Hiked to the Desolation Lookout on Desolation Peak via the East Bank Trail on Ross Lake. Did the trip in 3 days camping at Lighting Creek Camp on Ross Lake the 1st and 2nd nights. Trail conditions on the East Bank Trail where great with no real problems all the way to the junction with the trail going up to the lookout. The trail heading up to Desolation Lookout had some trees across the trail and is slightly overgrown in some places but otherwise not too bad. The trail heading up to Desolation gains elevation quickly and I was happy to have hit the trail in the early morning hours beating the afternoon sun. The East Bank Trail was easy hiking with a heavy pack since it's relatively flat. It's a 17 mile haul to Lighting Creek Camp from Highway 20 but I was able to cover the distance in less than 6 hours each way. I didn't bump into any other hikers on the trail during the entire trip until I was coming down the Desolation Peak trail from the lookout. I didn't bump into anyone at all on the East Bank Trail going in or out. It seems like most people enjoy this area using the water taxi service or multi-day canoeing or kayaking trips on Ross Lake. The views from the lookout are stunning and it was easy to spend a couple of hours up there. This is a hike that's a must do on a clear day. Bring some Kerouac poetry with you as the views from the lookout are inspiring.

désōlātiōn- (s. of désōlātiō) abandonment - verb, noun or adjective, the reality is, this is one HOT hike in the blazing sun and you'll feel like you've been abandoned at the doorstep of Hades! (Note to self: DO NOT start a 4500' gain/13 mile hike at almost Noon on a 96 degree day! Dumb, very dumb! Joanna recommended this hike, because it was likely to be snow-free and after our miserable, failed attempt last weekend on Lookout Mtn., we wanted an overnight that wouldn't have us lugging crampons and ice axes. We knew it was likely to be warm, but we planned an early start - good idea, because there are only 5 permits for the camping area where we were headed - Lightening Creek on Ross Lake. As of late Friday afternoon, none of the five had been taken - but there were no guarantees and you have to show up in person to get the permit. So we agreed to meet at the Marblemount National Park Service Visitor Center to pick up the permit by 7:00 a.m.(!) That meant, we had to leave Seattle at 5:00 a.m. Fortunately, Trail Pair (Bob and Kolleen) got to the Visitor Center a little before 7:00 a.m. - there already was a line-up. And, by the time Bad Dog (Joanna), Middle E (Barry) and the driver (Suzanne) (plus two dogs - Holly and Gus) arrived at about 7:15 a.m., the permits were gone! Bob and Kolleen were having a little breakfast - we had plenty of time to get to the boat landing for our 9:45 a.m. pick-up. We opted for taking the water taxi (Arrange through Ross Lake Resort). It's $100 each way for up to 6 people and 2 dogs. It's either that, or walk 16 miles EACH way to Lightening Creek. If you have the taxi drop you off at the Desolation trailhead - it's $110 each way, but there is no where to camp here - you would either need to take your stuff up about 3000' to the upper basin campsite or walk back to Lightening Creek 2.1 miles. We arrived at the parking area (it's signed and located between milepost 134 and 135 on Highway 20) at about 8:30 a.m. This would be Gus' first backpacking/overnight trip. He sure didn't seem to mind the pack (maybe he knew his food was in the bags!) It's a mile walk from the parking area to the boat landing. You just call the resort and let them know you're there (a phone is near the landing for you to use). Soon, Carol or ""driver"" was there to get us. We knew it was going to be hot, but we had no idea just how hot. There were a couple of folks at the campsite, but they were heading out, so we had the pick of the spots and found one close to the lake and with enough room for all of us. After setting up camp, we got started on the trail. You have to head south (back towards the horse camp area/lakeshore trail) in order to pick up the trail towards Desolation. It was a little after 11:00 a.m. and already hot - and we were in the trees! The first 2.1 miles contour the lakeshore and the trail is fairly gentle - almost more down than up on this stretch. You cross two water possibilities. The second one, about 1.5 miles into the trail, is the best with the greatest volume of water - and pretty cool. The trail is still mostly in the trees, with occasional views. In a little more than a half-mile, we reached the junction with the Desolation trailhead from the Lake. We knew the grade would start getting steeper, but we would be in the trees for a while. There were quite a few flowers in bloom and something I call ""sea foam"" that has a pungent aroma. Here are some we ran across. After the junction, the trail climbs. Both of the dogs were getting really hot. Gus had to stop several times to just take a breather and get some water. Fortunately, I had plenty of water for him and for me. After the junction, there are two more spots of running water. The first is nothing more than spring out of the ground. And the second one has actual running water. But this is when you are still in the trees, so be aware, TAKE PLENTY OF WATER! Because from here on up, there is no more water - with the exception of the snow patches that we would run into at 5400'. Just before we reached the last water, Joanna and I were behind the others and we had just crossed over some blowdown, when we heard a cracking noise and Joanna