Started with the water taxi up Ross Lake to the Desolation trailhead - a great deal if you can split it with other people! Desolation was in fine shape - a good trail, water about half-way up (and some at the top)... Plus, the berry picking is good & will be for a few weeks probably. The lookout was in great shape. It was locked when we were there, but I'm told that someone is manning (or ""womanning"") the lookout for the rest of the summer. Spent the first night at Lightning Creek with the boating crowd. Next day, we headed up Devils dome, etc... The bugs were only bad below 4000ft & near Ross Lake (which is shallow & warm). The trail is in magnificent shape all the way from the border of the Pasayten to the other trailhead. The FS did a TON of work (or contracted it out apparently). Everything was cut back / brushed a good 4 feet from the trail - should be good for a few years to come. Views of jack mountain were amazing... although it was a bit cloudy & hazy. Had a hail-storm in the evening which quite possibly was responsible for killing a lot of pesky bugs. We spent the next night at Devils Pass (I think), there was a trail to a spring just below the pass. Next day was more great tread along jackita ridge, through Devils park, etc. There were some very steep bits of trail in this section, but nothing dangerous/slippery for those with poles. Camped just below Crater Lake - another superb spot. We climbed to the lower lookout location on Crater Mtn. Take the trail with the arrow made of branches, even though the other trails look more promising (You'll see what I mean when there). Didn't try the old, higher lookout trail, but from the ""becky guide"" description, it sounds rather straight-forward. If you're using out-of-date USGS maps, note that the trailhead on hwy 20 is shown in the wrong place, if you're following this trail in the same direction as I'm describing, cross the log bridge when you get near the trailhead. All in all, a great trip with continuous amazing views of the North Cascades. If you love mountains, hike this trail... and write the FS to thank them for supporting trail work! -jj