Ok folks, get out your White Pass Green Trails map and follow along! If you hike in this vicinity, you'll want your map handy to stay on the right trail, or to explore the area without getting lost, as a lot of trails intersect in this area. In a nutshell, here's the route: Starting at White Pass Campground, taking the PCT north to Trail #1156, Dumbbell Lake. Scrambled up Cramer Mountain above the lake to camp on the ridge. Next day, back to the PCT, heading north to Twin Sisters trail #980, to Tumac Mountain trail #44, to Shellrock Lake Trail #1142, Cramer Lake Trail #1106, and finally Dark Meadow trail #1107 back to the PCT and 1.3 miles back to the parking area at White Pass Campground.
Day one, to Cramer Mountain above Dumbbell Lake, was 6.5 to 7 miles, the last 700' in elevation gain being bushwhacking up Cramer Mountain, carrying lots of extra water for me and my dogs. The summit itself didn't offer a good place to camp, but I found a nice flat spot on the ridge on the western shoulder. Great views of Mt Adams, the Goat Rocks, Mt Rainier, and the various peaks east of Chinook Pass. It was also a wonderful reprieve from the mosquitoes! I encountered a large herd of elk while descending the slope the next morning.
Day two, the big loop north to Tumac, etc., was 20.5 miles, with the only significant elevation gain being Tumac Mountain, which was also the only part of the trail not in the shade. Again, great views from the top of Tumac. The bugs, however, were wicked! Very lovely!
All of the descriptions of the hike to Tumac Mountain that I had read approached from the north, but I wanted to start at White Pass. A large part of this hike is in the trees, but there are some splendid views at times, and a lot of time spent in high alpine meadows, skinny trees and lots and lots of lakes. (and lots of mosquitoes!)
The PCT portions are in fairly good shape, with a few areas mucked up by horses, but clear of all blow-downs. The route got quite ""horsey"" on the other trails, but tolerable and clear of blowdowns except the Dark Meadows trail (#1107) which had a lot of trees down. There is a bridge out on trail #1106, just north of Dog Lake, requiring fording the river. The water was not deep, but the rocks could be slick. Day one, I saw one person on a horse, and two day hikers. Day two, I saw no one! The Twin Sisters Lakes are very beautiful and look like a good place to camp (but it looks like it could be a popular horse camp, too). And Tumac Mountain was surprisingly lovely and interesting.
All in all, it was a good time. I would recommend doing this after the mosquitoes have cleared out, though.