instinctively ran up the trail, when a fraction of a second later, a couple of skinny trees crashed across the trail! We had no idea why, but they barely missed her! We stopped for a lunch/snack break just before leaving the trees - it was almost 2:00 p.m. by now and we still had another 2 miles and about 1800' to go. It was HOT! We met two guys who were on their way down - they were staying at the Resort and wisely started the hike much earlier in the morning! Barry was well-ahead of the rest of us - he waited for us at the upper basin campsite area. Here was where we found our first snow. It's a nice camping spot, but won't have any water once the snow has melted. We went back to the main trail heading up to the lookout and crossed a few snow patches - they were actually quite welcome, but they won't be there for long. You basically are walking up a ridge as you head to the lookout - you can't see the trail, but it's there. Before you make the final 1/2 mile, you will drop down about 100' then regain it for the last push to the top. This was a hang-out for Jack Kerouac many years ago. We took our time relaxing on top - it was a bit cooler here, but still toasty - we sat on the north/shady side of the lookout. Of course, we had to get in the obligatory ""view shots."" By now, it was after 4:00 p.m. It had taken us 4 1/2 hours to go 6.6 miles and it was still blazing hot. We weren't sure how long it would take us to get back, but we needed to get started. Just below the summit, we ran into a solo hiker - Randy from Boulder - who had found a spot on the snow to call home for a night or two. The route back seemed sooooo long (and, did I mention it was HOT? For some strange reason, Gusto was a really BAD DOG this trip. When I did allow him off-leash he took off. Usually a quick ""Gusto"" and a whistle and he is stopped dead in his tracks, but not this time! Joanna and I concluded that he wanted to join the BDC (Bad Dog Club). Soooo, he was leash-restricted the rest of the way back to camp and for the duration of the trip. All of us hit the lake when we got back - mainly to cool off and to clean up before dinner. It was cooling down some, but still short sleeve weather. Forrtunately, there weren't many bugs around! There was a little excitement. A couple of young guys asked if we had a cell phone. Well, of course, there is no reception. It seems a teen-age girl somehow missed the turn to Hozomeen Lake to meet up with her group - and walked another 7+ miles and wound up at the horse camp area of Lightening Creek. I don't know if they hooked up with the Park Ranger or not - but I can imagine that the folks at Hozomeen were distraught! Why she was hiking by herself, I don't know. Then, a guy came into our camp and asked about the water taxi and if they could go out when we did the next morning. It seems his group had taken the lakeshore trail and one of the hikers injured an ankle and couldn't make it out on foot. (They would end up deciding to go out later.) Figuring that all was ok, it was time to get back to the business at hand. Anticipating a party on the lake, Barry and the driver each brought a bottle of wine - Joanna fearing that there wouldn't be enough to go around, stopped on our way through Marblemount and got a couple of little bottles (just in case). Barry was in charge of the party. Sadly, since all of us were so dehydrated, we were quite restrained in our celebration! It was a lovely evening, and quite comfortable for sleeping. Bob didn't suffer the horrible cramps of earlier outings - must have been the dark chocolate - but there were complaints of headaches due to the dehydration. We rolled out about 7:00 a.m. Sunday, ate breakfast (Gus suckered us into the ""throw the stick"" game in the lake before the boat arrived.) and Holly chased chipmunks! And, sure enough, right at 8:30 a.m. there was our taxi. By now, it was already getting warm. It's a 20 minute boat ride. And then, the 450' back UP to the cars. We were packed up and ready to hit the road by 9:30 a.m.! Stats: 5100' gain; 15.5 miles and, it was HOT! Great trip! Fun group! Don't start this little outing at mid-day on a HOT day!

Leaving Lightning Creek campsite at 7 a.m., we 60s folk spent a long, lovely day (10 hours) on the trail and at the lookout. (Hiking from Lightning Creek adds four miles to the 9.4 roundtrip to the top.) We counted 14 people and one dog on the trail that day. Sunny but with a cool breeze at the top, moderate bugs, berries either not quite ripe or already eaten. The spring about halfway up still provided cool, clear water, but we had brought our own.

Trail has 3 small blowdowns to step over. Water at 2/3 point is slowing down and will dry up soon.We camped at Desolation camp. The famed lookout looked shabby and run down and the Park Service has left the interior a mess. To bad. I have visited the lookout when it was occupied and it was emaculate and homey with a complete library of Kerouac's books. Still this is the best hike in Washington.

Beautiful day on a climb that I had wanted to make for years, this time as part of an Outward Bound expedition. We canoed from Cat Island to the Desolation trailhead, and the group headed up the trail very early in the morning. Great wildflowers on the way up, spectacular meadows. We spoke with the ranger at the lookout at the top, and read aloud from Kerouac. Amazing view north into Canada, and all surrounding peaks. The trail going back down is infamously deceiving--just when you think you are getting close to the lake, it still is a long way off.