The notice on an earlier WTA hiking guide page for Cutthroat Pass via PCT stated: ‘The Rainy Pass north parking lot will be closed Sept 8-25 for trailhead repairs.’ When we first passed it on Monday, Sept. 29^th, and now approached it again on Wednesday, Oct. 1, the access road to the trailhead lot was still blocked. We noted that the left lane of the road had been repaved, but the right had not. We hiked the extra third of a mile to the trailhead and spoke to one of the construction workers. The asphalt crew was late as they had to finish a paving job at an airport in Wenatchee. Paving work was now in progress again. They would finish paving the other lane by Thursday. The trailhead road would finally open on Friday, the 3^rd (same for the Maple Pass lot across the Hwy 20,) just in time for the pre-weekend crowds.

This five-mile route up to Cutthroat Pass follows the Pacific Crest Trail which means that it is well cared for and evenly graded, gaining about 400 feet per mile to the pass. The first 3.5 miles are mostly in the forest. The monotony of that section is punctuated by several picturesque creek crossings. By the time the trail breaks out to the big views and nearby subalpine larch, you are so ready for it. The last 1.5 miles to the pass are the very best part of the route and the big reason to do this hike.

As we ascended the switchbacks ever higher in a magnificent cirque of larch trees. I noted that this trail features stands of larch that seem more robust than those on the Maple Pass Trail. The larch needles, while not yet fully gold, varied from a subtle lime green to soft yellow. We found it even more interesting to be among them in this transitional stage than at their peak. The whole scene seemed to me to be pure magic.

As we crested the pass, we experienced a ‘wow!’ moment as we suddenly encountered a panoramic view of jagged peaks that populated the eastern skyline. As we paused to look around, we noticed dramatic gray clouds drifting above, alternately revealing and then obscuring the nearby summits. The pass was mostly rocky and barren, with few trees, but broad and expansive enough to host many hikers. Today we saw few others but were soon surprised to encounter five horse packers slowly moving through. We had seen extensive horse poop on the trail, but had not expected a close encounter.

The drama and the dynamic of the ominously dark drifting clouds provided a photographic opportunity that clear blue skies do not. I set up my tripod and began to shoot. I took enough frames to assemble one spherical panorama at the pass and called it good. After all, it was damn cold up there and I wanted to feel warm again. We reluctantly left the pass, said goodbye as we passed the magnificent larch of the switchbacks, and finally trudged down that final tedious wooded section to the trailhead. GAIA GPS stats with additional distance to trailhead: 10.9 miles round trip, 2,064 ft, gain.

The link to the panorama from the pass is posted below. For the most immersive viewing experience, select the full-screen mode and scroll around.

Note: This trip report is a bit late, as we stayed in the area all week, doing Cutthroat Pass again from the Cutthroat Lake side and then visiting Winthrop before our return.

If you have the opportunity to do a super busy larch hike early in the season on a random slightly rainy Wednesday, take it! Today was amazing. Saw only 13 people all day including 2 PCT through hikers. The trail is in great condition. The parking lot is still closed but there’s a PCT re-route on highway 20 that’s easy (but a little steep). We parked on the side of the highway. The pit toilet at the trailhead was open and clean and fully stocked. It looks like they’re almost done with the work there, it looks like it’s going to be so nice! We had a little rain off and on the whole hike but the clouds were high and the views were amazing. The streams are still low so easy to rock hop. Some larches are fully yellow but a lot still have a lime green hue to them and a lot of the blueberries at the pass were bright red and there were some ripe ones left. It was very cold and windy at the pass so we quickly ate our lunch and headed back down. Just as we were going down the sun poked through and illuminated the larches for the best views of the day! We could not have asked for a better day in the North Cascades!

Backpacked northbound from Rainy Pass (Cutthroat Pass Trailhead) to Hart’s Pass. Please note that the Rainy Pass (and nearby Maple Pass) parking lots are closed for repaving and have not yet reopened. Date is uncertain and may be prolonged due to the government shutdown. We parked along Highway 20. The PCT reroute is approximately a quarter mile north of the turnoff to the usual parking lot. 

From the Rainy Pass trailhead to Cutthroat Pass, you can see that the larches are starting to turn. It is still early in the season, and these will likely peak in two weeks. There are stunning views. We continued northbound and turned off the PCT to the Snowy Lakes trail. There is a clean toilet near lower Snowy Lake (follow the cairns), and we camped at upper Snowy Lake.

The following day we retraced our steps and continued northbound on the PCT. Most of this section consists of forest. The last reliable water source prior to Hart’s Pass is Brush Creek.

FYI — The road down from Hart’s Pass to Mazama is rocky, narrow, and winding — quite harrowing in a few sections. As usual in Washington there was a sedan at the trailhead, but a high clearance vehicle (and a spare tire) would be recommended. I would not attempt this drive if it was dark, stormy, or snowing.

It felt unbelievable and almost inappropriate that I hadn’t been to the North Cascades this year, so I decided to seize the opportunity before larch madness begins.

After sleeping in and driving for a few hours, I arrived at the trailhead to light drizzle. Well, not “at” the trailhead as it turned out to be closed for construction, together with restrooms - fenced off with “federal offense to trespass” signs to even better signify it was closed indeed. Cars were lined up along the highway for less than half a mile in each direction, which I thought was moderate given the season. I was able to get almost a prime spot when someone left.

While crowds were heading to Maple Pass, I followed “detour” signs to PCT and Cutthroat Pass, and soon entered blissful quietness of this trail that seems to get almost zero attention.

The trail is a mild climb - common and highly appreciated feature of PCT - and being under thick canopy was beneficial with on and off rain. A couple creek crossings posed risk of getting feet wet, so I was thankful for my waterproof boots, although I’d have definitely found my dry way on rocks if I didn’t have them.

At a bit higher elevation, blueberries begin. They are still hanging in, high in quantity and quality, but their days are definitely counted. Some are drying up, some are getting mushy and taste as if they can affect your BAC level. Don’t blueberry and drive! Anyway, there’s still some left that can be enjoyed. And even if there’s no more delight for stomach, crimson foliage is still a delight for eyes.

Next up, larches kicked in. They are in their “faded green, barely yellow” phase right now; not quite there yet but about to burst.

It was windy at the pass, but I still detoured to the right (south) to explore an offshoot trail - didn’t go too far though as views didn’t seem to improve (my usual lame excuse when I’m tired to push further). Two almost ripe-golden larches were found at the pass.

After a quick lunch, I turned around and returned to the trailhead uneventfully. As I was passing restrooms, I saw people using them, but didn’t dare to do that myself - being charged with a federal offense for criminal use of outhouse was not in my plans today.

Stats: 4 hr 15 min, with 2 hr up, 30 min at the pass, and 1 hr 45 min down.

This hike is stunning! Arrived at 10 am Friday morning to plenty of cars parked along the road but no trouble finding a spot. The larches are turning, still mostly green but next weekend should probably be hitting peak larch madness! Most huckleberries were turning into raisins but there were still some ripe ones. We saw maybe 15 thru hikers who were so cool to talk to, they were stoked to be on the final stretch to Canada!