but not enough to need repellent while basking in the sun. Then they were very bad again descending from Sawtooth Mountain, and patchily from there until road 88. The rest of the trip they weren't bad at all until coming down Divide Camp trail; at the trailhead they were awful. Mosquitos were unpredictable (to me), and places I thought would be bad often weren't, such as meadows and wet areas up high. Perhaps it's still to early for them there. I didn't think that was possible. I used repellent just at the locations mentioned above.
Flowers: There were some summery flowers still blooming along the Columbia River, which was a nice surprise. ""Inside-out-flowers"", which I haven't seen much in Washington, were mostly gone by there, but were blooming at all elevations from there until Big Huckleberry. The hill immediately north of Table Mtn (past the powerlines) had spectacular flower meadows in full bloom, both wet and dry - the best flowers of the whole hike by far - Calochortus subalpinus, Gilia capitata, Brodeia coronaria, phlox, paintbrushes, Anemones, other lilies etc. That was very nice. Nothing else was particularly spectacular, but there lots of flowers of various sorts scattered here and there - assorted lilies, Silene, indian pipes (down low), at least 3 species of penstemon, avalanche lilies (in Indian Heaven and descending trail 112 from Adams), onions, a couple species of Mimulus, blue-eyed mary, white and blue flowered anemones, starflowers, Lewisia & Clarkia (Clarkia only in one place, I can't remember where - south of Wind River somewhere), Hydrophyllum, a couple of Polemonia starting to bloom up high on Adams, some white flowered eriogonums up high, assorted saxifrages, including tolmiei, Sedum, bog orchids, twayblades, several Corallorhiza species were quite widespread, a few Trillia still blooming near snowbanks, rhododendrons blooming just south of Big Lava Bed, vanilla leaf, geraniums, a few Valerian, bunchberry, Asarum caudataum, vetches, larkspurs, Aquilegia, Caltha spp. and of course many asters. And I am of course forgetting or ignoring many. That's all I remember offhand. Nothing much was blooming up high (yet?) in Indian Heaven or Mt. Adams, just some buttercuppy things (Caltha etc), some avalanche (white ones, anyway) lilies, and 1 or 2 pink heather just starting to bloom on rock outcrops on Adams. But there was a nice smattering of flowers throughout most of the hike, many I'm not used to seeing from more northern parts of Washington. Dry rock and moss outcrops (e.g. on Sedum Ridge and on the way up Big Huckleberry) were probably at their peak of flowering and were a nice change from the dark forest. Oh, and beargrass is in full bloom everywhere - it makes the clear cuts much more pleasant.
Animals: One bear just out of Gilette Lake near the Columbia and some elk between Indian Heaven and Adams were the only substantial mammals. Birds were pretty typical, although some Golden Eagles were soaring around ridgetops a couple of times. Herps were the highlight - a number of garter snakes, perhaps 5 rough skinned newts (nearly all south of Wind river), frogs (particularly tree frogs) throughout, but especially in Indian Heaven, toads throughout - I probably saw 40 baby toads the day I hiked out of Indian Heaven. Oh, and spiderwebs - I've rarely hiked so far seeing so few other people, and all day every day I was collecting spiderwebs in my hair, on my glasses, everywhere. I started hoping to see other people just to clear the trail for me. Which reminds me, there were 4 days I did not see anyone else hiking, and I only met 10 other hikers total (4 day hikers, 1 section hiker, and 5 hiking out of Mt. Adams on Sunday afternoon).
All in all, quite a nice hike, with more floral and herpetological diversity than I was expecting, and fewer people. Clear cuts can get annoying, but anyone who uses wood or paper really has no right to complain. Now I want to go back to the higher areas after the snow is gone and more flowers are blooming...